I bet that sounds so sweet! I did get the head unit and speakers all at once. Next on my list will be a 2 channel amp that powers two 8" subs under the seats. I have found a few super slim boxes that will fit under my H3Ts seats. I will have to unbolt the front just to get them under though. I am going to wait on this mod, however. I would like to get a deep cycle battery. I am also going to put in a separate switch for the amp/subs, so I can listen to my tunes while camping and not drain my power fast.

 

im still trying to figure your setup.
did u keep the monsoon amp in the back?
is that still driving your speakers?
the 6 pairs of speaker wires still go from sp to monsoon amp? (= the woofer in back)?
you said you are not selling the monsoon amp?
im actually playing with an idea of testing an old very good radio that has built in usb and sd card reader so i am curious just how you interfaced with the speakers

 

Would you mind posting a picture of this? I'm having a little trouble visualizing this.

 

Ok drtom. Think of the stock monsoon system for an H3 as 4 front speakers (count the tweeters as part of the front door speakers). Your 50 watt per channel max powers these "4" speakers. Next they have a separate signal outlet on the back of the stereo for an amp. This signal goes to the rear amp and powers the sub. You could upgrade this amp with a better aftermarket amp for more power. Now I think it is getting confusing because I have an H3T. So this monsoon system has the 6 speakers you have, only to get more "base" or lows they installed 6x9" inch speakers in the back doors instead of 6.5" rounds that you have.

CHP I will have to pull the door panels again for a pic. Your stock speakers have a 1/2" factory mount between the speaker and the door. doc olds shows this in his bottom pic under the stock speaker (left). Aftermarket makes a 1/2"x6.5 ring that you could install between the two to give a total of 1" space between the door metal and the speaker.

 

Also CHP get a flashlight and shine it into your door panel speaker grill. You should notice that the speaker is not very close to the grill. A lot of your sound is going into the door panel and not into the cab.

This plastic spacer (on the net under 6.5" speaker spacer) just moves the speaker closer to the door panel grill, to get more "boom" into the cab. I tried to add a 1" spacer and it was too much and the speaker could rub on the door panel.

Just think of it as a sub in a 1 cubic foot box. If you put that same sub into a 1.5 cubic foot box, the speaker moves in and out more freely giving lower lows and thus more base. This is just a cheap way to feel the music more. If I had the H3 version I would add a quality sub and a quality amp to power it.

 

in a monsoon the speakers,all speakers are driven by the amp in the back. the 6 disc front head has 4 pairs of low level wires going to the amp in the back, not to the speakers.
6 pairs of wires go forward to the 6 speakers. the sub sits beside the amp.

thats why im trying to understand how you put a hi power head up front and ??,,is it driving the speakers or is it driving the amp,in the back?


oh i just read this again
. not so,
this does not happen. there are 4 pairs going to the amp. 6 pairs coming out plus the sub driver next door.

 

Sorry doc. I am going off of how any normal after market system works. Like I said I don't have an H3 so who knows how Hummer came up with the wiring. I would guess though that your main head unit is supplying power (watts) to some speakers. It doesn't seem right that one amp is powering 7 speakers? Are there any watt numbers on the factory amp?

In my H3T the factory monsoon stereo has 200 watts (max power) to a total of 6 speakers. Maybe the H3s and H3Ts are more different than I suspect. I have a friend I know with an H3 and I will look over what she has.

 

ive studied the wiring diagrams for both monsoon and the low end radio and i have that diagram in front of my when i comment on these subjects. it is an accurate description.

the low end radio drives the speakers from the front. the monsoon is completly different and there is no power up front, only low level drive to the amp in back which has 8 pairs out,2 pairs in parallel to the sub which has 2 voice coils. 6 pairs to the 6 speakers.

both tweets get their own 2 wires.

it will be interesting to see how the h3t does it without the sub...

 

Maybe you just blew my thread apart! lol! Well I know us H3T owners got robbed with Monsoon and no extra amp and sub. I did my stereo head unit upgrade (200 watts max) with all 6 speakers replaced with high end components. I am very pleased with how it worked out. My spacer upgrade on the door speakers could still apply to you as well as adding high end speakers.

After I get a deep cycle battery, I am going to add a two channel amp (175 watts max power) and two slim 8" subs in boxes under the seats. The problem is very little clearance under the rear seat. On paper at max that would be an 8 speaker 375 watt system. I really wonder if my 6 disk changer is any different than a regular H3?

Thanks for your input. I am sure we can figure this stereo issue out!

 

It does sound like you like the factory look and sound from your Monsoon system. To keep things a bit more simple, a speaker upgrade would serve you best.

I do know the factory H3 & T speakers are made with paper cores and foam outers. Very cheap and they are made by Delco, which make anything possible for any vehicle. Any high end speaker uses some type of polypropylene main with rubber surrounds. My front doors with window post tweeters were $165 bucks per pair (or all 4). The rears would be around $100 bucks per pair. Your sub would be around another $50 to a $100 bucks.

I am not trying to get you into a system that offends people. I just like the perfect sound of a well balanced quality system. You wouldn't be dissapointed in its performance. I would guess your volume level would actually go down from hearing perfect, clear sound. Cheers!