Hey all, I know this has come up several times, and everyone has their own temporary fix or longer-term fix, but I just wanted to put out there my total fix for this issue. My bushing went out on me for the second time last night, luckily I was just about to reverse park into my drive way. I zip-tied it up and at least got it parked.

I went to Lowes and set out to make a final fix for this issue, and figured I would share my results with anyone who is interested, or if anyone wants me to make you a fix-a-kit I can, and mail it out.

I had a little trial and error with the below parts, but the final products is dead on, and is a total of 1 - 1/4x20x1-1/2 Grade 8 bolt, 1 - 1/4x20 Nylon Lock Nut, 2 - 1/4 Washers, and 1 - 1/4x3/8x1/2 Steel Spacer. I shortened the bolt by about 5mm and the spacer by 2 mm, and the final product was just right.

The first attempt was a little clunky and prevented the shifter to go into 1st, as it was hitting the trans pan. After I cut the bolt and trimmed the bushing down, I cleaned it up and reversed the assembly.








The cable had to be adjusted slightly, by unclipping the black lock on the grey adjustment lock, and after that it shifts perfectly.

Let me know if you all have any questions or would like a kit!

- Coffey

 

by the way that shift arm looks you got lucky removing its retaining nut without sheering it off the transmission like i did and i was removing it by hand no power tools. had to replace the whole selector shaft from inside the transmission.

 

Nice work.

 

bronxteck, yeah I was super scared that was going to happen to me. I figured it would have been rusted like a **** onto the shaft, but def got lucky. Thanks hummerz.

 

That looks like a permanent fix for sure. Bag them up and sell them on feebay.

 

thank you for the idea,
tomorrow I’ll be fabricating mine as well.
your way is the only permanent fix.

it’s interesting how they didn’t use this cheap plastic style on the H1 but they did on H2, it was 4 cents cost saving probably.

on the H1 the metal linkage end connects to transmission and there is cotter pin holding it in place not have any chance of coming out.

 

if your going that route use a nylock nut or locktight your nut

 

i am gonna try to do a little differently.

i am gonna use a longer pin, drill a small hole so i can use cotter pin at the end instead of nut.

 

of I won’t be able to drill a tiny hole at the end of the pin to use cotter pin,
I’ll use nylock for sure, otherwise vibration will make it back out.

 

maybe some thing like this might inspire a solution. maybe someting better then a c-clip but i dont recall how much clearence room there is between tranny and shifter
https://www.atfspeed.com/gm-chevrole...epair-pin.html