Thank you for your Help on this, as I'm running out of ideas

 

Here is a dumb question, you don't by chance have the window lockout button activated on the drivers side door/window control? Also, when you activate the all windows down button are you in the vehicle with all the doors closed?
I do not think you have a door ajar switch problem because you would have a message on the DIC.

It bugs me you don't have power on pins 10 and 20 on the orange lead coming into the module. You could try to apply 12v's on that power lead then try the switch to see if anything happens. If this works there must be a broken wire, otherwise if 12v is present and the lockout switch is not set it is possible the midgate module is defective. I don't know if a tech 2 tool has any diagnostics for the rear window module. I wish I knew a little more about the midgate module. Looking at a picture on RockAuto it appears the module and motor is a complete assembly so i don't know how you could apply power directly to the motor it verify its operation.

 

checked the window lock button, and that was off. Also in the car with doors closed when trying the all down button.

I know power id going to the midgate circuit breaker, but have not confirmed its coming out of the circuit. wondering if its a bad connection on the outgoing side of the circuit.

I'll try to see if there was another wire coming from that circuit, and test that.

 

starting to suspect it might be in the interior fuse junction box. Recomfirmed no power at 10,20 orange wires on the midgate motor.
Have power going to the midgate circuit, just not sure and going out

midgate circuit is the lower 25 amp circuit

 

that grey breaker third one down from the top does not look like it is sitting like the rest of them. maybe it is not fully seated. if that is the circuit breaker in question then maybe swap it with one of the others or at least see why it is not sitting like the others. maybe there is something down inside keeping it from seating or maybe the connector plug is damaged not allowing it to connect.

 

3rd one down is drivers seat. I pulled that out out as well last the bottom midgate one to try different breakers in each one

 

Don, can you determine with of the 5 connectors is the one that interfaces with the midgate module? If so, you should be able to either check the continuity to the midgate module plug. Perhaps someone on the forum can check the service manual to see exactly which plug
is the one involved with the midgate circuit. Looks like sooner or later Im gonna have to just brake down and purchase a set.

 

looking directly at the panel the two to the left are Body 2 on the top, and body 1 below it. The three on the other side say headliner 3,2,1
won't be able to check until Saturday

 

OK, some progress. confirmed I have power to the circuit panel and power to the two red and white wires on the plug top left of the circuit panel, so assuming the panel is OK.
looks like the wires from the circuit panel start out as red and white, then turn to orange at some part?
Still no power to the orange wires on the plug to the midgate motor.
Ran a wire with a pin attached from the positive battery terminal to one of the orange wires connected to the midgate motor, and when puncturing the wire with the pin giving it 12 volt power, I was able to raise and lower the window with both the window button, and the all down button.
So choices are to follow the wire from the circuit box to the midgate motor, and look for the issue, or simply run a new wire back with a 25 amp fuse and connect to the orange wire.

At least I know the motor, and switches work.

 

Don, that's fantastic! As I see it you have a couple of options,

1. find out the routing of the orange wire and attempt to find the failure point,
2. Run a new fused wire back to the motor, note, if you steal power from a ignition source the auto window roll down feature of the key fob will no longer work so grab 12v from a non switched source.

If someone has the hard copy full set of the manual they should be able to provide the connectors involved and the routing of the wiring, personally if it wasn't a connection problem at a connector or fuse I would run a new wire.
Trying to find a break in an existing harness is very difficult to say the least not to mention all the stuff you might have to unbolt or carpeting you might have to move out of the way.

Anyway, looks like you got bull by the horns now, congrats, and a nice job of troubleshooting, you found it!