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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
so as not to hijack the motor mount thread where someone brought up body mounts,
the mounts seem be the same kit as a tahoe, hi energy suspension actually lists them for the hummer.
anyway with full anticipation of some if not all bolts snapping due to rust, has anyone done them all?
in the past ive done mounts on pickups and blazers i drilled a 1 inch hole in the floor pan to remove the captured
nut on a broken bolt. is that still gonna be the answer?
so as not to hijack the motor mount thread where someone brought up body mounts,
the mounts seem be the same kit as a tahoe, hi energy suspension actually lists them for the hummer.
anyway with full anticipation of some if not all bolts snapping due to rust, has anyone done them all?
in the past ive done mounts on pickups and blazers i drilled a 1 inch hole in the floor pan to remove the captured
nut on a broken bolt. is that still gonna be the answer?
I've replaced hundreds body mount bushings over the years for my customers, NEVER drilled the floor pan!
Impact wrench reverse forward to vibrate the bolt back and forth until free without breaking, air hammer with blunt tip on the bolt head to vibrate the bolt loose, PB Blaster sprayed up into the threads, and sometimes a gas wrench and vise grips when the bolt breaks.
DO NOT REUSE THE BOLTS!
Mushroom cap? I'm assuming that's a captured nut up on top that seizes to the bolt frequently? And if you go to break it loose you risk the nut spinning?
yes thats why in the past i have drilled a hole in floorboard using a hole to get captured nut loose then reweld the hole back closed. using the plug i drilled out id rather do it that way than cut open body mount channel but to each his own method
i have results both ways but im guessing trying to slowly remove bolt with a ratchet may help out
snapping bolts with an impact but ive had both methods work
I'm glad they don't use salt on the road where I live. 2003 with no rust. Instead they sprinkle volcanic cinders.... Leaves red dust everywhere but it washes off easy enough. Regardless, if I had to do body mounts I think I'd go with stainless steel hardware with lots of anti-sieze on the threads....
look in the video at 2:40 minutes in there is a metal cap that looks like a mushroom that you have to transfer to the new body mounts. it gets inserted between the body and the top bushing. they rot out. in the video his are not in the best shape.
this one has a rubber bushing installed.
Last edited by bronxteck; Dec 1, 2024 at 02:06 PM.
Crawled under the H2 to inspect all my body mounts. The rear most body mounts seem to be exposed to the most road spray and whatnot. Pleasantly surprised to find they are intact, and if you push on them with your finger there's still somewhat soft. OEM? I don't know....
bringing back up my old thread on body mounts, I was getting ready to order
the urethane body mount kit, and started to research where I was going to buy
new body bolts, went to rock auto and saw the single body mount kit (need 12)
which includes bolt and mount was now only $18.99 a piece. all 12 with shipping
and tax was $249 cheapest i saw urethene kit with shipping was close to $300
then another $80-$100 for the bolts. while I do like urethane they can be firm enough
to feel new vibrations thru frame. oem rubber ones lasted 20 years im sure rock auto
ones should last another 20 was actually shocked at how heavy each mount actually is,