Well this has me stumped. So I'm getting about 48-50 deg's out of vents. The compressor is working, I can see it turn off/on with snowflake button. I've checked the system with two different gauges and it's maxed out, right at the red line for outside temp so I can't add any more. And it didn't need any added before I've noticed this issue. I checked it last year about this time and it's in the same place so I don't think there's a leak but it used to be colder than this last year. So what else could it be?

I've had to replace two actuators. Recently, I replaced the defrost actuator on top and the pass side actuator last year. The driver's side one I have not replaced, the part there seems to be damaged so I just turn it manually and leave it unplugged. Summer I have the vents open, winter I turn it back for defrost/floor. But that one shouldn't effect the temperature I wouldn't think. I read there is one more on pass side, I think I found it under there near the blower. Would that one effect temperature? I know it should be much colder than this like in the 30-35F range but it's about 20 deg. warmer. Temperature settings are set to 60F on both.

 

What's the ambient temp? I just checked mine(closed all vents except 1 center, to insert thermometer) Turn fan on lowest setting.
My results: 102° (ac off) 44° (ac on) ambient 92°

 

It was 85 outside when checked. I didn't check ambient, I'll check next time. I was measuring with a flash point gauge pointing inside the vents. I think I may need another tool, it's probably reading surface temp of the vents inside which should be pretty close. I let it run awhile to get it as cold as possible.

I pulled on pass side near blower motor what I thought was an actuator. It goes into the duct line. Not sure what function that one does. It's similar to a resistor on Ford Escape that keeps blowing. But on that vehicle the lower fan settings stop working. Might be what this part does, but it's not an actuator. Has blades, probably to read temp from the blower. Weirdly, it has the word "BAD" written on it. Maybe it was refurbished.

 

You lost me... If you are concerned the blend door is not working, check vent temp while changing the h/c setting, yet it wouldn't drop 40° below ambient if the blend door wasn't working. Btw, is the ac compressor short cycling?
Also, do you own a cooking thermometer to stick into the center vent? This is what I use:

 

Did a couple more tests. I drove it and tested it on two short trips. It was 94 deg inside on first trip. On the way home it was measuring about 55 from center vent. Second trip, it was 85 deg inside and the coldest I measured was about 54 deg from center vent. It cooled the front seat down to 75 or so, but not that hot on second trip. One thing I noticed, we drove on highway 75mph yesterday and had the blower on high the entire time, like 3.5hr drive. Normally, it will freeze you out on high so I end up turning it down after about 10 minutes but now it has to be on high to make any difference. Last year, it didn't do this so something's different.

So for actuators only the blend door would effect? I don't think that's it then. It's pushing out about 53-55 degs. coldest. I think it should get colder than that around 45 degs. Short cycling, I take it that would mean the compressor would shut off. No, it never shuts off, that I can tell.

 

Short cycling: ac compressor clutch engaging/disengaging repeatedly within seconds. Post your pressure readings

 

Yeah, it's not doing that. If anything it never shuts off. On gauge, it was 85 deg outside when I checked and it read about 52 psi for low. I didn't check high side, I am just using the AC Pro gauge. The high number on the same gauge says approx. 370 psi.

 

ac compressors cycle. How are you getting 370psi? The ac compressor would implode.

 

52 is too high. it can be too much refrigerant, air in the lines or you might have a worn out compressor or the orofice tube might be clogged. if the orofice tube is contaminated then your system needs professional assistance as it will most probably need first an evac of refrigerant a new condenser new compressor new receiver dryer evaporator plus line flush new gaskets a vacuum pulled on the system a test for leaks incase the evap coil is bad, proper amount of oil and the correct amount of refrigerant added by weight. so way more then what a gauge set can do for you.

 

Maybe I'm not reading the gauge right. I just checked it again. It's 84 deg out.

edit: Oh, that's kPa. I was looking at. I didn't check the high. Earlier it was within those red lines about where the second red line is now.