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2008 H2 Idler Arm, Pitman Arm, Inner Tie Rods, CV Shaft repairs

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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 03:20 PM
  #11  
Gavin Costigan's Avatar
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 627
From: North GA
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Originally Posted by H2-SUT
Great Neal, A arms are no fun, getting the torsion bars unloaded, making the A arm change, reloading, setting Z vehicle height, well you know and then front end alignment.

Onto the cooler lines, these are a major pain, I ended up using a moto tool to slice off the crimp cutting about 1/2 inch off the hose and then putting it back on with I then used a combination of a oteker clamps and Ideal clamp around the hose and barb. This worked great, I still have a new GM hose in my parts storage in case it begins to fail. I can tell you replacing it is a major pain. I think Gavin did this some time back and did it with the radiator out which I think helped, perhaps he will see this an chime in.

I think most people today just remove the line and block it off. I guess unless your towing you probably don't need it anyway and its just another possible failure point inside the radiator that can trash your engine.

When looking at you pictures I thought you had a quick lift, these were neat, it had 2 fixed towers at one end and a lifting jack on the other, you just set them in place, drove up the ramps then used a jack to lift the back. Best of all they were portable and you could move them anywhere you had the space, no power required just brute strength to move them where you wanted and set them up. Real old school, I had these in my garage in Florida, simple and worked great! lol
I did mine with the radiator in. Wasn't too bad of a job; just cut the old ones out and fed the new ones through. I have a thread on it. I think its already been a couple years since I did them and haven't seen a drop of oil out of them since. I like keeping the "cooler" because it helps the oil warm up quicker. My engine has really bad piston slap when cold, so I like to get as much heat as I can in the motor as quick as possible. Honestly though, if you've got a quiet, tight tolerance engine and are not towing/offroading heavy, just bypass it. Most LS swaps I've seen its bypassed and its fine.

Side note about the radiator though, the cold case one I bought to replace my champion one blew up within a year too. At least they're willing to warranty it and actually know how to package a radiator, so it makes it to my house in one piece. Funny how the plastic oem ones are better than this garbage.
 
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