I have a 06 H3 adventure pack 5 speed with typical bolt ons and t bar crank. it only has 58k and still has original tires so their dry rot to say the least. im thinking about going up to 315s but my major concern is the front hubs because I already replaced them both between 50k-55k and the cheapest quality ones I could find were from the dealership at $250 each. I was wondering if this is typical? but with them being so expensive I don't wanna put on 315s if im gonna go threw hubs like crazy. and ive decided on Hankook Dynapro ATM or Nitto Terra Grappers for tires. What are some of your guys experiences? I understand its gonna take a tole on my mpg and all that. and also one member suggested 305/70R16? are those the in between size? or just wider 285s?

and with the body lift. if I understand correctly you just have to cut out the bottom of the shroud? and do you need a body lift to clear 315s on the spare holder? and for the front gap I seen one guy installed a THOR bumper which covered it up pretty good but if I decided to go with a brush guard or N-Fab light bar will it not line up properly?

I don't mean to ask to many questions at once im just trying to get all my info together on what to do to the h3 next because all the typical stuff is done (ie tint, aux port, day star panel, powder coated wheels etc...)

 

1-Wheel Hub Rockauto.com $189.89-MOOG / $150.79-TIMKEN
2-305/70R16 is approx. 33x12x16
3-NO BODY LIFT NECESSARY TO FIT A 315 ON THE BACK OF ANY H3
4-NO trimming necessary because you don't need a body lift to fit 315s on any H3
5-NO body gap because you don't need a body lift to fit 315s on any H3
6-Any brush guard/bulbar/light bar/aftermarket bumper will fit just fine because you don't need a body lift to fit 315s on any H3

 

Agree with Tainter

But, if you really want a body lift:

No trimming is necessary on the radiator shroud because on 2006-07 the lower half just gets rotated to the upper side and fixed into position. (takes all of 1 minute to do)

There will be a body gap. (it may get hidden by a brushguard).

Most brushguards will fit just fine. The OEM will look funny because of the small ends now being 1" lower than the lights but others like the Steelcraft will look fine.
If you plan on a Predator type brush guard that wraps around the top of the grill then you will need to modify the mounting on the brushguard. This is nothing more than drilling new holes on the brushguard mounting plate, 1" lower (again, a simple fix)

Here's mine with the Daystar 1" body lift, t-bar adjustment, ThorParts bumper and 315/75/16 Goodyear Duratrac's.






Vs. stock soccer mom H3

 

Thank you guys for the info! I'm thinking about the body lift more for the look, I know I don't need it to clear the 35s. I think I'm gonna go with the 315s and body lift for sure. And I like the look of the steel craft brush board but how sturdy is their built in winch mount? It must attactch to more than just the factory d schackles? Correct? And I'm a big fan of the thor bumper but they currently are out of stock til April I think? How much are they?

 

All brushguards including the Steelcraft attach by using the D ring attachment points only. That's directly at the end of the frame and is the best spot for pulling. There is really no other point to pull without damage.

The Steelcraft combo guard/winch mount is a good quality product. I know a few people running it.

I'm not sure of current ThorParts pricing but my bumper was approx. $800, 2 years ago.