caliper guide bushings

 

I was due for a new set of shocks recently, so went with the Bilsteins and did the torsion bar raise at the same time. The lift took about 30 minutes. All you need it a 1-1/16" socket (cheater pipe is helpful), tape measure, and jack. Someone on here has a really good post on it with pictures.

 

My 07 Adventure is still on its original shocks, no extensions, zero issues.

I've got 40+ year old cars & motorcycles with original shocks, if they ain't broke, no need to replace anything. I guess some people just wake up and decide to shop for shocks, whether they need them or not?

 

Do check your front bump stops while you are under there, both of mine had ripped.

 

Same here. OE shocks, 70k miles, no spacers with lift, no issues thus far. I periodically inspect each to make sure they haven't failed. While driving, you can almost always detect when a shock needs replaced. Ususally they are either functioning well, or they fail completely.

While a spacer isn't a bad idea by any means, I didn't feel the need to add a shock spacer up front due to the torsion crank lift only taking the shock less than an inch out of the midline of it's cycle. I don't do much high speed off-roading, so not a noticable issue.

Keep in mind that the torsion lift doesn't change the overall travel of the front suspension at all. It just changes where the truck sits at ride height within that travel. Downtravel is still limited by a metal stop at the A-arm. Uptravel is still limited by the rubber dampener and the shock, which hasn't moved. Theoretically after cranking, you have slightly moved the "sweet spot" of the shock, but it will still be limited by the dampener and metal stop.

 

...and thus adding a longer travel aftermarket shock like the Bilsteins won't get you any more usable travel because the A-arm travel is still limited by the A-arm/dampener design.

That being said, going to a shorter than OE travel shock, like some models of Rancho's for instance, will actually reduce your travel and put all of the limiting stress on the shock itself rather than the A-arm, which will eventually lead to an early demise of the shock.

 

Xlr8n, I will have to disagree on a few items above.

It has been proven that the OEM shock WILL limit the droop of the front end. The HUNNER 1/2" nut trick or longer travel shocks WILL produce more droop getting you closer to the travel limiter on the droop end of things. Travel is limited by the progressive dampeners not the shock. If you removed the progressive dampeners your lower A-arm our contact the mounting cup.

 

Well if it helps any I'm selling my "leave" 5100's shocks. Less then 10K on them for $130.

 

Feel free to disagree.
On my specific rig, the A arm only allows the set amount of droop/down-travel whether the shock is bolted up or left off. Perhaps yours is different.

I have my dampeners adjusted with a spacer block to make contact at ride height as designed by OE, so up-travel is a moot point as I have no intention of running without the dampeners.

Bottom line, the factory shocks haven't inhibited my ability to perform on or off road with the torsion crank lift I've done, so the nut/spacer hasn't been an issue to me. Over 40k miles as it currently sits with no suspension or handling problems.
But, as I clearly stated earlier, it sure doesn't hurt to get the ride height closer to the midline of the shock travel. Mine just isn't impacted by having it off by 3/4" or thereabouts.

 

I finally took it to the shop today to have them turn the keys for me... They put it up on the lift and looked at the screws or whatever and they told me that they are already cranked all the way...

So... Do they have no clue what they are doing or are they really already cranked all the way... see picture in OP...