Has anyone installed a solid aluminum radiator by Miahimoto?

The plastic aluminum GM radiator is weeping coolant at the mechanical crimp seams joining the two different materials.

I believe a solid welded aluminum radiator is a good investment as she is a keeper, but I'm not sure these universal fit radiators will fit without some mounting mods. Any advice?

I have a 2009 standard H3T, coolest truck in the known universe.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/mishimoto-aluminum-performance-radiators/p3090035.jcwx?filterid=c1654d18980u0j1

 

One part suppliers mistakenly listed the Mishimoto Automotive solid aluminum radiator as fitting the H3 when they only make one that fits the H2. Glad I did not order it.

I did contact several Aluminum radiator fabricators with more negatives on H3 products so far. I'll give it another day hours for responses.

It is likely I will be putting back in the OEM short life design plastic radiator and add the burden of radiator leak monitoring to my preventative maintenance schedule.

For info: radiator new part number GM # 19153663. It lists as fitting the Canyon, Colorado, H3, and H3T. I think the OEM will have better internal corrosion protection vs. the cheap China models to help prevent coolant from getting into the transmission. These still have a design problems in that the plastic and metal materials expand at different rates when heated which will fatigue the sealing gasket and leak over time.

 

Just ordered a solid aluminum radiator from "Ron Davis Racing Products, Inc."

They are road proven in use and exact fit for the H3 and H3T ready to ship. Expensive but a good investment in safeguarding your engine and transmission. No more plastic radiator worry for my H3T.

 

Whats the price and model number?

 

The Ron Davis Radiators POC below has H3 100% aluminum radiators ready to ship. The price is around $1000.00 shipped with the cap and transmission cooler fittings.

The fabrication craftsmanship is looks excellent near nuclear work quality. They have been making these 100% aluminum radiators a while for the Hummer H3's and the have had durability test operating time is the field in harsh environments.

I found a couple of other custom radiator manufacturers cheaper, but none have the vehicle field hours Ron Davis has with H3 radiator. They all need my old radiator shipped to them to use as a template to fabricate there product. I did promised one of them my old radiator anyway so one day we have a second source.

I'm taking pictures during the install to post later. While she's apart, I am restoring all the hoses, belt, and flushing the systems as the prior owner looks to have missed the routine radiator flushing by the brownish color of the drained coolant. Of note, the long lower hose at the engine block requires removing the left tire to reach the hose clamp through the fender well.

POC:

Bill Williamson
Ron Davis Racing Products, Inc.
7334 North 108th Avenue
Glendale, AZ. 85307
Tel- 623-877-5000 Ext.16
Fax- 623-877-5001
bill@rondavisradiators.com
Ron Davis aluminum radiators for racing, offroad, performance street car, and other custom applications

 

Wait one thousand bucks for them?

 

If you love your H3 truck and want to keep it, this is the best radiator period.

Government Motors is still making the so called improved plastic originals around $250.00. There are cheaper after markets if you want to assume that risk.

My $1000 expense business case was:

1. The 100% aluminum will last 3+ times longer than the plastic originals as long as the system is flushed according to the maintenance schedule with new coolant (-$750).

2. Shop labor is probable $200+ to replace the leaking radiator each time. I'm doing this install myself but I getting old to keep doing my own labor.
(-$200)

3. I also have easy access to change the belt and hoses with the radiator out.
(-$50)

Discovery Note:
I was only getting a few drips telltale under her before I discovered the leak across the bottom radiator seal. (images attached)

Recommend leak inspection from time to time.

 

Nice option to have on the table

 

We just discovered our radiator was cracked on Friday. We have been quoted $400+ for the OEM radiator and with install, flush and fill it will be $1100. They only give a 2 year or 24k mile warranty. What is the warranty on the 100% aluminum?

 

Ron Davis gave me a 90 warranty on the material and craftsmanship. They have sold a few of these and I found no reports of failures online. I don't expect any problem considering the following:

Here are my purchase decision risk notes:

Corrosion is the only threat to the 100% Al radiators I see as the front AC coil gives some highway debris projectile protection to the coolant coil. It probable takes a longer than two years to fail unless there is high electrical current passing through the coolant causing electrolysis induced corrosion and/or you really subject your Hummer to lots of shock and vibration.

*Recommend a "Check for Electrolysis" no matter which radiator you use:
It's important even with the OEM radiators to check for electric current flow from the fluid at the top of the radiator to the negative pole of the battery with a volt meter. Zero to 0.3 volts DC is the acceptable range. They say to check for AC current flow also.

This test should be done after the system flush and fill with "New Dex-Cool mixed with De-Minerialized/Distilled water". Warm up the motor but not hot. The volt meter should accurate enough and recently calibrated. I replaced my old radioshack mulitmeter with this -->
From what I read, 0.5 volts at this point with a cleaned and refilled system means there is a grounding wire problem with the auto transmission as the cooling lines are the path of least electrical resistance.

*Once you have this initial test satisfactory, recommend the voltage test be repeated at each oil change or use the auto pasts store has available coolant end of life test strips. Used Dex-Cool needs replaced when voltage goes over 0.7 volts DC. Again, check the voltage after this flush and fill. The owner manual looks to set a five year expected life of Dex-Cool. I found data on Dex-Cool that allows up to 0.5 volts to be sat, but Ron Davis recommends no more that 0.3 volts after the flush and fill to extend the radiators life. Here is the volt test --
Here are my failure findings:
My radiator failed from corrosion with help from bio-foul (lots of bugs and dirt) debris trapped between the AC coil and radiator building up on the bottom plastic to metal joint ridge.

The Ron Davis design does not have the large bottom ridge like the plastic model to trap debris like this, but bugs still get into the coils. (see images)

*Recommend opening the hood and completing a low pressure fresh water flushing of the radiator coils to get road debris out.

Besides the attached images, here is a link to a video of my radiator and collection of dead bugs-->