No matter what the initiation of locking Or unlocking, be it key fob, any interior lock button, or starting to drive, the driver's side door lock lever will flinch a little but not fully swing. Be it locking or unlocking. All other doors function just fine.

My next step is just to pull the interior door panel off and inspect, lube, etc. If I find something definitive, I will post a picture here...

I tried searching about this and found a lot of issue with the control being totally absent. just nothing like this. It's a weird topic to search for as there are a lot of 4WD locking issues.

Thanks.

 

Oh, and windows work great.

Pasting this here incase it helps me later or helps others:

https://hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/t...tuators.13964/

 

Door latch is binding not the actuator. Spray lithium grease in the latch and work it in. Cheap and effective spray found here>>>> WD-40® Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray, 10 ozNow $6.98

 

I had this exact issue on my last H3. If lubricating the lock and the actuator doesn't work (it didn't for me) there's a company on eBay that sells just the electronic solenoid that can be easily swapped into the existing door lock mechansim. The solenoid is attached to the door latch mechanism with just a few machine screws. Or, for 4x the price, you can also buy the whole latch mechanism assembly.

Search eBay for ActuatorsPlus. Here's a link to their current H3 offereings:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr..._oac=1&_nkw=h3

Driver Door Here:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/20284959474...cAAOSwQDZkg26H

 

Same thing on ebay ...........same price and same people if you like to do the ebay thing.

 

Awesome! Thank you. I will post back whichever way this works out.

 

Just bought our 2008 Hummer H3 Alpha today and the seller said that it had this issue with the driver's door as well, but only if the battery was low and he evidently didn't drive it enough to keep the battery up. Sounds like something is dragging because of its placement in the driver's door or for some other reason why it's drawing so much current, so please let us know of your findings.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Are you still trying to use the crappy azzed OEM Battery Terminal connectors? If so, look that up here, first Mod to be done to every H3/H3T is to get good quality aftermarket Battery Terminal Connectors like Stingers or your favorite brand.

 

Like said, just bought it and going by what the seller said, since the issue isn't present at this time.
He did say that he put in a new battery and the alternator looks to be new as well which I think someone talked him into because of this problem.
Upon inspection, I saw that it had the heavy old style battery connectors and for looking brand new as well.
I'm thinking that he had this issue after this work was done as well, from the way he talked
Anyway, we'll see what happens as time goes on and go from there.