I've never had a problem with it leaking. The plastic washers on either side of the pan should seal it up enough. I've seen a drop on the drain plug every once in a while, that I wipe off, but it's never been a problem.

 

I've never removed the drive shaft when dropping the transmission pan!

 

hummerz, yes and the parts about the grommets are excessive in my view. Captain video here has the right concept and nice to capture his project. However, he could have cut some time and effort and stuck to the job at hand...

Still on the fence on wether or not to try this. Do appreciate all for taking the time to share thier knowledge on this job.

 

On a scale of 1-10, the trans fluid & filter change is about a 2.5. Basic metric socket tools and a TQ Wrench.

Years ago, I bought a new H3 Trans pan, drilled a 7/16" hole in the left front corner maybe 1.5" in from both edges, welded a 12MM x 1.75 weld nut to the outside (for a standard H3 oil pan plug or a F107S Fumoto Valve with short nipple). Then when a Trans fluid & filter (FF) change come up, you put the modified pan back on in its place and do the same mod to the old pan for the next H3. I am on pan #3.

The add a drain plug kits work well, I've never used a Dorman, but I have used the B&M version. Used those a few times back in the day on some TH 350s & 400s, never had a leak.

The drain plug is more than a convenience, it allows a drain and refill with fresh fluid a couple weeks after the initial FF change to get more of the dirty stuff out that stayed in the Torque Converter. If you are obsessive compulsive, you could drain and refill another time.

As to the Drive shaft, disconnect it at the front and hang it off to the side with a piece of tape/zip tie/wire/string....

 

Curious here, would I get the same benefit if I used a Mityvac to suck fluid out via the drip stick tube, or would adding a drain plug provide a better result? I already have a mighty vac so that's the easiest path for me if it gets a result that's just as good. Thanks!

 

If using an add a Drain Plug, I would say sure, about the same result. When you weld on a drain plug via a weld nut or modified nut, the bottom of the pan is the lowest point and gravity will take the pan to nearly empty as there is no bolt and washer head inside the pan preventing the last 3/16" or so of fluid from draining out. So a welded plug bung may be ever so slightly better. Hardly an earth shaking difference. Whatever works for you.

I have an EWK Pneumatic/Manual Oil Extractor that I have been using on boat oil changes for a long while. They work pretty good, but IMHO it is easier to lay down a pan and remove a drain plug or open a Fumoto with attached hose to a jug and let gravity do the work.

 

So talking with my mechanic about this. He said with 110,000 the filter may not be that bad. He suggests additive to loose up any crud and run his shop machine to do a complete flush and replenish with new fluid.

Has anyone that has actually changed the filters found that they are in need of replacement?

 

I can't say I have ever looked to see just how bad a filter has been. A transmission is generally clean, much cleaner than engine oil. However, it NEEDS to be much cleaner. I would probably be less worried about a transmission filter being dirty, and more worried about the physical age of the filter and element.

I look at it as a very easy preventive step to keep everything running well. The owner's manual recommends changing the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. I'm not sure if yours was changed at 50,000, but if not, you would already be over by 100%.

In my mind the limited expense on filter and gasket plus the relative ease of the job makes it a no-brainer. I would recommend you change it.

 

It would be idiotic to drop the pan, replace the gasket and leave the dirty filter in place. When you buy the gasket, 99% come with the filter. They even make additional filters you can add into the cooler line.

You mechanic is just suggesting a flush along with the filter and fluid change. If he even suggests to leave the old filter, run away and avoid future business with that place.

 

Doc, thanks for that...
He is suggesting leaving the pan alone. Running a SeaFoam add then doing a complete flush. Dropping the pan is whats avoided here. I have the kit with the filter and gasket. Since I was going to try this but now its too cold outside...