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Control arm 2 bolts stuck

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Old Oct 8, 2024 | 01:41 PM
  #1  
mudking's Avatar
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Default Control arm 2 bolts stuck


Hi

I have an older 2007 h3 hummer and am redoing the control arm and ball joints and cv, everything is off except I can't get the upper control arm bolts off the bushing, tried tapping and penetex, do I need to jack up in a special spot to reduce pressure on those 2 bolts?

Every video I see they they detach the ball joint and then tap out and spin the 2 bolts with eas, mine just seem like they have pressure holding them in there

Thanks for any help in advance.
 
Old Oct 9, 2024 | 09:23 AM
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Good luck. When I did the 06 H3 had to literally cut the arm and cut thru the center of the UCA just to remove them. WI. salt and calcium chloride.
 
Old Oct 9, 2024 | 12:31 PM
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Yeah, talked to mechanic and he said don't waste time tapping just cut it, I got a recipricating saw and a bunch of metal carbide blades, should be good for a few days.

How long and what did you use to cut it out ?
Also did yiu need an alignment after installing new one ?
 
Old Oct 10, 2024 | 07:10 AM
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I spent 17 hrs to remove replace both UCA. Then alignment at local place.
 
Old Oct 10, 2024 | 07:11 AM
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4.5" angle grinder with 6" cut off wheels. Also, 4.5" cut off wheels. Hacksaw.
 
Old Oct 10, 2024 | 08:46 AM
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Remove the front shock. Hit the bolts with some heat, like a MAP torch.... not red hot, just until you smell bushing cooking and keep it going for a while. Melts the bushings and will let the bolts go after you give them a spin or two. They may move a bit and then need more heat as you go.

Done that for leaf spring bushing bolts that are stubborn after years of road salt and crud.

Otherwise it is a cut and cuss situation.
 
Old Oct 10, 2024 | 08:50 AM
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Ok, see I tried my 4.5 I ch angle grinder and it seemed like I couldn't get to the bolts due to the box around.

So when you say 6 inch wheels do uou mean you took off the guard and put a 6 inch blade on it? Sorry I'm not much of angle grinder expert. All i know is is using the recipricating saw is killing me.

I tried the heat several tines with a good blow torch and not much luck, I got to the point where I can hole the bolt head with a 21 mm socket and move the arm up and down and the bolt won't move but hammering on the bolt it just won't budge,. Hars to tap with the fender wall, though about trying using my hardwood flooring metal thing for when you reach the wall and want to snug the boards up.


 

Last edited by mudking; Oct 10, 2024 at 08:59 AM.
Old Oct 11, 2024 | 09:03 AM
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I just did this job on mine as well, and also had to cut mine out.
Take the inner fender out if you haven't already - it will give you a little bit more room.

I myself used a Sawzall with a multipurpose blade. The metal blades were going WAY too slow, and the multi-purpose went a little faster - but I also went through one blade per bolt. In my mind it was a good trade-off. Because you can only use a small portion of the tip of the blade, I would cut the blade down when it got dull to give me access to a sharper part of the blade. I was going to go with an angle grinder, but I had the wrong size blades, so I don't know personally how that compares to how I did it.

I needed to cut the bolt on both sides of the control arm, as mine were really seized, so two cuts per bolt.

Be careful though with your alignment pin that is part of the bracket. This pin is what provides the cam action on the eccentric bolts. I accidentally cut one of mine off, but thankfully I found it and was able to weld it back on. They appear to be pressed into a hole, and I may have cut a little on the back side of it, which allowed it to fall out.

It was a full day's job, but I was finally able to get a proper alignment!
 
Old Oct 11, 2024 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by brothapig
I just did this job on mine as well, and also had to cut mine out.
Take the inner fender out if you haven't already - it will give you a little bit more room.

I myself used a Sawzall with a multipurpose blade. The metal blades were going WAY too slow, and the multi-purpose went a little faster - but I also went through one blade per bolt. In my mind it was a good trade-off. Because you can only use a small portion of the tip of the blade, I would cut the blade down when it got dull to give me access to a sharper part of the blade. I was going to go with an angle grinder, but I had the wrong size blades, so I don't know personally how that compares to how I did it.

I needed to cut the bolt on both sides of the control arm, as mine were really seized, so two cuts per bolt.

Be careful though with your alignment pin that is part of the bracket. This pin is what provides the cam action on the eccentric bolts. I accidentally cut one of mine off, but thankfully I found it and was able to weld it back on. They appear to be pressed into a hole, and I may have cut a little on the back side of it, which allowed it to fall out.

It was a full day's job, but I was finally able to get a proper alignment!
Was there any cussing during the cut?
 
Old Oct 11, 2024 | 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the help,, I never even thought of the cutting the blade off as it dulls.

I saw a lot of talk on Sawzall, is that a generic term for recipricator saw.

I know the outside bolt is easy because I got all bolt and half way through smashed thev bolt in half but the inside bolt I can't get straight at and am cutting through the arms rubber then bushing steel to get to the bolt, slow ad ****.

Yep every four letter word I know on a 5 minute basis. All the videos I watched was people pushing the bolts outbwith their finger....... yeah right !
 



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