I took the 3 bolts off and the axle nut. Is there anything else that needs to come off for the hub to come loose? Any suggestions? 2006 h3

 

Did you remove the CV (half shaft)?
If they haven't been apart for a long time the CV splines will be very difficult to separate from the hub.

Google is your friend also, videos!
https://www.google.com/search?q=humm...w=1745&bih=961

 

Rust and corrosion holds those hub assemblies on tight, There's a few ways to break them loose. I removed the whole knuckle and pressed them out.

 

Before you start the job, best to spray the Hub to Knuckle contact with penetrating oil, couple times a day, for the day before and day of the job.

Cut and paste of a post I made at CHO trying to help with the Hub Removal Trick...

"I can shed some light on how to get the hubs off. Like New England, they salt the dodo out of MI roads over winter.

Start with Kroil!! and then more Kroil. I know Bunger is familiar with that stuff.

I took the wheel off and soaked the caliper where it seats over the hub, and the hub bolts from the back. Let it sit over night in the garage Friday night by the fridge. The fridge you say... where the beer is, ..... so I sprayed more every couple beers or so. Then used a long 15MM double boxed end wrench and busted the 3 hub bolts loose. Sprayed some Kroil in there and enjoyed my evening.

Anyways, next morning took the caliper and rotor off, sprayed the dodo out of where the hub goes through the steering knuckle. Gave it a few whacks with a dead blow hammer = nothing.

Here is "The Hub Removal Trick".
Back out the hub bolts but do not remove. I did the right side, so where the front of the 3 hub bolts is, there is the sway bar connector mount on the lower A Arm. Configure some combination of 15MM socket and drive extensions (I uses a std socket super short 3/8 extension, and a 3-4" 3/8 wobble extension). Jacked up the opposite side of the truck so that front tire was of the ground. Start the engine, turn the wheel to the Right a bit. Go back to the hub bolt w/ socket and extensions and wedge the extensions up against the sway bar mount on the lower A Arm. Go back to the steering wheel and turn it Left a little bit which pushes the socket against the wheel hub bolt and forces the hub loose. Turn the wheel to the Right a bit.

Then hammer on the other side of the hub lug ring to get it to move. Back out the hub bolts further. Re-adjust the hub bolt with socket and extension set up to back it out farther, wedge it against the sway bar mount, turn the wheel to the Left again (moves hub further). Hammer other side, repeat as necessary. Go slow back and forth. Remove the hub bolts, then it will pop off.

Basically use the steering rack as a hydraulic press, carefully pressing the hub off by using its mounting bolt(s) wedged against a solid fixed suspension piece. Tiny increments of just easy turning of the steering wheel. Takes like 3-4 back and forth episodes of adjusting the bolt out further and hammering.

Smarter, not harder. "

 

Like Doc sais, but if it don't comes off, you may have to hit like me, few times hard by turning the old hub few times too. Hit it from behind and spray lots off penetrating rust oil. It will come off.

 

Separate it from the cv axle by using an air hammer with a pointed bit, aimed at the center of the axle, pushing it inwards. After that, if still stuck, hit the hub flange with a hammer, outwards. Make sure to take time cleaning out all the corrosion and resurface the mount so the new hub mounts true. GL

 

I can confirm that Doc Olds' "The Hub Removal Trick" actually worked to free the a 15 year old seized hub. I haven't gotten it off just yet, but this technique was the most effective. Just be careful where you brace the extension on the suspension to be sure not to damage it. I had to use hardened socket extension, the regular bent immediately, that power steering must be powerful.