Evan, you just found the biggest shortcoming of the H3. To go any more than the mild lift from a Tbar crank and shackles in the back then you are looking at a Rancho lift or going full custom. There isnt much middle ground like with Jeeps.

 

Its crazy because you either spend $0 or like $300 or $1500 to $3000. Ive already got new keys on there but my front is sitting at 22.5 no joke. Its like that lift kit didn't doanything except for prevent my 35s from rubbing at full lock. Can I still crank my Tbars up even after the new keys have bee put on?

 

Yes, that's what you are supposed to do.

New Keys or OEM Keys, doesn't matter. You need to turn the bolt that raises the front to get to the measurement that you want.

 

wtf... so I really did wast money ($220 including install). Tell me that getting the new re-indexed keys actually somehow made it easier to crank the torsion bar or made it less dangerous or something. The kit also came with shock extenders.

 

We can tell you that...but it would be lying. You can get the same amount of lift from an H3 with or without keys. The H3 is one of the rare OEM vehicles in which you can lift the front to level with no mods. With or without the keys, 23.75" is the highest you want to take the H3. Crank your bar bolts anywhere up to that point and get an alignment and enjoy. Yes, you wasted the money,.... well I guess you got some $220 shock extensions, but don't sweat it. Life is too short. At least you didn't pay $500??

 

Ha ha true. The funny thing is, before I had the new keys put on, my tires rubbed at full lock but now they dont BUT I only notice about an inch in lift. Im still sitting at 22.3 ish inches from center hub to fender lip. and the back of my truck is at 24.5 so I dont know if Im measuring wrong or my ride had a serious rake to it.

 

In stock form they all had a serious rake. Part of the design of the H3. Good news is you still have room to lift if you'd like. Just be sure to get the alignment afterward.

If you lift more and there is a gap under your dampener, a spacer installed between the LCA and dampener will help with any resulting brake dive and get the ride quality back to near normal. I used some HD rubber about 1/2" thick which I adhered to the LCA.

 

So a crank, alignment, bump stops and possibly new shocks will put my ride at about 24 inches on the front an read ends of the car with a decent ride. Looks like I have some work to do then. Thank you for your help.

 

Dont go up to 24", thats just gonna wear out your CV joints and steering rack too fast as well as riding a little funny. Drop it down 1/4-1/3" and it will be good. You dont need new shocks afterward, unless yours are shot. The stock shocks top out about 1/2" before the metal hits on the suspension arms, if you arent looking for all the a available travel possible offroad you wont notice. The other question is- do you want your internal shock stops to limit travel or metal on metal on the LCA?

 

deebocubs I like your h3, I'm looking to do the same lift and whatnot with mine, just with different rims and tires
keep it up man, looks sweet!