ABS Module
#21
10-29-2021, 11:56 AM
The Delphi connector (all 5 of them lol) arrived from Nexus in the US today and thankfully it fits perfectly into the BCM. The connector is just the plastic molding with no pins etc so the auto electrician will need to sort that out. That's not a job I would even attempt myself.
Waiting on the replacement module to arrive and then I will get it booked in to be rewired and installed. Fingers crossed!
Waiting on the replacement module to arrive and then I will get it booked in to be rewired and installed. Fingers crossed!
Hummertime1
A heads-up on a couple of things regarding the connector you've probably ordered by now.
It's not clear if the connector comes with "pins" or any other assembly parts, quite often connectors are supplied with pins/brackets/fittings/strain-relief etc sold separately, so it's worth investigating so you can get these on order ahead of time.
It seems Delphi connectors were acquired or renamed to APTIV, and the Delphi 15326390 has become "APTIV GT 150 280" (see attached pdf)
If you go to Mouser's web site here and search for APTIV GT 150 280 (no quotes) you'll find a page show all kind of parts and pins etc, quite frankly I'm not sure what you will be getting.
I'm not suggesting going through Mouser, but at least you may find the part numbers of any pins (if you need them) or any datasheets.
Unfortunately it's a bit of a minefield, but very typical of the electronics industry.
One more important thing, the contacts are most likely "crimp" contacts. Normally the manufacture sell a specific tool for their pin and these tools are expensive. You can't use just any tool (especially the familiar 1/2" spade types) and its hard to solder them as it makes inserting them into the connector housing very difficult afterwards.
Obviously without seeing the crimp pins up-close it's hard to know what size and form of tool you will need, but to give you an idea I found this one on eBay, which will give you an idea of what to look for (it's from Japan)
A technique I've used in the past, is to buy a cheap tool with multiple sizes, then start with the nearest, larger, size and then work down the sizes and keep crimping until you get the one that fits best. Too big and the wire comes out, too small an the tool chops-off the crimp flanges.
The most important things are, there are no missing wire strands, the wire insulation is also crimped by the larger flanges and pull on the the wire and make sure it cannot pull-out.
This may all sound complicated but the job needs doing very carefully, it's worth buying extra pins and practising with some similar sized spare wire until you get it right. Don't practice putting the pins in, because once in they are never coming out.
Hopefully everything works-out OK
BTW you can always open-up the old connector as it can never be re-used and is scrap anyway.
A heads-up on a couple of things regarding the connector you've probably ordered by now.
It's not clear if the connector comes with "pins" or any other assembly parts, quite often connectors are supplied with pins/brackets/fittings/strain-relief etc sold separately, so it's worth investigating so you can get these on order ahead of time.
It seems Delphi connectors were acquired or renamed to APTIV, and the Delphi 15326390 has become "APTIV GT 150 280" (see attached pdf)
If you go to Mouser's web site here and search for APTIV GT 150 280 (no quotes) you'll find a page show all kind of parts and pins etc, quite frankly I'm not sure what you will be getting.
I'm not suggesting going through Mouser, but at least you may find the part numbers of any pins (if you need them) or any datasheets.
Unfortunately it's a bit of a minefield, but very typical of the electronics industry.
One more important thing, the contacts are most likely "crimp" contacts. Normally the manufacture sell a specific tool for their pin and these tools are expensive. You can't use just any tool (especially the familiar 1/2" spade types) and its hard to solder them as it makes inserting them into the connector housing very difficult afterwards.
Obviously without seeing the crimp pins up-close it's hard to know what size and form of tool you will need, but to give you an idea I found this one on eBay, which will give you an idea of what to look for (it's from Japan)
A technique I've used in the past, is to buy a cheap tool with multiple sizes, then start with the nearest, larger, size and then work down the sizes and keep crimping until you get the one that fits best. Too big and the wire comes out, too small an the tool chops-off the crimp flanges.
The most important things are, there are no missing wire strands, the wire insulation is also crimped by the larger flanges and pull on the the wire and make sure it cannot pull-out.
This may all sound complicated but the job needs doing very carefully, it's worth buying extra pins and practising with some similar sized spare wire until you get it right. Don't practice putting the pins in, because once in they are never coming out.
Hopefully everything works-out OK
BTW you can always open-up the old connector as it can never be re-used and is scrap anyway.
#22
10-29-2021, 03:23 PM
Well I'm still giving the heads-up alert on the pins, it would be a shame if these "trip you up" so to speak.
Your pictures suggest two sizes of crimp receptacle, but beware some APTIV crimps are hard to come by, have a 14 week lead-time and an MOQ of 10,000. Also there is a general lack of detailed information about APTIV connectors.
It's likely your auto-technician will struggle to find a source of crimps and a suitable tool, hopefully I'm wrong and your guy is well connected.
I assume you got your connectors from the source I suggested, if so I notice they are now out-of-stock.
Your pictures suggest two sizes of crimp receptacle, but beware some APTIV crimps are hard to come by, have a 14 week lead-time and an MOQ of 10,000. Also there is a general lack of detailed information about APTIV connectors.
It's likely your auto-technician will struggle to find a source of crimps and a suitable tool, hopefully I'm wrong and your guy is well connected.
I assume you got your connectors from the source I suggested, if so I notice they are now out-of-stock.
#23
11-01-2021, 12:15 PM
Yeah I got the connectors from Nexus as you suggested.
I can see what you mean about the pins etc. I wonder if I get the last foot or so of the wiring harness from a wrecked H2 would that help?
I am still waiting for the abs module to arrive so the auto electrician hasn't see it yet to get his opinion.
Thanks again for all.
Kevin
I can see what you mean about the pins etc. I wonder if I get the last foot or so of the wiring harness from a wrecked H2 would that help?
I am still waiting for the abs module to arrive so the auto electrician hasn't see it yet to get his opinion.
Thanks again for all.
Kevin
Well I'm still giving the heads-up alert on the pins, it would be a shame if these "trip you up" so to speak.
Your pictures suggest two sizes of crimp receptacle, but beware some APTIV crimps are hard to come by, have a 14 week lead-time and an MOQ of 10,000. Also there is a general lack of detailed information about APTIV connectors.
It's likely your auto-technician will struggle to find a source of crimps and a suitable tool, hopefully I'm wrong and your guy is well connected.
I assume you got your connectors from the source I suggested, if so I notice they are now out-of-stock.
Your pictures suggest two sizes of crimp receptacle, but beware some APTIV crimps are hard to come by, have a 14 week lead-time and an MOQ of 10,000. Also there is a general lack of detailed information about APTIV connectors.
It's likely your auto-technician will struggle to find a source of crimps and a suitable tool, hopefully I'm wrong and your guy is well connected.
I assume you got your connectors from the source I suggested, if so I notice they are now out-of-stock.
#24
11-01-2021, 12:43 PM
Splicing in a last-foot of wiring harness with a good connector from a wrecked H2 is the easiest and fastest way to do this.
And the dirtiest way, as now it is not OEM look anymore, but everyone looking at it knows something was monkey'd with. That is OK if you are not going after a restored, factory-look.
But the largest benefit is that you do NOT have loose, wiggling, new connectors, which often happens in a multi-pin harness like this when someone tries to replace the pins.
ie. it will not be factory-tight. Unless your wiring guy is very good at his job, and has the correct connectors and crimping tools (he should be able to obtain all this more easily than you, or find a better car wiring expert).
If you go the splice route, make sure that you solder all wire splices, and use special heat shrink that has hot-melt glue inside the barrel. That seals the soldered connection from moisture.
If you do not do this, guaranteed you will have problems down the road. (Unless you live somewhere dry like Arizona.) You can buy it on AliExpress dirt cheap in every color and size, if you do not mind waiting 2 months to get it. Or you can pay 8x as much for it and pick it up locally. Good for everyone to have a bunch on hand for unexpected jobs.
Now, you already asked your wiring guy how to best do all this. What did he say? How did he plan to do this originally? The answer will be telling. ....
And the dirtiest way, as now it is not OEM look anymore, but everyone looking at it knows something was monkey'd with. That is OK if you are not going after a restored, factory-look.
But the largest benefit is that you do NOT have loose, wiggling, new connectors, which often happens in a multi-pin harness like this when someone tries to replace the pins.
ie. it will not be factory-tight. Unless your wiring guy is very good at his job, and has the correct connectors and crimping tools (he should be able to obtain all this more easily than you, or find a better car wiring expert).
If you go the splice route, make sure that you solder all wire splices, and use special heat shrink that has hot-melt glue inside the barrel. That seals the soldered connection from moisture.
If you do not do this, guaranteed you will have problems down the road. (Unless you live somewhere dry like Arizona.) You can buy it on AliExpress dirt cheap in every color and size, if you do not mind waiting 2 months to get it. Or you can pay 8x as much for it and pick it up locally. Good for everyone to have a bunch on hand for unexpected jobs.
Now, you already asked your wiring guy how to best do all this. What did he say? How did he plan to do this originally? The answer will be telling. ....
Last edited by finall; 11-01-2021 at 12:45 PM.
#25
11-01-2021, 12:49 PM
That would be a good fall-back plan-B, it means that you'd increases the chance of getting your H2 up and running (if you can arrange the connector+wiring)
Use soldered joints, either as hummerz suggests in this thread or using adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing as finall suggests in the same thread. The key point are good soldering and keeping moisture-out.
Use soldered joints, either as hummerz suggests in this thread or using adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing as finall suggests in the same thread. The key point are good soldering and keeping moisture-out.
#26
11-01-2021, 02:30 PM
The auto electrician hasn't seen the car yet - just photos. He has suggested trying to source the wiring harness in case we have issues with the pins. He won't really know what the best way to tackle the job will be until he sees it I suppose. He was asking if the wiring is a "sealed unit" which if it is will be more difficult. Maybe you know the answer to this?
Splicing in a last-foot of wiring harness with a good connector from a wrecked H2 is the easiest and fastest way to do this.
And the dirtiest way, as now it is not OEM look anymore, but everyone looking at it knows something was monkey'd with. That is OK if you are not going after a restored, factory-look.
But the largest benefit is that you do NOT have loose, wiggling, new connectors, which often happens in a multi-pin harness like this when someone tries to replace the pins.
ie. it will not be factory-tight. Unless your wiring guy is very good at his job, and has the correct connectors and crimping tools (he should be able to obtain all this more easily than you, or find a better car wiring expert).
If you go the splice route, make sure that you solder all wire splices, and use special heat shrink that has hot-melt glue inside the barrel. That seals the soldered connection from moisture.
If you do not do this, guaranteed you will have problems down the road. (Unless you live somewhere dry like Arizona.) You can buy it on AliExpress dirt cheap in every color and size, if you do not mind waiting 2 months to get it. Or you can pay 8x as much for it and pick it up locally. Good for everyone to have a bunch on hand for unexpected jobs.
Now, you already asked your wiring guy how to best do all this. What did he say? How did he plan to do this originally? The answer will be telling. ....
And the dirtiest way, as now it is not OEM look anymore, but everyone looking at it knows something was monkey'd with. That is OK if you are not going after a restored, factory-look.
But the largest benefit is that you do NOT have loose, wiggling, new connectors, which often happens in a multi-pin harness like this when someone tries to replace the pins.
ie. it will not be factory-tight. Unless your wiring guy is very good at his job, and has the correct connectors and crimping tools (he should be able to obtain all this more easily than you, or find a better car wiring expert).
If you go the splice route, make sure that you solder all wire splices, and use special heat shrink that has hot-melt glue inside the barrel. That seals the soldered connection from moisture.
If you do not do this, guaranteed you will have problems down the road. (Unless you live somewhere dry like Arizona.) You can buy it on AliExpress dirt cheap in every color and size, if you do not mind waiting 2 months to get it. Or you can pay 8x as much for it and pick it up locally. Good for everyone to have a bunch on hand for unexpected jobs.
Now, you already asked your wiring guy how to best do all this. What did he say? How did he plan to do this originally? The answer will be telling. ....
#27
11-01-2021, 02:47 PM
The MALE connector fitting is NOT a sealed unit. The ABS module itself with the FEMALE connector is typically a "sealed unit" (not sure about your specific one)
"Sealed unit" refers to a module, black box, or other device that is sealed with crimps, glue, rivets, melted plastic, etc. (i.e. it is not designed to be opened).
Also commonly referred to as "non-serviceable". Usually requires surgery to open.
Hope that helps.
"Sealed unit" refers to a module, black box, or other device that is sealed with crimps, glue, rivets, melted plastic, etc. (i.e. it is not designed to be opened).
Also commonly referred to as "non-serviceable". Usually requires surgery to open.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by finall; 11-01-2021 at 02:52 PM.
#28
11-01-2021, 02:53 PM
Yeah he said to check to see if the wiring entering the connector was protected by plastic seals. I can't see anything like that so I think they are not sealed. Just the abs module is sealed as you said.