Door actuator latch stuck
I know how to deal with regular rivets. Easy peasy.
Unfortunately I used the term "rivet" loosely (my bad).
Unfortunately these "riveted" ends are shafts that are mushroomed on the ends.
The shafts are functional, and part of the assembly.
Unfortunately I used the term "rivet" loosely (my bad).
Unfortunately these "riveted" ends are shafts that are mushroomed on the ends.
The shafts are functional, and part of the assembly.
Probably about all you can do is use some tiny brushes and carb cleaner (or something effective with old grease) and soak, spray, clean the whole assembly out, let it dry and then lube it. With the lack or space around it I'd guess that no sort of bolts could be used to replace the rivet type shafts. As long as the spring(s) inside of it are good and it moved freely, latches to both positions, and springs back open when released it should be fine. As little use as a back door one gets I seriously doubt it is just worn out.
Binding posts? Maybe. Appreciate the clever suggestion, but not practical for this purpose.
A nail with a mushroomed head from my sledge hammer and punch, even better.
You would have to find a binding post of exactly the right length, or approximate length and then cut it down without mangling the inner thread.
Oh, and exact correct diameter.
That is assuming it can take the same force of the riveted posts.
Then you would have to assume that the OEM posts can be replaced in the first place and that nothing is permanently attached or pressed onto the OEM posts.
Not worth it. I will keep it for a winter project to just grind off the post ends and look inside and see what can be salvaged.
There is oily goo coming out of the old one. And yet oily goo coming out of the new one too.
I thought you guys might know an easier way.
So I had a change of heart, and bit the dealer price bullet.
3 days and actuator was in my hands today.
Immediately I installed it.
Very strong and quick action. Guessing the cheapo tiny motors inside get tired.
Cost 4x as much as a Chinese one, but I really do not want to go inside the door more than necessary.
Sometimes it does not pay to cheap out on a part with Chinese knockoff, as in this case. If a part is easily replaced and accessible, then sure, go for a cheapie.
Happy result. It was the actuator. The old one was clean from the outside, and still looked new.
Do not look forward to replacing the other doors when the time comes.
Especially after breaking a plastic grommet and one door lock rod clip. Now 2 weeks away on order from GM Canada.
No similar knock-off fasteners in stock in all of Canada. Looked everywhere. 7-8 weeks away was the best I could find, other than from the dealer at 15x the price.
And that was being super careful!
All plastic bits on the H2s are getting brittle. Warning to anyone removing plastic interior trim pieces.
Stuff is getting really scarce for these vehicles if you break it.
The H2 must be worth $250K if you parted out every single tiny piece.
A nail with a mushroomed head from my sledge hammer and punch, even better.
You would have to find a binding post of exactly the right length, or approximate length and then cut it down without mangling the inner thread.
Oh, and exact correct diameter.
That is assuming it can take the same force of the riveted posts.
Then you would have to assume that the OEM posts can be replaced in the first place and that nothing is permanently attached or pressed onto the OEM posts.
Not worth it. I will keep it for a winter project to just grind off the post ends and look inside and see what can be salvaged.
There is oily goo coming out of the old one. And yet oily goo coming out of the new one too.
I thought you guys might know an easier way.
So I had a change of heart, and bit the dealer price bullet.
3 days and actuator was in my hands today.
Immediately I installed it.
Very strong and quick action. Guessing the cheapo tiny motors inside get tired.
Cost 4x as much as a Chinese one, but I really do not want to go inside the door more than necessary.
Sometimes it does not pay to cheap out on a part with Chinese knockoff, as in this case. If a part is easily replaced and accessible, then sure, go for a cheapie.
Happy result. It was the actuator. The old one was clean from the outside, and still looked new.
Do not look forward to replacing the other doors when the time comes.
Especially after breaking a plastic grommet and one door lock rod clip. Now 2 weeks away on order from GM Canada.
No similar knock-off fasteners in stock in all of Canada. Looked everywhere. 7-8 weeks away was the best I could find, other than from the dealer at 15x the price.
And that was being super careful!
All plastic bits on the H2s are getting brittle. Warning to anyone removing plastic interior trim pieces.
Stuff is getting really scarce for these vehicles if you break it.
The H2 must be worth $250K if you parted out every single tiny piece.
Last edited by finall; Aug 1, 2021 at 12:12 AM.
For sure hope non of us have to do one more door lock actuator, but keep your tools and spare door clips handy, add super glue, epoxy and mesh handy almost every time have to work with the interior plastic panels something breaks crack or was broken previously. and already have done two door lock actuators and one window regulator repair. I disabled the auto lock the doors when in drive features to minimize unnecessary uses.
H2 " not for the faint of tools"
[QUOTE If a part is easily replaced and accessible, then sure, go for a cheapie.
Happy result. It was the actuator. The old one was clean from the outside, and still looked new.
Do not look forward to replacing the other doors when the time comes.
Especially after breaking a plastic grommet and one door lock rod clip. Now 2 weeks away on order from GM Canada.
No similar knock-off fasteners in stock in all of Canada. Looked everywhere. 7-8 weeks away was the best I could find, other than from the dealer at 15x the price.
And that was being super careful!
All plastic bits on the H2s are getting brittle. Warning to anyone removing plastic interior trim pieces.
Stuff is getting really scarce for these vehicles if you break it.
The H2 must be worth $250K if you parted out every single tiny piece.[/QUOTE]
H2 " not for the faint of tools"
[QUOTE If a part is easily replaced and accessible, then sure, go for a cheapie.
Happy result. It was the actuator. The old one was clean from the outside, and still looked new.
Do not look forward to replacing the other doors when the time comes.
Especially after breaking a plastic grommet and one door lock rod clip. Now 2 weeks away on order from GM Canada.
No similar knock-off fasteners in stock in all of Canada. Looked everywhere. 7-8 weeks away was the best I could find, other than from the dealer at 15x the price.
And that was being super careful!
All plastic bits on the H2s are getting brittle. Warning to anyone removing plastic interior trim pieces.
Stuff is getting really scarce for these vehicles if you break it.
The H2 must be worth $250K if you parted out every single tiny piece.[/QUOTE]
best investment for the cracking plastics issue for me was this https://www.michaels.com/walnut-holl.../10327706.html between yellow and orange is the sweet spot!
Binding posts? Maybe. Appreciate the clever suggestion, but not practical for this purpose.
A nail with a mushroomed head from my sledge hammer and punch, even better.
You would have to find a binding post of exactly the right length, or approximate length and then cut it down without mangling the inner thread.
Oh, and exact correct diameter.
That is assuming it can take the same force of the riveted posts.
Then you would have to assume that the OEM posts can be replaced in the first place and that nothing is permanently attached or pressed onto the OEM posts.
Not worth it. I will keep it for a winter project to just grind off the post ends and look inside and see what can be salvaged.
There is oily goo coming out of the old one. And yet oily goo coming out of the new one too.
I thought you guys might know an easier way.
So I had a change of heart, and bit the dealer price bullet.
3 days and actuator was in my hands today.
Immediately I installed it.
Very strong and quick action. Guessing the cheapo tiny motors inside get tired.
Cost 4x as much as a Chinese one, but I really do not want to go inside the door more than necessary.
Sometimes it does not pay to cheap out on a part with Chinese knockoff, as in this case. If a part is easily replaced and accessible, then sure, go for a cheapie.
Happy result. It was the actuator. The old one was clean from the outside, and still looked new.
Do not look forward to replacing the other doors when the time comes.
Especially after breaking a plastic grommet and one door lock rod clip. Now 2 weeks away on order from GM Canada.
No similar knock-off fasteners in stock in all of Canada. Looked everywhere. 7-8 weeks away was the best I could find, other than from the dealer at 15x the price.
And that was being super careful!
All plastic bits on the H2s are getting brittle. Warning to anyone removing plastic interior trim pieces.
Stuff is getting really scarce for these vehicles if you break it.
The H2 must be worth $250K if you parted out every single tiny piece.
A nail with a mushroomed head from my sledge hammer and punch, even better.
You would have to find a binding post of exactly the right length, or approximate length and then cut it down without mangling the inner thread.
Oh, and exact correct diameter.
That is assuming it can take the same force of the riveted posts.
Then you would have to assume that the OEM posts can be replaced in the first place and that nothing is permanently attached or pressed onto the OEM posts.
Not worth it. I will keep it for a winter project to just grind off the post ends and look inside and see what can be salvaged.
There is oily goo coming out of the old one. And yet oily goo coming out of the new one too.
I thought you guys might know an easier way.
So I had a change of heart, and bit the dealer price bullet.
3 days and actuator was in my hands today.
Immediately I installed it.
Very strong and quick action. Guessing the cheapo tiny motors inside get tired.
Cost 4x as much as a Chinese one, but I really do not want to go inside the door more than necessary.
Sometimes it does not pay to cheap out on a part with Chinese knockoff, as in this case. If a part is easily replaced and accessible, then sure, go for a cheapie.
Happy result. It was the actuator. The old one was clean from the outside, and still looked new.
Do not look forward to replacing the other doors when the time comes.
Especially after breaking a plastic grommet and one door lock rod clip. Now 2 weeks away on order from GM Canada.
No similar knock-off fasteners in stock in all of Canada. Looked everywhere. 7-8 weeks away was the best I could find, other than from the dealer at 15x the price.
And that was being super careful!
All plastic bits on the H2s are getting brittle. Warning to anyone removing plastic interior trim pieces.
Stuff is getting really scarce for these vehicles if you break it.
The H2 must be worth $250K if you parted out every single tiny piece.
best investment for the cracking plastics issue for me was this https://www.michaels.com/walnut-holl.../10327706.html between yellow and orange is the sweet spot!



