It took two full weekends to give the H2 a complete going through and replacing whatever looked questionable. I've pulled many front differentials, and I have to admit this one is truly a beast. Much heavier than an Escalade or an F-250 front differential, but manageable with a transmission jack. New oil cooler lines, oil pan gasket, pick up tube o-ring, power steering pressure lines, flexible section of transmission cooling line, new starter, new AC compressor, receiver dryer and orifice tube. Oil pressure sending unit, camshaft position sensor, Valley plate gasket and knock sensors. Threw on a set of red valve covers with the updated baffle inside for the PVC since I was going after the gaskets anyway . All hoses belts and tensioners and the four core aluminum radiator. Transmission fluid and filter, transfer case and differentials changed out. Both the water pump, alternator and battery appear to be brand new so I left them as is.

today after work I start putting fluids in, charge the AC system and bleed the power steering. After I get the engine restarted in the AC charged and verify no leaks, I'll go ahead and flush the power steering system.

just over 100,000 miles and was a little surprised at so many minor leaks. Was pleasantly surprised that the rear main looks dry as does the front crankshaft seal. Oil pan was very clean and the original o-ring was still soft and pliable although a little bit flat. Still had the original oil pan gasket riveted to the oil pan.

This is definitely a great way to get to know one's vehicle. The biggest takeaway I received from the experience was that front differential. Once it's completely removed from the vehicle, you have easy access not only to the oil pan but to the power steering pressure hose that mounts on the lower back side of the pump. Even the AC compressor was more accessible for the lower two bolts. And of course the oil cooler lines.

one item of note is that I didn't like the oil pick up tube. The flange on the end of it that the bolt goes through is loose on the end unlike the newer models. I had an extra pick up tube for the later model 2014 Escalade with a 6.2 so I used that and installed a girdle utilizing both bolts on the oil pump. That was also for Peace of Mind as I know it uses the red o-ring.

when I bought it it also came with the K&N cold air intake system. Couldn't stand the noise of the intake hissing every time you put your foot down. Got a hold of an original resonator tube and air box.

almost forgot, new cable under the back seat as the old one had the end broken off, and a new HVAC control unit in the dash as the dials would randomly select temperatures way up or way down but nothing in between.

there's no way I would never sell this. Even my wife noted that it drives better than her 2014 Escalade.

 

This is how you know your AC compressor is shot. Check out the metal flakes in the orifice tube

 

You have a sunroof?

 

That is a lot of work, you are so lucky as I am, that we can do this stuff ourselves. Great Job!

 

Yes, I have the sunroof. I also have the little brush on the end of the Twisted wire about 4 ft long to clean out the drains. No leaks and operates like it should.

 

All that work wrapped up and so many minor leaks fixed. Still up on jack stands and it purrs like a kitten.... recharge the AC system, did a proper vacuum fill on the cooling system. 45 minutes running and I finally spot a drip of oil from the dreaded rear main. So I guess this coming weekend I will be pulling the transmission and transfer case. Definitely a good way to get to know your new vehicle
and of course I have an addiction to taking care of things " while I'm in there"... so I will be putting new seals in the transfer case and new U-joints in the driveshafts. Going with improved Racing's oil galley barbell, and I'll try the felpro rear main kit. Already have the tool to line up the rear cover.

 

Perfct.
A lot of hummer owners getting the drain problem over the years.

 

I clean the drains at least twice a year on each of our vehicles with the sunroofs. If you let it go too long and debris builds up and packs in, it can be quite a job clearing it. I use the little brush on the long wire, readily available on Amazon.

Long Wire Brush sunroof Drain Cleaning Tool for car and Fridge 60-inch X 2/5 inch https://a.co/d/7xRBLR1

 

Only thing I'd suggest on the sunroof is to avoid opening it (slide back open, tilt seems to not be affected as much) as it is driven by a cable that has plastic gearing molded onto the length of the cables. Over the years that plastic coating starts to degrade and there is no new replacement or fix available. Once bits of the plastic start coming off of the cable it will just stop moving at that spot and most often seems to affect closing. It can still be closed but once that happens, the only way to close it is to use a second hand and manually push it back forward while holding the button until it gets past that spot. The only fix is to replace the entire sunroof frame assembly (which is only available used now and a big project to replace) under the headliner. I had mine out once and took it completely apart to really see what was happening when I had the headliner redone. Over the past 6 years or so I've seen over a dozen others with the exact same problem developing.... I do have a theory though which could be possible. Maybe its just ones that were improperly cleaned or lubricated at some point in their life with a grease or oil that slowly degrades that molded plastic covering on the cables. Hard to say for certain but it is definitely something to consider. If you just remove the sunroof motor under the front roof console you can just see the cables that the gear on the motor meshes with.

 

Good to know. I will probably avoid using it. It's hard to say what the plastic will do at 20 years old. I just replaced half the wiring harness plastic Loom stuff and the engine bay that would crumble to dust in my hand. Strangely, only on the passenger side of the engine bay. Speaking of degrading plastic, got rid of the stupid GM heater hose quick connect fittings. Just slid new heater hose over the metal nipples and used Factory spring clamps. Looks really good if you can get your head down there to actually see them