Originally Posted by NMH3

Is it still the original water pump?

Also, your air box cover is not properly engaged at the fender side, so you are likely sucking hot engine compartment air in that is bypassing the filter.

Originally Posted by Justinh

Is the upper radiator hose crimped between the fan shroud and the air intake tube? It looks like it is from the pic. It also looks like the intake tube is not squarely on the air box outlet - just to be sure it is sealing properly.

Originally Posted by Doc Olds

At what temp are the shroud fans triggered and by what? Do you still have the lower radiator seal ( big rubber mat) in place hanging off the rear bottom of the radiator? The plastic deflectors to the side and bottom in front of the condenser?

I can see your upper seal for H3 Alphas is missing? It is like a foam weather strip and supposed to be between the top front of the radiator and upper radiator support all across the top.

Without all the seals and baffles, you would allow air to get around the radiator instead of forced through it.

What are you running for coolant?

What is your trans temp? I assume you are still running the AT fluid through the radiator loop. If so, your trans may be too hot and adding to your problem.

Now let’s talk your shroud. 4000 CFM is about the minimum, 4500 is where my SuperModulation Sfan is at, curved plastic and seals tightly to the back of the radiator. Yours might need some high heat foam strips to seal it better so it can pull more air through. The problem with flat metal shrouds (I had a very early PCM ForLess Efan) is they hinder driving air (air pushed in the front while driving 30mph +) getting out the back of the shroud on all that space where the fans are not. PCM revised their design to include rubber flappers to vent as Derale did, but still less than ideal.

Originally Posted by LargeFarva

Thanks! Good catch, will check that. Yes still original water pump but seems to be circulating from what I can tell. The temps on lower hose are lower than the high...is that what to look for?

Originally Posted by NMH3

At a high level, yeah, that says coolant is circulating but doesn’t tell you how much or if the pump is working at its proper output capacity. Maybe pop the serpentine belt and spin the pump by hand and check for axial or radial play, smooth and free operation, listen for scraping/ grinding/ chirping sounds, etc. Check the idler pulley, alternator, PS and the tensioner while you have the belt off and make sure everything is in good condition. Make sure the tensioner is not worn and is providing good tension.

Originally Posted by LargeFarva

Ok so the water pump was making a slight grinding noise when manually turned. So replaced that and the AC compressor and condenser, new belts and a higher output alternator (240 mechman) to make sure fan, added lights and aftermarket stereo/amp has enough juice. So now after warm up and idle for 20 min with ac on (which is cold now) I am getting 192 coolant temp and holding firm. Will be doing some extra mods on shroud as well per @Doc Olds to make sure I am not wasting any air flow. But the thing is sucking good air through condenser/radiator but I am sure it will be better with some alterations. Also fixed the airbox so with ambient of 80 I am getting 105 on IAT. Main takeaway is I just thought if water pump is circulating coolant it is not the problem. There are levels of "suck" and obviously it needs to be operating at full capacity. Still looks ugly but getting the job done!

Thanks to everyone for their advice and helping me learn!