I want to install new battery connectors, but they sell them with multiple inputs for different gauge wires. There are (2) positive wires crimped together, and (2) negative wires crimped together. Can anybody tell me exactly what the individual gauges of these are so I know what connectors to buy? thx!

 

Hummer H3 upgraded battery terminals - YouTube

 

I like vids! Thanks Broke.

I just wnt with Stinger Battery terminals (SPT53102) with the four openings (0/4/& 8 x2)and used the same model BEP Marine 701 mini switch mounted on a SS bracket I made with a piece of scrap to isolate the winch.

 

Hey Doc, can you fab me up one of those nice looking SS brackets and bring it to DI???
I have the same Marine switch for my winch.

 

Personally, the stereo connectors with a set screw are my preference. It has nothing to do with how much force it would take to rip one off the end of a battery cable, rather it is about connectivity. Either you have it, or you don't.

ie..... anybody a little bit pregnant?


I have seen clamped on oem terminals fail, it's rare, but it happens.

If you over tighten the stereo terminal set screws you can indeed break wires, if you do it properly, no worries. They also allow 100s of options that others don't ........ like this?

 

Still looking for a definitive answer, as to the gauge of each of the positive and negative cables on our H3's. All the high-end connectors that interest me are mail order only, and they have various combinations of gauge inputs, so I need that info to order correctly. Any help, greatly appreciated!

 

I will defend my understanding that if there is a strong physical crimped connection completely around the required gauge cable then there is definitely good electrical connectivity between the wires and battery terminal clamp. ie completely pregnant or fully involved.
I don't have any first hand experience with those battery terminals with set screws. I have had problems in some electronics that provide a pierced wire type connection and even 30 amp power receptacles that large gauge wire will not be retained with a small plate and screw over the stranded wire.
The crimps are just my choice.

 

Did you measure how thick your cables are?

4AWG = 3/8"
2AWG = 7/16"
1/0AWG = 9/16"
2/0AWG = 5/8"

After you go out and measure yours, share the definitive answer with all of us inquiring minds.

I'm 25 minutes from heading home for Miller time myself, or I would go do it for you.

 

Thanks for the reply Doc...but I was thinking someone might know (example): 'The positive side has a (2) 4 gauges and (1) 8 gauge & the negative side has (2) 4 gauges etc. Then I could order the terminal with the right number of inputs, at the correct gauges. The info you gave me is good if those dimensions are with the insulation, because with the wires bundled together and crimped, there's no way to individually measure them, but I'm guessing that is a industry standard dimension for the wire itself, as there can be different insulation thickness's. Sorry for being so 'specific', but I guess it's just the engineer in me.

 

Some earlier cables years ago were made up using solder but under extreme amperage loads (like winches), could soften the connection. I learned that with advances in time that silver solder was the way to go for awhile because it took a higher temp to melt.

I then noted that the guys at the starter/alternator shops always made a strong physical connection first, then soldered that. They used those hammer type crimpers because at the time there were no hydraulic units.