I've had a couple of H2s that I could not get the rear left window to function again after it had been working fine. Replacing the switch did not resolve the matter and the issue was not the regulator motor as I confirmed I was not even getting 12v to the motor terminal connector by activating the window switch.

After confirming 12v to the switch I noticed there were 3 other leads of which terminated at the BCM. They were the "Power Window Switch Relay Left Rear Down Control", "Power Window Switch Relay Left Rear Up Control", and "Power Window Lockout Left Rear Signal". All three of these circuits had 12v going to them on the right door which was working correctly, but only 1v on the left door that was inop.

Fearing it was a BCM failure, I tracked these wires that terminate at the C6 connector of the BCM which just so happens to be the only BCM connector you can grab from under the dash.

I have confirmed a loose connections on pins B7, and B8, and it's no wonder why. See attached picture.

The C6 connector, and perhaps all the BCM connectors for that matter only have a 1-sided connector pin. In order to rectify the issue, you have to pull the pin from the plug, and bend out the connector plate again. Unfortunately not the best connector design for such an important, and yet difficult component to service. Regardless, I wish this was the first thing I did before tearing door panels off. Now, I know. So, you might want to try this trick if you have rear window problems and you're fairly certain it is not a regulator.

 

Fantastic information. Thanks!

 

Going to try this for my power door lock that is INOP