I need to change the 12 body mounts. I already sourced the new Energy Suspension body mounts and the dozen grade 8 bolts required for the job.
I have a 2007 H2 with factory rock rails. The rock rails are bolted to the frame, and difficult to remove (I recently installed new ones, so this I know).

But now I can not figure out how to lift the body up ONLY ONE SIDE AT A TIME, up 2-3" off the frame, to allow clearance to re/re the body mounts.

I looked under the body.
I can not find any decent jacking points to do this with.
There is stuff under the body, preventing placing something like a board underneath to lift against and distribute the jackiing force.

I have access to a couple of floor jacks and few jack stands. I do not have a lift.

Obviously I am thinking along the wrong lines.
There must be a relatively easy way to jack up one side at a time without driving the jack thru the floorboards.
That is the concern.

So where do you place the jacks to avoid damage? What is the trick to doing this?

The only thing I can think of is to remove the rock rails, and place a 2x6" plank under the rocker panels and *carefully* jack up that way with a couple of jacks.
BUT, I do not want to damage the rockers, as they are clad in plastic trim on the Special Edition models like mine. And that plastic not easy to remove, nor would it ever go on properly again (it is warped from age).

People on this forum have done it. I spoke with one, but his was easy, as he jacked up on the body-mounted aftermarket rock rails he had on his rig. Mine does not have that.
The odd mechanic I spoke with knows how to do this, but none will not tell me. They want big bucks for them to do it.

Thoughts?

 

using a decent jack get a vertical 4x4 as close to the body mounts as you can. you can put a vertical 2x4 across the top to spread some weight. use common sense and do not put it n the center of the floor boards. stick to reinforced areas.

 

@bronxteck Thanks for the reply. But I am missing the whole picture somehow. Have you actually tried what you are proposing?

Anything near the body mounts is floorboards.
And between the ground and floorboards are various things bolted to the undercarriage.
Basically no larger clear space on the floorboards than 6x12" at a time. And only near *some* of the body mounts.
I expect putting a 4x4 post with a 2x4 on top sideways and jacking it up, will cave in the floorboards.
After all, you are likely putting more than a 1000lb of force on that one area. Spreading it out is not an option. Nowhere to spread out the force.
And that is why I am asking for alternative solutions.

For example: Not sure how much 1/2 of the body ex frame weighs. But it it weighs say only 2000lb, lifting 1/2 body at a time = 1000LB.
So if you are using 1 lift point, that 1000lb per 1/2 ft2 (= 2000 lb force per square foot) will surely easily dent even a reinforced rocker?
Rock crawling will massacre a rocker if the body sits on even a small smooth rock (hence need for rock rails).

So what do I do?

 

i was able to use this method to fix 3 of my mounts. i did not release a whole side at a time. just the one i needed to work on and the 2 nearest ones to that on that side. i did not remove the rock rails on some mounts the rock rail came in handy as it is boxed in and keeps the wood from wandering like the b pillar area

 

Great info. Thanks. OK, your method did not cave in the floorpans? That is good to know.

My plan was to release all bolts on one side, and slighly loosen bolts on the other side. So there is no resistance from bolts on the side that I am lifting.

 

 

It's too bad they do not show you how they lifted the body off the frame in that video. Does not help. Plus, I do not have a hoist.

 

Video to show you "lift points", with 4 lift padsholding the H2 body in the air without causing damage.
You only need to lift a bit to pull/replace bushings. Bolts out first, lift just enough to pull/replace bushings.
1 side at a time remove all bolts on the side you're working on, lift at a proper lift point and pull/insert bushing and install new bolt to hold new bushing in place> left loose. After all bushings/bolts are installed on the side you're working on, drop down on level ground and tighten/torque all bolts.

 

@hummerz
Cool. Thanks for the clarification. OK, I understand what you are saying.
Looks like they found the front jack point and a rear jack point at the far corners of where the rockers begin and end.
So there must be a strengthened point there which is hopefully accessible. I will search for those spots.

I will try that and then report back here once done. Should get to it by month end.

 

Thanks to both of you for your suggestions.

@hummerz OK, so I just crawled under the truck. Those 4 lifting points shown in the video are not available on my truck.

There are 3 things in the way, which would involve so much dismantling of the truck, that it is not practical solution.

1. The frame-mounted rock rails - 2 person job to re/re, and PITA.
2. plastic OEM rocker panel cladding (covers on the special edition). Warped from age, likely brittle, don't want to remove them.
3. Plastic body-color fender flares (overlapping the plastic rocker panel cladding at at least those spots). Ditto for removal concerns.

The other option offered by @bronxteck involved using a vertical 4x4 post on a jack:
There is NO jacking point available near the front body mounts.
There is no jacking point available on the A-pillar body mount (as per the info above). @ body mount #2.
There is only enough room at body mount #3 for a 4x4, but pressed against the floor board. Barely, due to e-brake, some sort of vapor canister, etc. on the driver side. So concerning.
Not much room anywhere else on the first 1/2 vehicle length to jack from. The rear, well, no need to look at the back situation until the front is solved. Probably similar situation on the rears.

Any other suggestions. Anyone?