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Hummer h3 shuts off when reaching certain temperature

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Old Jun 5, 2024 | 05:11 AM
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Default Hummer h3 shuts off when reaching certain temperature

Hello everyone , i have a 3.5l 2006 118.000 miles hummer . I have seen a lot of people having the exact symptoms and same problem but never found how they fixed it . I changed my two valves in the first cylinder because became larger than normal and the car was working with 4 cylinders , after i did my engine work the car started running smoothly , but when it reaches 90 degree celsius tenprature or the normal temperature it shuts off when i stop , in one obd it appears code of o2 sensors and in another obd it appears P0017 code, I empathise that before engine work none of the sensors had problems , before the valves car was running smoothly , please help, thank you
 
Old Jun 5, 2024 | 09:00 AM
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Retrace your steps. Something must have been overlooked.
 
Old Jun 5, 2024 | 09:47 AM
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Change your camshaft position sensor like the code is telling you. The O2 sensor is not going to shut off the truck. And X2 on what Happy Hummer said.

Are you still trying to use the crappy azzed OEM Battery Terminal Connectors? If so, hack them off and replace with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand. First mod to be done to every H3/H3T.
 
Old Jun 6, 2024 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Doc Olds
Change your camshaft position sensor like the code is telling you. The O2 sensor is not going to shut off the truck. And X2 on what Happy Hummer said.

Are you still trying to use the crappy azzed OEM Battery Terminal Connectors? If so, hack them off and replace with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand. First mod to be done to every H3/H3T.
i have seen other people in this forum that have changed every sensor but still the same ,
 
Old Jun 6, 2024 | 08:56 AM
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Yeah, there are other people that have posted things on this forum that could not change a lightbulb without help too. If you do not want to take my suggestion, do like the others that do not bother to diagnose before throwing parts at an unknown problem.

Your P0017 on GM vehicles means Crankshaft Position – Exhaust Camshaft Position Not Plausible.... means that the PCM believes the difference between the crankshaft position and the camshaft position exceeds 9 degrees after your engine enters closed loop = full operating temp and the PCM looks for O2 and Timing data (lots of other stuff too) from the sensors. Before that, in open loop it is running on its programmed default and apparently has no issue.

You could have a bad Camshaft Position Sensor, bad Crankshaft Position Sensor, bad Reluctor wheel, bad Camshaft Actuator Solenoid (which on the early H3s was known to get clogged with bits of the disintegrating oil screen and crud), worn/broken timing chain tensioners, improper timing (as in like when whoever put it back together), or just faulty wiring to the Cam or Crank Position sensors. I would assume that when the valve work was done, the tensioners were at least inspected?

I would do the easy stuff first, check wiring. Then pull the Camshaft Actuator Solenoid..... Followed by replacing the Camshaft Position Sensor, followed by the Crank Position sensor.





Good luck.
 
Old Jun 13, 2024 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc Olds
Yeah, there are other people that have posted things on this forum that could not change a lightbulb without help too. If you do not want to take my suggestion, do like the others that do not bother to diagnose before throwing parts at an unknown problem.

Your P0017 on GM vehicles means Crankshaft Position – Exhaust Camshaft Position Not Plausible.... means that the PCM believes the difference between the crankshaft position and the camshaft position exceeds 9 degrees after your engine enters closed loop = full operating temp and the PCM looks for O2 and Timing data (lots of other stuff too) from the sensors. Before that, in open loop it is running on its programmed default and apparently has no issue.

You could have a bad Camshaft Position Sensor, bad Crankshaft Position Sensor, bad Reluctor wheel, bad Camshaft Actuator Solenoid (which on the early H3s was known to get clogged with bits of the disintegrating oil screen and crud), worn/broken timing chain tensioners, improper timing (as in like when whoever put it back together), or just faulty wiring to the Cam or Crank Position sensors. I would assume that when the valve work was done, the tensioners were at least inspected?

I would do the easy stuff first, check wiring. Then pull the Camshaft Actuator Solenoid..... Followed by replacing the Camshaft Position Sensor, followed by the Crank Position sensor.





Good luck.
sorry doc , i have diagnosed it again and the code was p0171 not p0017
 
Old Jun 14, 2024 | 09:50 AM
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A Too Lean code (P0171) can cause stalling just like you described. The easy stuff, look for a vacuum leak as some unknown amount of air is entering your intake system from somewhere, unless your MAF is dirty, bad, or the wiring to it is compromised. Inspect that, clean it with MAF Cleaner if all else fails.

Check the Intake Manifold fasteners are torqued to spec. If you are running the OEM Intake, look under the Resonator Box to make sure the "S" shaped hose is connected to the bottom of the box and Valve Cover Port nice and snug, no cracks etc... Those are the most common simple leaks.
 
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