ABS Traction Control Lights on
#1
ABS Traction Control Lights on
Hello all.
I just had new brake lines installed and now I have ABS and traction control lights on. They have turned off but then they come back on. I pulled the module plug and it was full of brake fluid. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. I did not clean the module side of the plug due it being unreachable. Do you think I should make sure all is clean and dry before I assume bad module?
I just had new brake lines installed and now I have ABS and traction control lights on. They have turned off but then they come back on. I pulled the module plug and it was full of brake fluid. I cleaned it and reinstalled it. I did not clean the module side of the plug due it being unreachable. Do you think I should make sure all is clean and dry before I assume bad module?
#3
Here's the thing, brake fluid is conductive and can have an electrolysis effect on any connectors exposed to it.
Conductivity depends on the type/make of brake fluid, moisture content and contaminants, older worn fluid being more conductive. Cheap electrical brake fluid testers are available on amazon such a multimeter can also be used, but electrical analysis is not super accurate. Just ran some tests on the bench with some new Dot 4, not only is it conductive but it can be charged like a battery to produce voltage, very interesting.
This above suggests a potential problem here, especially if fluid has migrated on to the module's internal circuitry.
Of course retrieve the DTC's 1st, however further decontamination may be advisable, but never use brake cleaner on plastic parts.
Conductivity depends on the type/make of brake fluid, moisture content and contaminants, older worn fluid being more conductive. Cheap electrical brake fluid testers are available on amazon such a multimeter can also be used, but electrical analysis is not super accurate. Just ran some tests on the bench with some new Dot 4, not only is it conductive but it can be charged like a battery to produce voltage, very interesting.
This above suggests a potential problem here, especially if fluid has migrated on to the module's internal circuitry.
Of course retrieve the DTC's 1st, however further decontamination may be advisable, but never use brake cleaner on plastic parts.
#5
#6
hummerz you may well be right, sounds logical.
Anyway two possibilities here, so may be a two-pronged approach?
The ABS Module uses sealed connectors which is good news, any contamination may be removed with a good IPA based evaporative aerosol spray with a nozzle-pipe, this and some absorbent swabs (cotton buds) should help. A good mirror, lights and a lot of patience will help.
The way the ABS module is orientated its connector acts like a "cup" so see if fluid has actually got in there and if so carefully clean it out spraying and swabbing around the pins. Clean the harness connector too allowing any residues to drip out under gravity.
Tip: - Wear latex gloves to avoid touching the contacts with your bare fingers as natural skin oils and grease are acidic and corrosive.
These are images are taken from Hummertime1 's earlier post, something you don't want to happen (always wondered how that one went?)
Do not use WD40 or oil based cleaners as oil acts like a barrier, the exact opposite of what you want.
Corroded connectors are resistive -> resistance produces heat -> heat accelerates corrosion and so on --> it's "Catch-22"
Anyway two possibilities here, so may be a two-pronged approach?
The ABS Module uses sealed connectors which is good news, any contamination may be removed with a good IPA based evaporative aerosol spray with a nozzle-pipe, this and some absorbent swabs (cotton buds) should help. A good mirror, lights and a lot of patience will help.
The way the ABS module is orientated its connector acts like a "cup" so see if fluid has actually got in there and if so carefully clean it out spraying and swabbing around the pins. Clean the harness connector too allowing any residues to drip out under gravity.
Tip: - Wear latex gloves to avoid touching the contacts with your bare fingers as natural skin oils and grease are acidic and corrosive.
These are images are taken from Hummertime1 's earlier post, something you don't want to happen (always wondered how that one went?)
Do not use WD40 or oil based cleaners as oil acts like a barrier, the exact opposite of what you want.
Corroded connectors are resistive -> resistance produces heat -> heat accelerates corrosion and so on --> it's "Catch-22"
#8
#9
you could also send it out to get fixed. $150. Www.upfix.com. I used them for my old corvette and it worked like a charm.