When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
OK tried to learn level again keeping it under 3.0volts went with 2.92V. Didn’t learn, then dropped it to 2.82V just for the hell of it and it took the learn. So I guess the threshold for learn is somewhere between 2.82 and 2.91V. Didn’t want to mess with it anymore so just left it there. Better than it was and close to what I wanted.
thanks for all the help guys.
Good job, gland you've fixed it !
So
your Tech2 works ✔️
the AS Module is AOK ✔️
from MixManSC you'll know how to adjust the sensors and also his data range of 2.06V > 2.88V (2.47V +/- 0.41V) is accurate.✔️
finall actually thought about this, they look like below:-
Filament 3-D printed blocks may or may not be strong enough, but easier to make than machining aluminum, its a static load but the only way may be to try.
Of course the plastic models could be used to sand-cast some aluminum ones, so numerous options.
I'm happy to make a 3-D CAD model based on the shapes above, dimensions taken from my truck and the notes from hummerz post below:-
"CH-47816 Calibration Blocks are 5-3/16" long, measure from the metal flange at the top of the bump stop to where the bump stop contacts the diff housing. Set it at this height by lifting on the bumper hitch and calibrate from there."
If someone is willing to risk it that is
I do have a laser 3D printer but it's expensive to run so offline at the moment, the alternative is to get them made by an online 3D printing service.
1st things 1st - the model !
ps there may be an easier way to do this - I need to look into it.
Last edited by oceanbrave; Jul 1, 2023 at 07:05 PM.
I have a couple of machine shops here that could CNC them easily enough out of aluminum. But they would need a CAD file or 3D scan, or similar.
If someone has a set, even a plaster or resin mold of one would go a long ways.
And I am sure they could be made up for a fraction of what they cost from Kent Moore. Such a scam price they are charging. But would need the specs to get an accurate quote first.
Or, Anyone could just walk the file to their local CNC fabricator, and knock out a set.
Would be of immense help to the Hummer community.
For anyone else reading this post, please express your interest in these on this thread.
Not sure why we all did not think of this years ago.
finall this is a very quick model of the the H2 Rear Suspension Jounce assembly (I'm calling it "jounce" is this the right terminology?)
So forgive my "Brit" description, we have the "Jounce Cup" mounted on the top chassis member
Pushed into this is the rubber jounce or "Bump Stop"
Lastly, sketched around this is the proposed "Calibration Block"
Problem 1
What I'm missing are accurate dimensions of the Cup and Bump Stop. I have examined mine but they're messy and I fear extracting the rubber might cause problems, so if anyone out there has a bump-stop they could measure up it would help.
Bravo to bronxteck I see he did some fantastic work in reconstructing and repairing the bump-stop cups, I was able to get a few measurements from this.
Problem 2
It is my interpretation that the distance that's needing to be set is "D" above i.e. the distance from the lower chassis frame to the "rim" of the cup and this is 5 3/16" or 5.1875" or 131.8mm
Is this correct?
Also I would imagine the reason the calibration block is cut-away is so it can be slid into place over the rubber bump-stop?
his also raises the question of how they are help in place whilst lowering the suspension, something to think about?
So this is a start, nothing I've drawn up is accurate and its just a visual aid at the moment. I tend to think there is an easier, simpler cost effective solution, just need so time to think about it.
I'm happy to make a 3-D CAD model based on the shapes above, dimensions taken from my truck and the notes from hummerz post below:-
"CH-47816 Calibration Blocks are 5-3/16" long, measure from the metal flange at the top of the bump stop to where the bump stop contacts the diff housing. Set it at this height by lifting on the bumper hitch and calibrate from there."
If someone is willing to risk it that is
Safe & secure to lift with floor jack centered on hitch frame, since you are not lifting the wheels off the ground.
You can also use 2
to secure frame. Safety first when crawling under, yet I can crawl under my 3 without a jack. Depressurized air suspension may impenetrable? RAISE/LOWER & SUPPORT & CHECK/ADJUST height as needed on both sides, then start the calibration. The measurement is 5-3/16" or (5.2in) as you posted above:
so has anyone tried just sandwitching a piece of 2 x 4 and see if that is "calibrated" we just might be overthinking the "tool"
the only thing that tool would not change the dimensions if the jounce is worn like a 2 x 4 would
Last edited by bronxteck; Jul 3, 2023 at 10:21 AM.
hummerz your technique is pretty much how I calibrated mine, and bronxteck I'm with you on simplicity.
All that said, it would be great to have some kind-of little gizmos, simple and cheap to make, to put in the tool box, perhaps not 2 x 4 but possibly some 5" pipe cut in half?
hummerz your technique is pretty much how I calibrated mine, and bronxteck I'm with you on simplicity.
All that said, it would be great to have some kind-of little gizmos, simple and cheap to make, to put in the tool box, perhaps not 2 x 4 but possibly some 5" pipe cut in half?
Indeed 2x4's are weak! I've only used 4x4's when lifting/securing & performing many repairs underneath in the past. 2-4x4's will support any vehicle at a 45° angle.
Btw, you could measure D height to 5-3/16" and find a different point to secure 4x4's, maintaining D height. Then depressurize system & calibrate:
Aluminum tube stock 4" 10swg x 5 3/16" is cheap, may be $5 cut-to-length, it would look something like this (tube shown transparent
Perhaps with some spring clips and hold it in place.
