2007 H3 3.7, 221,000 miles.
The past two days, after driving home (interstate - 35 minutes @ 70 mph), exiting, and waiting at the light (low idle: 500 - 600 rpm I think), the engine oil light has popped on. It goes off at the slightest hint of throttle. At 221,000 miles, I'm worried it might be engine wear (engine runs great otherwise, and no excessive oil consumption).
I'm starting with an oil change today - I use 5w30 synthetic (full synthetic I believe - penzoil high mileage synthetic). I've got 5,000 miles on this oil right now, but I usually go to 8,000. Truck would let it go to about 13,000 miles if I let it tell me when to change oil, but I can't get myself to go that high with this many miles...

A few questions:
1) Does anyone know what pressure the oil sensor is designed to kick on at? Next steps will be to measure the pressure directly.
2) I know this has been discussed before (recently even), but it's hard to keep everything straight - just straight up, is it possible to use an '08/'09'/'10 block/head if I rebuild it back to an '07? I understand I'm on a bit of an island with the '07 engine, and they are tough to come by. I'm aware of the crank sensor and the PCM vs. ECM/TCM, but not much else at this point. I'll be searching - just would like to know if I'm wasting time is all.

 

Sorry, I didn't do enough research before I posted. I answered my own question #1.
I would still appreciate comments on my second question, or on the issue in general (first hand experience, etc.)

BTW, I'm going through the engine manual from https://schwarttzy.com/, which has an excellent trouble-shooting section for oil pressure

 

I would not get too excited about miles, yours has another 100K to go. A 3.7L block is a 3.7L block.

If you need an 07, there were a TON of 07 Collys and Canyons made that have the identical engine, no islands there. Start sniffing out the local pick n pulls.

 

I've never run 5k miles on my engine oil, advertised at 15k, since engine oil needs change at least once a year! In your case, I recommend an engine flush: basically the process placing chemicals in the engine oil to break down sludge or carbon deposits from old oil. ... The non-solvent flush additive chemical is added, then the vehicle is idled for 5-10 minutes, then drained!
LiquiMoly, Lucas, Or my preference:

 

I'll close the loop on this thread, as it might have some information for future searches.

I got my oil pressure tested, and it was good. Service manual says to use a special tool (J-42907) to test the pressure (at the oil filter), but beware, the one I purchased from Amazon did NOT fit. My low oil pressure warning problem went away until this past weekend.

Decided to change the oil, and noticed an oil leak coming from above the oil filter (oil pressure switch area). Sure enough, oil was leaking through the switch.

I changed the switch, and all is good. I removed the right front wheel and inner fender, and access wasn't really an issue. However, I did not know they made a special oil pressure switch socket. I HIGHLY recommend you get one if you are doing this job (at least on the 3.7). A regular 12-sided deep well will NOT work (the sensor is not a normal hex shape and the socket will not grab). BTW, size is 1-1/16". A 6-sided MAY work, but I did not try.

I cleaned the connector well with contact cleaner before I put the new one in.

Hummerz, I haven't skipped over your advice. I have the seafoam, but I couldn't find it when I went to change the oil this time . I will flush within 100 miles of my next change.

(picture below of the switch is NOT for an H3 3.7 - only trying the show the odd hex shape)