Door actuator latch stuck
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 234
From: San Diego
Great News! Glad it worked out.
Hey Oceanbrave, Reading your post is confirming my suspicions on my Driver door lock that it does not work it sounds as if it only get low voltage not enough to push to lock or unlock the door. even after replacement, now seeing this video i will try opening and cleaning or testing what i can in there before looking at buying another.
I apologize, I thought I sent an update last night. The long shot came through!
I ended up having to work the door from the inside by aggressively pushing and pulling and voila it opened up.
wqtba relief
I took everything apart started from scratch and took some extra time to make sure the linkage on the door handle inside had the longest stroke possible and everything's been fine.
Thank you so much to all of you for weighing in I really really appreciate it
I ended up having to work the door from the inside by aggressively pushing and pulling and voila it opened up.
wqtba relief
I took everything apart started from scratch and took some extra time to make sure the linkage on the door handle inside had the longest stroke possible and everything's been fine.
Thank you so much to all of you for weighing in I really really appreciate it
1st Sam! suggestion makes sense, especially since the actuator was changed (alignment?) so well worth trying. I've just been out to my rig and can prevent the latch from operating (opening with outside handle) with my just finger, so any misalignment could well be the problem. You have 3-axis of movement to play with i.e. Up/Down, In/Out and Front/Back so lots to try there.
If alignment is the issue, how on earth this can be set before closing the door is an interesting puzzle, on which I'm sure someone has done before.
Going back to your power door locks issue, this is odd, especially if it's ALL locks. The attached is a wiring diagram for a 2003, the left front actuator is controlled by the DDM, the right by the PDM and the rear relays by the BCU. If it was just the rear locks then that would point to the 20A LOCKS fuse or loos of voltage, however if it is all locks then it could be the DDM (Driver's Door Module) lock switch, especially if the key fob works OK. All locks are controlled are directly (rear) or indirectly (front) by the BCU.
I'm sure you'll solve it so again please keep us posted
If alignment is the issue, how on earth this can be set before closing the door is an interesting puzzle, on which I'm sure someone has done before.
Going back to your power door locks issue, this is odd, especially if it's ALL locks. The attached is a wiring diagram for a 2003, the left front actuator is controlled by the DDM, the right by the PDM and the rear relays by the BCU. If it was just the rear locks then that would point to the 20A LOCKS fuse or loos of voltage, however if it is all locks then it could be the DDM (Driver's Door Module) lock switch, especially if the key fob works OK. All locks are controlled are directly (rear) or indirectly (front) by the BCU.
I'm sure you'll solve it so again please keep us posted
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,635
From: Birmingham (UK)
I apologize, I thought I sent an update last night. The long shot came through!
I ended up having to work the door from the inside by aggressively pushing and pulling and voila it opened up.
wqtba relief
I took everything apart started from scratch and took some extra time to make sure the linkage on the door handle inside had the longest stroke possible and everything's been fine.
Thank you so much to all of you for weighing in I really really appreciate it
I ended up having to work the door from the inside by aggressively pushing and pulling and voila it opened up.
wqtba relief
I took everything apart started from scratch and took some extra time to make sure the linkage on the door handle inside had the longest stroke possible and everything's been fine.
Thank you so much to all of you for weighing in I really really appreciate it
So now onto the intermittent "unlocking to locking or unlocking half way" issue
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,320
From: SC
If you need it, I have an original 2003 DDM (driver door module window switch) that I'd sell for probably $50. Perfect working condition. Only reason I took it out is I added the global windows function (come on 05-07 models) to mine.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,635
From: Birmingham (UK)
Hey Oceanbrave, Reading your post is confirming my suspicions on my Driver door lock that it does not work it sounds as if it only get low voltage not enough to push to lock or unlock the door. even after replacement, now seeing this video i will try opening and cleaning or testing what i can in there before looking at buying another.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 831
From: Pacific NW
I just ran into a problem with my Right Rear door actuator.
I can see it trying to slide the door latch (the lock/unlock slider on inside of vehicle, that your hand goes on to unlock the door).
Sometimes it opens or closes. Other times nothing happens. Yet at other times, it moves it only a little, but not enough to change the current door lock status.
Any ideas on how to test (voltages, etc.) a door lock actuator on the H2? Or thing to try in repairing it?
It appears to be somewhat functional (reacts to voltage/current), but too weak to open or close the lock.
A replacement is a few days away, is costly, and being an "electrical part", is non-returnable if it turns out that it was not required.
Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
I can see it trying to slide the door latch (the lock/unlock slider on inside of vehicle, that your hand goes on to unlock the door).
Sometimes it opens or closes. Other times nothing happens. Yet at other times, it moves it only a little, but not enough to change the current door lock status.
Any ideas on how to test (voltages, etc.) a door lock actuator on the H2? Or thing to try in repairing it?
It appears to be somewhat functional (reacts to voltage/current), but too weak to open or close the lock.
A replacement is a few days away, is costly, and being an "electrical part", is non-returnable if it turns out that it was not required.
Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by finall; Jul 16, 2021 at 02:49 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,320
From: SC
Quite possible that it is just gunked up and you could clean all of the old dried grease that seems to become more of an adhesive than a lubricant over time..... Have to pull the door panel obviously. I'd check all of the plastic linkage rod guides as well since those are often also greased and end up sticking. I've even seen them where the physical button on the door panel starts binding up too on the GM trucks and SUVs which use the same type of slide button.
Then again, could just be a weak lock actuator. The above would confirm though. Just leave the panel off if you do determine that the actuator is just gotten weak until you get the replacement one in.
Then again, could just be a weak lock actuator. The above would confirm though. Just leave the panel off if you do determine that the actuator is just gotten weak until you get the replacement one in.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 831
From: Pacific NW
Thanks for the suggestions MixManSC
The linkage is not binding. It is very smooth. I checked that first.
I did spray lube the lock mechanism. Made no difference. There was no grease on it initially.
That is why I think it may be a weak actuator. But I do not know how to diagnose the actuator itself, to see if it is bad before I order a replacement.
The linkage is not binding. It is very smooth. I checked that first.
I did spray lube the lock mechanism. Made no difference. There was no grease on it initially.
That is why I think it may be a weak actuator. But I do not know how to diagnose the actuator itself, to see if it is bad before I order a replacement.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 831
From: Pacific NW
Thanks Hummerz. I will take it apart first to view any problems inside it, and blow out any junk inside, and clear with electronic cleaner.
Are you aware of any voltage or resistance checks that could tell me if the motor is cooked or OK?
Are you aware of any voltage or resistance checks that could tell me if the motor is cooked or OK?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 831
From: Pacific NW
Open it up and clean/lube inside+take the cover off the motor and clean the commutator and brushes, spray it with electrical contact cleaner, or you can get a replacement, cheap:> 15816391
It is riveted and screwed together. Removing the screws did nothing, not even remove the plastic cover.
The whole assembly shows a few riveted shafts holding the inner and outer steel plates on the latch.
They sandwich the entire assembly.
In short, I can not see a way to dismantle this part without destroying it.
Grinding off the rivets (which are actually shafts), will render the latch unusable as there is no way to reattach the shafts. So that is not an option.
Any suggestions?
