Engine light...
I spoke with the service manager and am bringing it in today.
Should I check the oil level as well as the actuator before I bring it in?
Should I check the oil level as well as the actuator before I bring it in?
You should check the oil level every time you put in gas. I would have checked that long before picking up the phone to call the dealer, which is the absolute last place I would take any vehicle for service.
You do not need to change the oil every 3000 miles. That was old school carried over from the pre 1980s when the tolerance of engine parts were not even close to what they are currently (That was a pun.
)
You only need to change it when the GM OLMS sends a CHG OIL message to your DIC. Usually 7500-9000 miles depending upon driving conditions.
Good luck.
You do not need to change the oil every 3000 miles. That was old school carried over from the pre 1980s when the tolerance of engine parts were not even close to what they are currently (That was a pun.
)You only need to change it when the GM OLMS sends a CHG OIL message to your DIC. Usually 7500-9000 miles depending upon driving conditions.
Good luck.
There is no place to take it to in my area other than Jiffy Lube, etc. for a simple oil change.
Every time I gas up? I haven't done that since I had a 1967 Shelby GT 500...
The frequency is based on how often I can get to the dealer that does a great job and is 110 miles away from me. Wasn't able to get there, so went local.
Will check the oil before I head over.
Every time I gas up? I haven't done that since I had a 1967 Shelby GT 500...
The frequency is based on how often I can get to the dealer that does a great job and is 110 miles away from me. Wasn't able to get there, so went local.
Will check the oil before I head over.
You should check the oil level every time you put in gas. I would have checked that long before picking up the phone to call the dealer, which is the absolute last place I would take any vehicle for service.
You do not need to change the oil every 3000 miles. That was old school carried over from the pre 1980s when the tolerance of engine parts were not even close to what they are currently (That was a pun.
)
You only need to change it when the GM OLMS sends a CHG OIL message to your DIC. Usually 7500-9000 miles depending upon driving conditions.
Good luck.
You do not need to change the oil every 3000 miles. That was old school carried over from the pre 1980s when the tolerance of engine parts were not even close to what they are currently (That was a pun.
)You only need to change it when the GM OLMS sends a CHG OIL message to your DIC. Usually 7500-9000 miles depending upon driving conditions.
Good luck.
OK, so I bring it back and they are telling me they think it is the oil sending switch (cha-ching $800.00), they are not certain, but will replace it just the same.
So, I have them hold off, pick up the truck and they told me my battery is dead and they had to jumpstart it.
The battery is not even 2 years old (Bosch). So it is still under some warranty from an auto store. Will bring it there tomorrow to have it replaced.
Every time I bring my H3 to this dealership all these problems suddenly pop up.
So, I have them hold off, pick up the truck and they told me my battery is dead and they had to jumpstart it.
The battery is not even 2 years old (Bosch). So it is still under some warranty from an auto store. Will bring it there tomorrow to have it replaced.
Every time I bring my H3 to this dealership all these problems suddenly pop up.
Do you still have the OEM battery terminal connectors? If you do, your battery may not be dead, but your connections to it are weak.
Take a look at how many threads there are about hacking those POS OEM Terminals and replacing them with a quality aftermarket set of battery terminal connectors, like stingers or your favorite brand.
Take a look at how many threads there are about hacking those POS OEM Terminals and replacing them with a quality aftermarket set of battery terminal connectors, like stingers or your favorite brand.
I have yet to duplicate what took place in their hands for roughly 4 hours.
When I got the H3 back, the time on the radio was 12:21 (it was actually 6pm).
I have seen that thread, but never had an issue with the battery.
Found a new mechanic that works on a friends Hummer and will see what he finds.
When I got the H3 back, the time on the radio was 12:21 (it was actually 6pm).
I have seen that thread, but never had an issue with the battery.
Found a new mechanic that works on a friends Hummer and will see what he finds.
Do you still have the OEM battery terminal connectors? If you do, your battery may not be dead, but your connections to it are weak.
Take a look at how many threads there are about hacking those POS OEM Terminals and replacing them with a quality aftermarket set of battery terminal connectors, like stingers or your favorite brand.
Take a look at how many threads there are about hacking those POS OEM Terminals and replacing them with a quality aftermarket set of battery terminal connectors, like stingers or your favorite brand.
Duh, I have OnStar, so I had them run it.
Now, I went to a dealership to get a simple oil change and I should have know better, as this place you bring it in for something simple like brakes or oil and you end up with 5 other issues. I was in a pinch to get the oil change as my usual place is 110 miles away and it has thrown 2 codes:
P0521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance
This code suggests low oil level in the engine, old dirty oil, low oil pressure faulty wiring or connection, faulty oil pressure sender/ sensor.
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit High Voltage
This code suggests various causes, wrong oil used, obstruction in the oil passageway, high pressure because of constriction in this passageway, etc. The vehicle is not to be driven according to what I can find.
I have the oil changed less than 3K miles each time and the service records are aggressive in that anything needed to be done is done well in advance.
My H3 has under 75K miles on it.
So, with this knowledge, the H3 isn't going anywhere other than the shop to correct this.
Anyone have experience with these 2 codes?
Now, I went to a dealership to get a simple oil change and I should have know better, as this place you bring it in for something simple like brakes or oil and you end up with 5 other issues. I was in a pinch to get the oil change as my usual place is 110 miles away and it has thrown 2 codes:
P0521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance
This code suggests low oil level in the engine, old dirty oil, low oil pressure faulty wiring or connection, faulty oil pressure sender/ sensor.
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit High Voltage
This code suggests various causes, wrong oil used, obstruction in the oil passageway, high pressure because of constriction in this passageway, etc. The vehicle is not to be driven according to what I can find.
I have the oil changed less than 3K miles each time and the service records are aggressive in that anything needed to be done is done well in advance.
My H3 has under 75K miles on it.
So, with this knowledge, the H3 isn't going anywhere other than the shop to correct this.
Anyone have experience with these 2 codes?
Did you ever get this issue resolved? If so what was the problem and what was the fix and cost of the repair.
I have the same issue with my 2009 H2. Engine light is on and just yesterday the red engine low oil pressure light flash on but went back off it came on 2 or 3 time it always went off. I have No odd engine noise. Oil pressure gauge sits at Zero wife said the meter sometimes goes from 0 to 80 quickly and sometimes stopping midway, but mostly bouncing between the low 0 and High 80. We have never had engine light come before only 60K miles.
It happen just after an dealership oil change. Would be grateful for any suggestions or recommendations, Before taking it back to dealership.


