I too had this blower issue this past summer during Oklahoma's hottest summers on record..Thanks to the folks on this thread I was able to find and fix the problem...

I replaced both the Wiring harness and resistor block..The only thing I could see as to the cause was the little anchor clip on the wiring harness nearest the Resistor block that put a heck of a lot of strain on the connector..
I didn't fasten that clip again on the new wiring harness and re-inspected the connector after 6 months and there was no signs of anymore overheating...

Again, thanks to this thread and all that contributed to it.

 

I am going to use this method to repair mine as well, I am not "flux savvy" either. Can you tell me, what type of "new wire" did you use for the female connectors?

 

My son fixed my 08 h3 and his 06 h3 this weekend. Had trouble sodering he took three hours. Finally finished and it worked. On Saturday he worked on mine. He took less than an hour because he cut out only the burned area and replaced only that last wire with a female clamp. Cleaned the burned male and slide the two in. Works like a charm. Thank you Craige! Final cost $3.24 for the female connection which I found at Radio Shack.

 

I had this problem several months ago. I also had a melted housing and resistor plastic cover at locations 1 and 2 on the inside of the resistor. I cut away the plastic on the resistor and cleaned the contacts. I then pulled wires 1 and two out of the harness and clamped new connectors to them (no soldering).

I put it back together and it was running great until last week. It went out again and I looked everything over. All connections appear to be fine with no further melting noted. I ordered a new resistor (Duralast Part #JA1577) and installed it thinking the resistor unit was bad.

This fixed my problem and I had heat and ac for about 2 days when it went out again. I rechecked the connections and they all seem fine.

I spoke with a mechanic and told him I was on my second resistor and it still broke. He thinks there is something wrong with the blower motor and that I need to replace that.

Does anyone know what else I can do? The Duralast part came from Auto Zone and has a lifetime warranty so I know they can order another but I dont want to keep putting new resistors in only to have them burn out again.

I do have an extended warranty on my 07 hummer that takes it to 10 years, 100,000 and I only have about 48,000 on it. Should I take it to an mechanic that specializes in electrical issues to see if he can find out what is up?

Any help is appreciated, it's starting to get hot in AZ.

Rob

 

You paid for an extended warranty and you don't know what you should do?? I would think it's a 'no brainer' !!

 

would this be same if the heater blower stopped working? my wife's heater has been intermittent. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt blow at all

 

If I can fix it for less than the deductible then it is a 'no brainer' to fix it, if it will cost more then using the warranty would be a 'no brainer'.

Rob

 

This worked great for me. Pretty simple this way.

 

the blo motor has 2 connections. one goes to 12v,the other to the resistor and gets grounded thru it.
you can ground any pin on the connector to test the motor.
the res gives various speeds till the top speed where the switch grounds a relay which grounds the motor direct for full speed.
when you ground any point with a wire its the same full speed.

 

Find a good GM, or preferably Cadillac dealer, and have them call Hummer. This is a known problem and they will fix it as an owner loyalty thing even if the truck is out of warranty. And the parts are upgraded so you don't have to worry about it happening again. I had mine done in January and the lady at Hummer couldn't have been any nicer. Didn't cost me a penny.