Help please! Need guidance to lift H2 body off frame
Thanks to both of you for your suggestions.
@hummerz OK, so I just crawled under the truck. Those 4 lifting points shown in the video are not available on my truck.
There are 3 things in the way, which would involve so much dismantling of the truck, that it is not practical solution.
1. The frame-mounted rock rails - 2 person job to re/re, and PITA.
2. plastic OEM rocker panel cladding (covers on the special edition). Warped from age, likely brittle, don't want to remove them.
3. Plastic body-color fender flares (overlapping the plastic rocker panel cladding at at least those spots). Ditto for removal concerns.
The other option offered by @bronxteck involved using a vertical 4x4 post on a jack:
There is NO jacking point available near the front body mounts.
There is no jacking point available on the A-pillar body mount (as per the info above). @ body mount #2.
There is only enough room at body mount #3 for a 4x4, but pressed against the floor board. Barely, due to e-brake, some sort of vapor canister, etc. on the driver side. So concerning.
Not much room anywhere else on the first 1/2 vehicle length to jack from. The rear, well, no need to look at the back situation until the front is solved. Probably similar situation on the rears.
Any other suggestions. Anyone?
@hummerz OK, so I just crawled under the truck. Those 4 lifting points shown in the video are not available on my truck.
There are 3 things in the way, which would involve so much dismantling of the truck, that it is not practical solution.
1. The frame-mounted rock rails - 2 person job to re/re, and PITA.
2. plastic OEM rocker panel cladding (covers on the special edition). Warped from age, likely brittle, don't want to remove them.
3. Plastic body-color fender flares (overlapping the plastic rocker panel cladding at at least those spots). Ditto for removal concerns.
The other option offered by @bronxteck involved using a vertical 4x4 post on a jack:
There is NO jacking point available near the front body mounts.
There is no jacking point available on the A-pillar body mount (as per the info above). @ body mount #2.
There is only enough room at body mount #3 for a 4x4, but pressed against the floor board. Barely, due to e-brake, some sort of vapor canister, etc. on the driver side. So concerning.
Not much room anywhere else on the first 1/2 vehicle length to jack from. The rear, well, no need to look at the back situation until the front is solved. Probably similar situation on the rears.
Any other suggestions. Anyone?
Check payload spec: 2,200 lbs (support the floorpan)
Are you lifting with any payload?
If not, any Pads made for Pinch Weld will work.
Again, ONLY 1 side at a time, on level ground.
Watch this user error (floor jack going in the wrong direction when lifting)
Last edited by hummerz; Aug 11, 2023 at 08:08 PM.
1. What does payload spec have to do with anything? I do not understand what you are trying to say.
2. I am lifting an empty body. Your spec does not tell me how much the body weighs ex frame/drivetrain.
3. There is no pinch weld on the H2 to lift on in those area.
There is a curved lip tucked way up inside above/ear *some* body mounts. That a pinch weld pad will not work on.
Does not look sturdy, unless someone can tell me they already tried to jack up there and it did not cave in the floor pans.
I am familiar with these and other types of jack pads, and have some types on hand.
Thanks.
2. I am lifting an empty body. Your spec does not tell me how much the body weighs ex frame/drivetrain.
3. There is no pinch weld on the H2 to lift on in those area.
There is a curved lip tucked way up inside above/ear *some* body mounts. That a pinch weld pad will not work on.
Does not look sturdy, unless someone can tell me they already tried to jack up there and it did not cave in the floor pans.
I am familiar with these and other types of jack pads, and have some types on hand.
Thanks.
Last edited by finall; Aug 12, 2023 at 01:01 AM.
1. What does payload spec have to do with anything? I do not understand what you are trying to say.
2. I am lifting an empty body. Your spec does not tell me how much the body weighs ex frame/drivetrain.
3. There is no pinch weld on the H2 to lift on in those area.
There is a curved lip tucked way up inside above/ear *some* body mounts. That a pinch weld pad will not work on.
Does not look sturdy, unless someone can tell me they already tried to jack up there and it did not cave in the floor pans.
I am familiar with these and other types of jack pads, and have some types on hand.
Thanks.
2. I am lifting an empty body. Your spec does not tell me how much the body weighs ex frame/drivetrain.
3. There is no pinch weld on the H2 to lift on in those area.
There is a curved lip tucked way up inside above/ear *some* body mounts. That a pinch weld pad will not work on.
Does not look sturdy, unless someone can tell me they already tried to jack up there and it did not cave in the floor pans.
I am familiar with these and other types of jack pads, and have some types on hand.
Thanks.
Btw, I've lifted 10's of Thousands of vehicles over the years, and know where to lift & when to stop lifting. Look at where you are lifting and if you hear/see anything abnormal, STOP & find a new lift point. Remember you only need a minimal lift, just enough to pull/replace bushings. With body mount bolts removed you are not lifting the frame/engine/trans/tc/axles/etc. If your floor pan is rotted out, you should use longer lifting blocks.
Last edited by hummerz; Aug 12, 2023 at 04:07 PM.
Ok, Now I understand what you are saying. Thanks. I do understand that I only need to lift an inch or two to pull out the upper part of the body mounts, and that is what I expected. And only one side at a time.
Just trying to avoid the trial and error of lifting.
My experience is that once you hear or see something abnormal during jacking, it is too late.
My H2 is pristine, and partially restored to new. So I am being very careful here to not damage anything.
I would hand it over to a shop, but have yet to find anyone that I trust the competency of to do this.
One outfit wanted $2800 and said it would take them 2 days labor.
So obviously they have no clue.
I know backyard mechanics have done it in 2 hours.
But on H2's without all the paraphenalia that mine has.
Simply take a long 2x6" board, place against bottom length of steel rocker, maybe put a blanket between body and wood board, take a couple of jacks (or a jack and some stands), and jack away! Not possible to do with my H2.
Just trying to avoid the trial and error of lifting.
My experience is that once you hear or see something abnormal during jacking, it is too late.
My H2 is pristine, and partially restored to new. So I am being very careful here to not damage anything.
I would hand it over to a shop, but have yet to find anyone that I trust the competency of to do this.
One outfit wanted $2800 and said it would take them 2 days labor.
So obviously they have no clue.
I know backyard mechanics have done it in 2 hours.
But on H2's without all the paraphenalia that mine has.
Simply take a long 2x6" board, place against bottom length of steel rocker, maybe put a blanket between body and wood board, take a couple of jacks (or a jack and some stands), and jack away! Not possible to do with my H2.
Last edited by finall; Aug 12, 2023 at 04:35 PM.
Ok, Now I understand what you are saying. Thanks. I do understand that I only need to lift an inch or two to pull out the upper part of the body mounts, and that is what I expected. And only one side at a time.
Just trying to avoid the trial and error of lifting.
My experience is that once you hear or see something abnormal during jacking, it is too late.
My H2 is pristine, and partially restored to new. So I am being very careful here to not damage anything.
I would hand it over to a shop, but have yet to find anyone that I trust the competency of to do this.
One outfit wanted $2800 and said it would take them 2 days labor.
So obviously they have no clue.
I know backyard mechanics have done it in 2 hours.
But on H2's without all the paraphenalia that mine has.
Simply take a long 2x6" board, place against bottom length of steel rocker, maybe put a blanket between body and wood board, take a couple of jacks (or a jack and some stands), and jack away! Not possible to do with my H2.
Just trying to avoid the trial and error of lifting.
My experience is that once you hear or see something abnormal during jacking, it is too late.
My H2 is pristine, and partially restored to new. So I am being very careful here to not damage anything.
I would hand it over to a shop, but have yet to find anyone that I trust the competency of to do this.
One outfit wanted $2800 and said it would take them 2 days labor.
So obviously they have no clue.
I know backyard mechanics have done it in 2 hours.
But on H2's without all the paraphenalia that mine has.
Simply take a long 2x6" board, place against bottom length of steel rocker, maybe put a blanket between body and wood board, take a couple of jacks (or a jack and some stands), and jack away! Not possible to do with my H2.
Take your time and replace. There are only 12.
Just make sure to remove the bolts first (lift from the frame if you need access to remove the bolts) then drop drown and lift body to remove bushing/replace and insert new bolt to hold in place. You can replace the 6 on 1 side all at once with the side body lifted, or lift at the corner and replace 1-3 at a time.
Btw, after doing calculations on the H2 curb weight 6400lbs, I came up with around 2100lbs body weight without "PAYLOAD".
I might start a separate thread on this but for now, I am also wanting to lift the body off for an engine/trans swap. I have a two post lift for this. If anyone has a list of things that need done, I'd love to see it. I'm sure there are some pitfalls.
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