HVAC ISSUE -EVAP Removal
So the AC was working, cooling well enough except when in slow traffic or stopped at lights it seemed to not be pushing cold air until you got moving at a better clip. Took it to the shop and they stated it was the compressor was worn and couldn't keep up. I gave them the GA to replace the compressor, and added that as long as they were under there to replace the belt, tensioner, filter/dryer & expansion valve too. They did. Got it back and not 2 miles from the shop the air quit being ice cold and was just "cool-ish". Went back next day, they blamed it on the fact that the recirculation door was stuck and allowing hot outside air in. I told them it hadn't worked for over a year and was still cooling well all last summer. So they kept it a couple days and then said it must be the condenser so they changed that as well. Said they had 40* air out the vent in the garage. Picked it up and sure enough halfway home the air changed from cold to warmish. So I tore the dash open, changed the recirculation actuator and found that didn't help. Changed the control head and that fixed the recirculation actuator operation. BUT - it didn't make anything any cooler. So back to shop. Freon was half gone! So said they were going to change a Schroeder valve & recharge. They did, but it still won't push air at a temp below 65 out the vents. Owner said he would change out the new compressor under warranty, but still insists its because the evaporator is 23 years old and probably all clogged up. I find that tough to believe. I feel if it was an evap issue/leak it wouldn't have been any good before all the work, and it wouldn't have ever held a vacuum or freon. Soooo....
Has anyone ever gotten into the evap coils to be able to try and clean them? And has anyone taken/dropped the inside unit out to access the evap & heater coils? If so - how involved and are there instructions on how to access the evap coils anywhere?
TIA
Happy Trails to all.....
Has anyone ever gotten into the evap coils to be able to try and clean them? And has anyone taken/dropped the inside unit out to access the evap & heater coils? If so - how involved and are there instructions on how to access the evap coils anywhere?
TIA
Happy Trails to all.....
If the evap is plugged the first thing you will notice is the lack of airflow form the vents, a very cold suction line going to the compressor and a low suction pressure.
Pick up a cheap set of service gauges and see what's going based on the pressures,
Does it stop cooling at low speeds and high speeds, (above 35 mph)?
I looked but don't see what year your H2 is, does it have the "Auto" function and if so does taking it out of auto and driving the temps all the way down have any effect?
Neal
Pick up a cheap set of service gauges and see what's going based on the pressures,
Does it stop cooling at low speeds and high speeds, (above 35 mph)?
I looked but don't see what year your H2 is, does it have the "Auto" function and if so does taking it out of auto and driving the temps all the way down have any effect?
Neal
If the evap is plugged the first thing you will notice is the lack of airflow form the vents, a very cold suction line going to the compressor and a low suction pressure.
Pick up a cheap set of service gauges and see what's going based on the pressures,
Does it stop cooling at low speeds and high speeds, (above 35 mph)?
I looked but don't see what year your H2 is, does it have the "Auto" function and if so does taking it out of auto and driving the temps all the way down have any effect?
Neal
Pick up a cheap set of service gauges and see what's going based on the pressures,
Does it stop cooling at low speeds and high speeds, (above 35 mph)?
I looked but don't see what year your H2 is, does it have the "Auto" function and if so does taking it out of auto and driving the temps all the way down have any effect?
Neal
[QUOTE=PGI Conch;409869]So the AC was working, cooling well enough except when in slow traffic or stopped at lights it seemed to not be pushing cold air until you got moving at a better clip. Took it to the shop and they stated it was the compressor was worn and couldn't keep up. I gave them the GA to replace the compressor, and added that as long as they were under there to replace the belt, tensioner, filter/dryer & expansion valve too. They did. Got it back and not 2 miles from the shop the air quit being ice cold and was just "cool-ish". Went back next day, they blamed it on the fact that the recirculation door was stuck and allowing hot outside air in. I told them it hadn't worked for over a year and was still cooling well all last summer. So they kept it a couple days and then said it must be the condenser so they changed that as well. Said they had 40* air out the vent in the garage. Picked it up and sure enough halfway home the air changed from cold to warmish. So I tore the dash open, changed the recirculation actuator and found that didn't help. Changed the control head and that fixed the recirculation actuator operation. BUT - it didn't make anything any cooler. So back to shop. Freon was half gone! So said they were going to change a Schroeder valve & recharge. They did, but it still won't push air at a temp below 65 out the vents. Owner said he would change out the new compressor under warranty, but still insists its because the evaporator is 23 years old and probably all clogged up. I find that tough to believe. I feel if it was an evap issue/leak it wouldn't have been any good before all the work, and it wouldn't have ever held a vacuum or freon. Soooo....
Has anyone ever gotten into the evap coils to be able to try and clean them? And has anyone taken/dropped the inside unit out to access the evap & heater coils? If so - how involved and are there instructions on how to access the evap coils anywhere?
TIA
Happy Trails to all.....[/QUOTE
if you go on u-tube there is a video on how to remove]the bottom of the evaporator housing with a die-grinder, clean it and replace it with a cabin filter, I have not done this, my H2 it’s 21years old, 218,000 miles on it, I’ve replaced the temperature control, module, and actuators, an a occasional can of Freon every 2-3 years. I have a large refrigeration temperature dial in my vent in the truck stays mostly between 40 to 45° when I’m driving, the air blowing out of the vents is enough to keep the truck cool I’m sure it may have a little dirt on it, but I’m not going to take it apart, we wash our trucks every two weeks and they vacuumed out every two weeks.
I believe that’s what’s extended the life of the evaporator in my vehicles, no one eats or smokes in our vehicles, right now I’m having a transmission cooling issue. I put a fan on the transmission cooler and it made a tremendous difference in the blowing of cold air in the truck when you first started up. truck temperature is usually anywhere between 100 to 120 when you first get in the truck I live in South Florida….
Amco transmission is going to install new coolers transmission coolers on both vehicles and I believe after that I’ll be putting cooling fans electric cooling fans on both trucks for the AC, since it makes a tremendous difference when you first get the truck and turn it on and rolling around town….
Hope this helps….
2004 H2
2006 H3
Has anyone ever gotten into the evap coils to be able to try and clean them? And has anyone taken/dropped the inside unit out to access the evap & heater coils? If so - how involved and are there instructions on how to access the evap coils anywhere?
TIA
Happy Trails to all.....[/QUOTE
if you go on u-tube there is a video on how to remove]the bottom of the evaporator housing with a die-grinder, clean it and replace it with a cabin filter, I have not done this, my H2 it’s 21years old, 218,000 miles on it, I’ve replaced the temperature control, module, and actuators, an a occasional can of Freon every 2-3 years. I have a large refrigeration temperature dial in my vent in the truck stays mostly between 40 to 45° when I’m driving, the air blowing out of the vents is enough to keep the truck cool I’m sure it may have a little dirt on it, but I’m not going to take it apart, we wash our trucks every two weeks and they vacuumed out every two weeks.
I believe that’s what’s extended the life of the evaporator in my vehicles, no one eats or smokes in our vehicles, right now I’m having a transmission cooling issue. I put a fan on the transmission cooler and it made a tremendous difference in the blowing of cold air in the truck when you first started up. truck temperature is usually anywhere between 100 to 120 when you first get in the truck I live in South Florida….
Amco transmission is going to install new coolers transmission coolers on both vehicles and I believe after that I’ll be putting cooling fans electric cooling fans on both trucks for the AC, since it makes a tremendous difference when you first get the truck and turn it on and rolling around town….
Hope this helps….
2004 H2
2006 H3
you can reach the evaporator to clean out the fins by removing the blower rmotor. mine somehow had leaves and debris in it when i had purchased my truck. i used a vacuum and foaming coil cleaner i purchased on amazon but home depot might also sell it. if you have moldy smell in there you can kill it with spray lysol.
if you go on u-tube there is a video on how to remove]the bottom of the evaporator housing with a die-grinder, clean it and replace it with a cabin filter, I have not done this, my H2 it’s 21years old, 218,000 miles on it, I’ve replaced the temperature control, module, and actuators, an a occasional can of Freon every 2-3 years. I have a large refrigeration temperature dial in my vent in the truck stays mostly between 40 to 45° when I’m driving, the air blowing out of the vents is enough to keep the truck cool I’m sure it may have a little dirt on it, but I’m not going to take it apart, we wash our trucks every two weeks and they vacuumed out every two weeks.
I believe that’s what’s extended the life of the evaporator in my vehicles, no one eats or smokes in our vehicles, right now I’m having a transmission cooling issue. I put a fan on the transmission cooler and it made a tremendous difference in the blowing of cold air in the truck when you first started up. truck temperature is usually anywhere between 100 to 120 when you first get in the truck I live in South Florida….
Amco transmission is going to install new coolers transmission coolers on both vehicles and I believe after that I’ll be putting cooling fans electric cooling fans on both trucks for the AC, since it makes a tremendous difference when you first get the truck and turn it on and rolling around town….
Hope this helps….
2004 H2
2006 H3[/QUOTE]
Thanks. I saw someone mention this MOD in another thread. Think I'll try it if I can find the video. Appreciate the feedback.
I believe that’s what’s extended the life of the evaporator in my vehicles, no one eats or smokes in our vehicles, right now I’m having a transmission cooling issue. I put a fan on the transmission cooler and it made a tremendous difference in the blowing of cold air in the truck when you first started up. truck temperature is usually anywhere between 100 to 120 when you first get in the truck I live in South Florida….
Amco transmission is going to install new coolers transmission coolers on both vehicles and I believe after that I’ll be putting cooling fans electric cooling fans on both trucks for the AC, since it makes a tremendous difference when you first get the truck and turn it on and rolling around town….
Hope this helps….
2004 H2
2006 H3[/QUOTE]
Thanks. I saw someone mention this MOD in another thread. Think I'll try it if I can find the video. Appreciate the feedback.
you can reach the evaporator to clean out the fins by removing the blower rmotor. mine somehow had leaves and debris in it when i had purchased my truck. i used a vacuum and foaming coil cleaner i purchased on amazon but home depot might also sell it. if you have moldy smell in there you can kill it with spray lysol.
you can reach the evaporator to clean out the fins by removing the blower rmotor. mine somehow had leaves and debris in it when i had purchased my truck. i used a vacuum and foaming coil cleaner i purchased on amazon but home depot might also sell it. if you have moldy smell in there you can kill it with spray lysol.
you shoul check the drain while you have the blower off. the evap does look a bit grimy. you might need to agitate the cleaner with a brush. might also need a spray bottle with some water to flush it out. the air box drain should let the water out and keep it from dripping inside the cabin. well as long as it is not restricted / clogged.


