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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
Im looking to replace the exhaust manifolds to get rid of the annoying noise due the broken bolts
any recommendations which brand, where to buy, perform
and mostly what would prevent the the bolts issues again
I will be doing the same. Use manifold studs with the next set. I am told that long tubes that fit Silverado's will fit H2's, so that opens up the buying process a little. You might look at Texas Speed headers or Speed Engineering, they're not cheap but as I've read are well built.
I can say this much. One thing you will notice if you go with an aftermarket set of headers is that it will be louder. You will get a lot more of a "sewing machine" type noise. This is, depending on your taste, desirable if you are wanting more of a performance sound. The fact of the matter is that the thick cast iron stock manifolds greatly reduce the noise of the internal engine workings. All aftermarket headers are constructed of tubing which is simply a lot thinner than the cast iron. That being said you can get them ceramic coated (both as they come or done after you buy them) which can reduce that sound some as well as dramatically reduce underhood heat. Do not use any of the "wraps" for exhaust. While those various wraps do work to an extent in the same way, due to their nature of being a fabric they WILL dramatically shorten the life of any exhaust as they retain and trap moisture as well which over time causes rust, even on stainless steel.
I did put aftermarket stainless headers, as well as from the cat back on mine so full end to end all new stainless exhaust on mine. I think it sounds great and it also helps to get some custom ECM tuning done which can take advantage of the new more free flowing exhaust for more power. Pretty much any headers for a full size GM truck of the same year will fit. Shortys will fit and replace just the upper cast iron manifold section or long tube will fit and go all the way down to the cats. A full long tube "kit" will also include either cats or straight pipes to skips cats and the other section to meet with the stock joints after the cats.
As far as fixing the bolts. I posted about when I did mine. I already had two broken bolts and I had used one of the clamps to fix it. On removing the stock manifolds two more broke and I was able to extract all but one. Those clamps do work just fine and I actually ended up putting the one back on as that was the one bolt I was unable to extract (unless I wanted to pull the engine out or the heads off). This is the clmap
It bolts onto an unused hole on the engine and than you can tighten its bolt against the edge of the manifold/header to close the gap back up. There are two versions depending on which bolt(s) are broken off. They do work great.
As far as replacing the broken bolts. Its a job for sure. Some might extract easy, some might not. Then just get a set of ARP header bolts or studs and you should not have to worry about them again. I actually just went with a generic brand of high quality grade 8 manifold bolts when I did mine. Hard to recommend headers and exhaust to someone as each has their own opinions of what sounds good. I went cheap on the headers and got the OBX kit on eBay which is a full long tube set with high flow cats and Y pipe. That simplifies things as it includes everything to that union underneath where the front and rear halves of the exhaust system meet. From there back you can also get a "cat back" exhaust setup - those are more specific to our H2 as far as fitment goes. If you do want to go with headers just read on any of the GM truck forums and listen to sound clips on youtube, etc. A lot of brands and price ranges to choose from as far as the headers go.
Tharber thanks for the recommendations, If I decide to replace it I will look those companies, better to.spend $$$ once and get it right
Mixman . Great . Since im not interested in better performance or exhaust sound ,I will go fist with the clamps you recommended. If that fix the annoying noise they will.stay for long time
can this be installed without removing anything?
will be great to fix this with minimal $ since I have to look into a low oil pressure issue Im having which is more urgent to solve (hopefully just a bad sensor) ... posting new thread about it ...
You just need to be a contortionist to install the one on the very back bolts. I did it but was sore - getting a wrench on the bolt into the back of the block is pretty much done blind and by feel but those clamps do work great. The link I gave, if you scroll down to where it says "frequently bought together" you can see the other one. There are two styles. One is for the front bolt, the other for the back bolt and can be used on either side of the engine depending on which bolt is broken. On mine is was the back drivers side bolt and like I said, getting a bolt into the gap there between the block and the firewall is not easy but it is doable. I forget which size wrench needed. Once on there though its good to go, you just tighten the side facing bolt that is easier to get to down against the manifold.
The oil pressure sender is also somewhat painful to get at. It is at the back right just behind the intake manifold. It can be removed with the manifold in place. Much easier if the intake is off but no point unless you need to take the intake off for some other reason.... here is a picture of mine with the intake off and the oil pressure sender circled in red. Might help for when you tackle that.... the flatter bit just to the left of it is the camshaft position sensor. This was just after pulling the intake so everything is still very dirty. Suprising amount of leaves, small rocks, etc somehow get under the intake manifold. I had pulled it to change the knock sensors which are the two round plugs in the middle of the valley pan. If you ever do this be very very careful not to let anything get into the intake ports on the heads. My next step right after this was to carefully vacuum any loose debris, then carefully degrease and cleanup the heads around the intake ports. I then, with a very strong shop vac running, carefully scraped a lot of the built up crud out of those intake ports, and then put tape over the ports to be sure nothing would fall into them while I finished.
I should have mentioned that.... Yes to get to the manifold bolts easier jack the front end up, remove the wheel and the wheel well liner which is very easy.
11-27-2018, 12:59 AM
exhaust manifold stainless steel
