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No power to front doors???

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Old 05-04-2022, 02:40 PM
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Default No power to front doors???

Hey all, I am hoping someone can help narrow this down for me.
I had the interior door panels off my 03 H2 and when I put them back on, it appears the front doors are not working. I have power to the mirrors, but I dont have locks, up and down on the window controls, and the red/white door lights are out. I know there isnt any issues because prior to taking the panels off everything worked fine, and even now the rear doors have power and work fine, but the front seem dead. Is there a fuse to check? is there something that I might have missed. I am pretty sure I connected everything back up just right.
 
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Old 05-04-2022, 03:44 PM
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depending on what you where doing in the door maybe you pinched a wire on the harness or a wire broke. check the door harness for continuity end to end.
 
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Old 05-04-2022, 04:27 PM
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Inspect the connectors/pins.



 
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Old 05-04-2022, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jsbihn
Hey all, I am hoping someone can help narrow this down for me.
I had the interior door panels off my 03 H2 and when I put them back on, it appears the front doors are not working. I have power to the mirrors, but I dont have locks, up and down on the window controls, and the red/white door lights are out. I know there isnt any issues because prior to taking the panels off everything worked fine, and even now the rear doors have power and work fine, but the front seem dead. Is there a fuse to check? is there something that I might have missed. I am pretty sure I connected everything back up just right.
Couple of questions.

You say you have power to the mirrors, this suggests they are working is this the case? If you have power to the mirrors this also suggests you have power to the DDM

Does the passenger side window switch work and does the key-fob work? (i.e. does the Passenger Door Module work?)

The DDM and PDM are on separate fuses, oddly enough labelled DDM and PDM both 15A on the left side of dash.

Check DDM Connector C2 (latching 26-way) it may not be plugged-in correctly


 
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Old 05-05-2022, 01:19 AM
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Just to add to what Oceanbrave is saying, and I think he is onto something:

From what I can remember from doing this years ago, there are a few individual connectors (3 or so?) that have to be plugged back in before the door skin is re-attached.
Did you attach all?
Maybe one did not make a good connection?

Which door panels were off?
I remember them being inter-linked, so if you screw up on one, it affects others.
 

Last edited by finall; 05-05-2022 at 01:21 AM.
  #6  
Old 05-05-2022, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by hummerz
Inspect the connectors/pins.

- Hi Hummerz, what exactly am I looking at? and what should I be seeing?
Thanks

Originally Posted by oceanbrave
Couple of questions.

You say you have power to the mirrors, this suggests they are working is this the case? If you have power to the mirrors this also suggests you have power to the DDM

Does the passenger side window switch work and does the key-fob work? (i.e. does the Passenger Door Module work?)

The DDM and PDM are on separate fuses, oddly enough labelled DDM and PDM both 15A on the left side of dash.

Check DDM Connector C2 (latching 26-way) it may not be plugged-in correctly
- Oceanbrave, the two front doors are basically powerless. I say this because I can see that the red/white door panel lights are not coming on. This only happens on the front doors. The rear doors have the red/white door panel lights on. Also, the window switches on both front doors do not work. The all windows will not go up or down if you use the front window switches (yes I am including the front passengers side buttons too). The rear doors though have both the power windows functioning at the power switch. The power locks up front on both front doors will not lock the car doors. I have tried to press and depress the window lock button to see if the little light comes on, but it doesnt. I dont know if the seat heaters are working, I havent checked that yet. The only thing that does seem to work is the side mirrors. I can click the left/ right button and both mirrors will adjust according to the proper position of the button. So that one part works correctly.
I have checked the DDM fuse, but not sure where the PDM fuse is at. I might have to look into it.

To answer the questions. I only had the door panels off of all four doors. I did not remove anything other than what was connected to the door panels. So basically I unscrewed the door handle cover plate, unscrewed the center piece that attaches the handle to the main metal part of the door. Popped the plastic door panel out of the retainer clip holes in the main metal part of the door. Twisted and removed the light and connection out of the red/white panel light. Carefully removed the plugs from the main power controlling units.
Basically that was it.... and then I reinstalled everything back in the same way in reverse order.

I will be looking to remove the front panels (again ugh) to look at my connections, but if everything is connected (as I assume it would be) and the connections are good (as I didnt force anything on)... what else should I check? The fuses? Which one? Where?
It just seems weird that both the front door are basically dead, but both the rear doors are fully functional

Thanks all for the help. Hope to hear back soon


 
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Old 05-05-2022, 10:20 AM
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Tell me you did not do all this to install LED lights in the doors.
LED lights are notorious for causing electrical gremlins on the H2.

If that was the reason for pulling off all 4 door panels, but the old bulbs back and see if that puts everything back to normal.
 
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Old 05-05-2022, 02:17 PM
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To check the DDM connectors there is no need to remove the door panel, it can be popped-out with some plastic panel levers.

As you mirrors are working there MUST BE +12V power on the DDM, also as they are operated by the DDM's Microcontroller so it shows the electronics is working. The mirrors are pretty much wired to connector C4 (10-Way Black)

All the LED and Switches are controlled via serial-data from the Microcontroller so again all this must be also working.

Looking at the wiring diagram and DDM circuit diagram, I see that the Courtesy Lamp power comes from Connector C2 Pin 13 (Dark Blue + White wire) and on the PCB is controlled by the Microcontroller which also monitors the Courtesy voltage and current!

It could be the Courtesy Lamp circuit is either drawing too much current, or not enough current, so the Microcontroller has gone into some kind of shutdown (there may be no DTC for this but worth checking)

So the recommendation by finall to put everything back as it was, looks to be the best course of action.

Perhaps the LED's are drawing too much current and crippling the lamp voltage?

Note the rear door courtesy lamps are handled differently !





 
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Old 05-05-2022, 04:02 PM
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BTW If you have a meter, take one of your old lamps, connect 12V and measure the current, your LEDS should certainly consume no more, but it would be interesting to know what the value is.

I've looked online, but apart from one eBay Chinese supplier who lists 3Watts, I can find not wattage figure for GM 15021517.

However the chip that drives it is a BTS716 has maximum power dissipation is 3.6W, taking 12.5V at 3W this translates to approx 0.25A, not that much really (Chinese could be right)

It's unlikely that an open-circuit courtesy lamp would cause the DDM to malfunction, so the LEDS maybe drawing draw too much.

Just a theory at the moment.
 
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Old 05-05-2022, 04:48 PM
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@oceanbrave

He has not actually admitted to the reason why he pulled off the door panels. I was just guessing that it was for LEDs. The typical reason for someone to pull all door panels.

So not sure this has anything to do with LEDs. We need OP to pipe up!

I have seen LEDs cause circuit problems before on this and car forums. Especially the untested Chinese crap. Hence my suspicion.
 


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