Ok, so I got my 1-1/16" socket, breaker bar and jack handle extension, ready to level my rig at the torsion bolts...

Deciding to take my "before" measurements, I found:

DriverSideFront=21-3/8"
PassSide Front=20-7/8"

DriverSideBack=23"
PassSideBack=24-7/8"

These were measured from center of "H" of stock wheels to the edge of the inner fender.

Should I be worried about the differences in existing measurements from left to right at the front... and left to right at the back?

 

It's normal. Ignore the back measurements for now.

Do the torsion bar adjustment and try to hit the 23-1/2" max. in front.

Don't worry about number of turns or how many turns per side, just go by the measurements. Drive around a little and see if the front settles. If it does then adjust some more to get back to the 23-1/2". Then check again for settling.

Get a front end alignment within a couple of days.

THEN, if you want to, measure the rear. It may or may not have changed, but it's no big deal if it is still unequal. The gas tank is on the driver's side, rear. Just the weight of a full vs. empty tank will skew the measurement.

 

Start with the passenger side front, as you adjust the T Bolt on that side, the driver side will also go up some before you are done.

 

Thanks guys.

Stupid question: Does it matter whether I "crank" the pass side completely up first.....

....or partial crank alternating left and right?

 

Ok, just got done cranking both sides to 22-1/2". Glad I had a heavy jack handle extension!

Marked the bolts with sharpie to count rotations.

Pass side required 11 rotations of the tbolt to raise 1-5/8"
Drive side only required 3 rotations of the tbolt to raise 1-1/8".

Did most of the pass side turns first before alternating with driver side.

Back measurements stayed the same. Still 2" difference between back right and left
with a half tank of gas.

At 22-1/2", most of the rake has disappeared.

The average person would think it is level.

Now for the test drive....

 

If you lift the front end off the ground you could probably turn the socket on the t-bars by hand.

Look at the rear springs, any bushings blown out? Trail damage?

 

Good job.

IMHO the T Bar adjustment is a thing of beauty, it allows a little, or a lot (up to 23.5") of adjustment, it is really up to each person's personal taste.

 

Alright, now that you have that close, on to the rear....

There was a TSB on the rear ride height variation from left to right. Essentially, what is said was to looses the rear spring mounting bolts at the rear shackle. Note: LOOSEN, DO NOT REMOVE.

With the bolts loosened, have a friend or two join you for some Bumper Monkey, the idea being trying to jounce the rear suspension some while the bolts are loose. GM found that some of the rear spring bolts at the shackles were so tight they allowed some binding and the rear suspension would not always settle level across the vehicle. When you've done all the bouncing and checking, tighten the rear spring bolts to 85 Nm/63 Ft. lbs.

Hope that helps.