Hello!

I have a 2007 H3 Hummer and all of a sudden my drivers side window wasn't going down and I couldn't lock my doors. I did everything from the battery wire trick, changed the battery and now I've taken off my door panel. It turns out the main plug that connects the door wiring harness to the rest of the electric has corrosion on the "connector pins". But a pin has broken off. Is there a way to just change out those pins? Or do I need a new wiring harness?

Any recommendation would be great or if a member has one they could sell? I need my truck for work and would like to get the part sooner than later.

Thank you all!

Frank

 

the pins and sockets are usually serviceable. you just need to sort out what type you need,

 

What pray tell is "the battery wire trick"?

 

Shorting the battery leads to one another after disconnecting them, I believe it has to do w/a power lock relay from the drivers armrest panel.
I did it yesterday and it worked. Apparently if you run down your battery enough to require and boost it, The relay remains open (closed) not sure which, but it needs to be reset (drained) before the drivers door lock switch and drivers window controls get locked out.

 

Actually, your battery wire trick does nothing for any late model GM vehicles. Disconnecting the battery, and then reconnecting it does.

The driver door window and lock switch failure is caused by a few things, mostly poor battery terminal connection and or dead battery, once the connection is re-established the problem corrects itself. Another reason to hack of the crappy azzed OEM Battery Terminal Connectors and replace with a quality aftermarket set. Once switched to Stingers, neither of my H3s ever had that issue again.

 

SHORTING(causes damage), I do NOT recommend your procedure!
To drain any residual voltage, disconnect the negative battery terminal, turn the headlights on, and wait 10mins+ until all remaining voltage is gone from the capacitors.

 

K, Now you've got me on the defensive for referencing an answer that several people including myself have used.
Also not "My" wire trick or procedure.
Whether my interpretation of it is correct or not or whether it is hazardous has no bearing, I was replying to a question not recommending it to anyone.
It's previously documented in the forum which is precisely why I even GOT here.
Like I stated, It worked for me, 2007 H3.

 

I have the same issue with my drivers side window going down but will not come back up. I had the door off replacing the hinge pins and bushings when I saw the same type of corrosion on the connector at the door to the body and main harness. I did not have time to deal with it at the time but I did find a "trick" that worked for me. I have to turn the truck off and then restart it in order for there to be enough power going to the the window controls. I have an ODB code (can't remember the P#) but it states that I do not have enough power going to that panel. This would maybe also explain why I haven't been able to use the key fob to lock/unlock as there isn't enough power but when the truck is running, I can use the fob.

Once the weather is warmer, I plan on fixing that wiring and pin. A good electrical connector kit will probably do the trick OR i'll have to McGyver it as not being able to use the fob and restarting the truck to use the window is a pain.

 

Thanks for the input Wongsol.
I've not had any further issues since original post.