Hello,

My wife was driving her '06 H3 on the highway, at about 80. She didn't hear any kind of catastrophic failure, but was forced to stop as her battery drained following the failure of her serpentine belt.

What remained of the belt looked to be in pretty good shape; about half of the belt was still intact, but completely out of place. The tensioner looks and feels good, as do all the related accessories driven by the belt; all turn freely when manipulated by hand.

After replacing the belt, the car would crank but not start...not even hiccup. So, in an effort to fix it, I have performed the following tests:

No codes are currently being thrown;
All cylinders have compression;
Fuel pump is activating and there's pressure to the fuel manifold;
The fuel injector circuit has 9 volts constantly, and the reading on my volt meter fluctuates between 9 and 7 while cranking. However, there's no continuity when attempting to test the ground wire by itself, which seems odd. I don't have a noid light, but I'll see about renting one;
Sprayed starting fluid into the intake, got one good cough the first time, but nothing from further attempts;
Spark from all plugs. I reset the spark gap and cleaned plugs while in there, in accordance with the maintenance manual specs;
Timing chain and Cam shafts looks good;
Cleaned the throttle body;
Cleaned the MAF sensor. Also tried to start with it disconnected, to no avail;
Cleaned and tested the Variable timing solenoid. It had a few minor bits of metal on the screens, but the valve moves when tested. The whole unit rotates while installed, which seems odd, but it does seem to function;
Replaced the Cam Shaft sensor on the port side of the engine, as it was not testing correctly. The sensor on the Starboard side of the engine is testing correctly;
Replaced the crank shaft sensor, as upon inspection, the O-rings were found to be damaged during the previous installation and were brittle. Live data taken while cranking shows about 150 RPM, so the circuit seems to be intact.

I'm really at a loss here. If anyone has any other suggestions I'd greatly appreciate the input.

Cheers

 

During any of that work, have you disconnected the battery for 10 minutes or more before reconnecting it?

 

Several time, yes.

 

Update: I acquired a Noid light, and the injectors were being energized as expected. I went ahead and replaced the variable timing solenoid. Also, the Cam Shaft sensor that I replaced previously is the one on the passenger side of the vehicle, not the driver's side. But that's probably irrelevant since the ignition and injectors seem to be functioning properly. The scan tool still indicates zero codes.

Thanks so much.

 

You certainly being methodical.
was the belt fully intact??? Or were there sections slapping about??? Have you checked all grounds for continuity?? Cleaned them and regrounded???
Have you verified your fuses, relay's and fusible links/ super fuses are good with an ohm meter???
The belt could be a tell tale of a much more significant problem internally with said engine. Does the crank turn by hand, stater???

 

Is the PCM energized? Check the fuse box.

 

"Is the PCM energized? Check the fuse box."

That's exactly where I was headed next. I just checked and it is energized. What do you recommend?

 

More questions. What is the voltage at the battery, and can we assume the alternator is functioning?

The PCM is super sensitive to voltage irregularities, the belt incident may have caused a glitch in the PCM and it cannot read that it should run the engine when you request it via the ignition switch.

Even though you are getting cranking, I am wondering what the voltage is.

 

The last reading I took was around 12.7 as I recall. I've been putting it on the trickle charger as needed. I have no reason to suspect a faulty alternator at this point. I would have tested it already, but it's hard to get to. I've seen videos on a PCM "relearn" procedure, would you recommend trying that? Also, since I was in there, I checked the BCM. I got an indication of zero volts with the key in the ON position, is that normal? I'm about to go check that again.

 

Doesn't sound right to me. How about fuse #14 for the BCM?