The benefit of uploading them here is that the links will always work.

If I upload to a 3rd party site, I use Imgur. It's worked well for as long as I've used it & it's free.

 

Just realized this thread was forgotten....

So anyways a couple of issues. Over the past few months on at least 3 occasions I've noticed my compressor running near continuously including after shutting off and getting out. Still not sure why it would keep running but I'm guessing the oil leaking from the hydroboost was dripping right onto the suspension relay and maybe that was affecting it. Then the weekend before last, off road, a limb got up in the back just right to stab the right rear bag. Rides like a squatted low rider driving it with the butt dragging on the ground. lol

So new rear airbags are on. Very very easy to replace if you have an ability to safely deflate the bags on both sides. You "could" pull the air suspension fuse and then poke a tiny hole from each somewhat up high but be careful as there is pressure and the rear will quickly begin to drop. Once it is all the way down jack the rear up by the frame (letting the rear axle hang), place jack stands for safety, reach up above the air bag, press down on the tab that prevents them from rotating in the upper mount, turn and it drops out. Cut the air line flush (mine would not release no matter what), push the air line into the new bag, rotate it into the bracket. Repeat for the other side. When lowering it back down make sure the air bags line up over the lower mounts. Put the fuse back in, start it up and watch it inflate and check for leaks. Really is very simple. If you have a Tech2 you can go into the AS module functions and deflate it that way which is very simple.

Next up was the hydroboost. Also pretty simple to remove. 2 pipes and a rubber hose on the top, disconnect and have some rags to catch any spilled power steering fluid (basic hydraulic oil). Remove the two bolts holding the brake master cylinder to the hydroboost and pull it back some, there is enough movement in the brake lines to do this. The painful part is the brake pedal clip that holds the hydroboost rod and brake lights switch to the brake pedal arm. That clip is quite infuriating to remove. Then 4 bolts through the firewall - need a short wobbler extension for your ratchet and a deepwell socket. Really not too terrible to get at them. Once those are off, back under the hood and wrangle the hydroboost out. I chose to try a rebuild kit on mine. That is a fiddly bit of kit to install but not terrible.

Finally my 4WD has been acting up only sometimes wanting to go into 4WD and usually just giving me a service 4wd error message. Tech2 says it was an encoder error but you never really know. I found one seller on eBay with a number of brand new OEM bulk packed 4WD actuator motors/encoders https://www.ebay.com/itm/192911197434 for a very good price. He will take an offer for slightly less too... and it is a legit OEM encoder and fast shipped too. Easy peasy to swap. 10mm socket and 10 minutes. You do need to get a little bit of RTV to put around the mounting face of the replacement. Tip - fully remove the current one so that you can better see, get at, and remove the PCA (positive connector assurance) clip on the plug. With the new one on a 4WD modes work perfect again.

When I did the hydroboost I did also note that my brake fluid is pretty much black and that should be clear. Many are not aware that they should and never bother to flush that in the time they have a vehicle and my guess is prior owner(s) of mine never did. So I'll be doing that in the next week or so too. It does make a noticeable improvement in braking on vehicles I've done that on. It also helps greatly to have a Tech2 for flushing the brake system (but not mandatory) as it has a special function for flushing the ABS system. To truly flush every last bit though you really just about need to replace the master cylinder and reservoir and pull each caliper off, pop the pistons out and flush those too.

 

You've been a little busy MixManSC

thanks for the write up,

The bearings and rings finally came in so I now have everything to assemble the bottom end, should get the crank in and start on the rods today, hopefully

Neal

 

After checking fluids and air pressure I parked it in my heated garage for the winter. Love my hummer.

 

Finally got the transmission cooler upgraded and bypassed the radiator. not a bad upgrade at all.

 

That looks like factory. Nice job!

 

Exactly the same set-up as mine. Nice job!

 

Thanks fellows, i did review previous installs here and followed all the tips. Yes it fits perfect factory like. Should i paint it black or leave it.
on to the next performance mod….


This may fix our clicking off of the gas station nozzels

 

Not really the H2 but he pulls it and they share the same spare, I built an offroad camper over the winter from an M116A3 Military trailer


Off-road camper

 

Nice! If you want to lower that it is doable. I did with my military generator trailer. I got a pair of basic GM 8 lug HD truck steel wheels (painted black) and put some 33's on for one. Then we removed the pointless gigantic shocks (I and others cannot figure how those shocks were in any way useful), notched the bars and raised the axle up a few inches. If I remember right that torsion axle is rated for 7000lbs. Now I can even reasonably tow it with the little Blazer (still have to use a 6 inch lift bar on that). Overall reduced the deck height by about 7 inches. Tows great and is just easier to deal with now. I did also have to remove the big steel wheel from the bottom of the jack so that would still be usable (could just get a different jack) which is fine since the wheel was not really useful to me. ON the H2 was original height with the HMMWV wheels, mid shows where I cut and welded to raise the axle, last shows new height on little Blazer.

Probably also reduced the overall weight by a couple of hundred pounds too with those very heavy shocks and massive HMMWV wheels and tires swapped although the 803A genset weighs about 1200lbs by itself and I added a custom aluminum belly tank to the trailer as well (can see that hanging down in the last pic). With the tank full the total weight is close to 4000lbs and it still rides and pulls great. It is an LTT-HC trailer which is near identical to what yours is, just configured for generators.