The H2 is in the shop getting new 5.13 gearing installed. On their test drive yesterday they heard an "issue" in the front end and pulled over, they reported the pinion had play in it so it was trailered back to the shop. By the time they returned to the shop the pinion bearing was seized up. After inspection the claim is that it was a "bad batch" of parts from the manufacturer and new parts were ordered. It should be done by EOD today.

I wonder if there is anything I need to be concerned with in regards to the Tcase or transmission. If the front was seized should I be worried about how the vehicle was loaded onto and off the trailer? I'm not entirely familiar with the all-time 4-wheel drive configuration of these vehicles yet, nor do I have experience with a "claim shell" differential.

I can't help but think:

•If the front axle was seized, was it drug off the trailer or was it somehow still drivable?
•If it was drug, what kind of impact does that have on the drivetrain?
•How was a vehicle with a seized axle maneuvered into location to be placed on the lift? (Assuming it was not drivable)

On any one of my other trucks this is an easy answer, but they are not full time 4x4's. I'm concerned this little blunder on their part may have caused other complications...

It should be noted that this is a 4x4 specific shop specializing strictly in off-road vehicles, gears and axles are their specialty. They said this is the 1st time this has happened in their 20+ years of doing gears and have a warranty on all their work. They came highly recommended from a few guys I know in the area that are hardcore "off-roaders" and have built many $100k+ crawlers in the area.

Any advise would be extremely appreciated!

CaboDave

 

a seized front axle can be dealt with rather easily, remove the CV shafts and the front drive shaft and the axle internals can stay stationary while the rest of the driveline function as it should,

Neal

 

Perfect, that's exactly what I was hoping to hear.

Thanks Neal

CaboDave

 

So the pinion bearing had a lot of play in it on the test drive when they pulled over. But when trailered back to the shop it was seized? That could only mean that the pinion bearing was glowing red hot, almost molten metal..... And when it cooled it effectively welded itself to the outer race. First order of business is to ask them what brand of bearings they are using. Stick with either Timken or Koyo. If they're using anything else, the reputation is in the toilet.

Neither of those brands would have a bad batch as described. And actually, I would find it hard to believe even one of the cheaper brands would fail that quick...... Unless they forgot to put gear oil in the front differential. That is the most likely cause. If it got that hot inside, I would insist on all new internals. Everything. All the way to the stub shafts that connect to your CV axles. It all likelihood they basically bought your whole front differential from mediocre work. If it was in fact a bad bearing..... Which they should have noticed while setting up the differential..... It's still on them. They can take it up with the bearing manufacturer, but that's not your problem to deal with.

I hate to be so blunt, but look at it this way. If they rebuilt your engine and forgot to put oil in it, ran it not only till it overheated but till one of the bearings weld itself to the crankshaft. Would you settle for just the bearings being replaced on the crankshaft, and have the crankshaft machined? The crankshaft that is now lost a lot of its strength from being overheated? How about those aluminum cylinder heads, and cam bearings? Torque to yield fasteners in the engine no longer have the tensile strength. And it's the same inside your differential. I wouldn't even want to use the same differential case without having it checked for cracks. Good luck, and hopefully they take the responsibility without a fight.

 

I think there is always concern over the reputation of a shop and how they treat their customers and their honesty when it comes to your vehicle.

It sound like you've done your homework on the shop and their reputation so now it comes down to trust for you.

Things like bad parts, wrong parts and the like happen and were more pronounced during and after the COVID years. I recently installed 4:56 gears in mine and ran into an issue when I started putting the rear back together, the shop I purchased the gears and master rebuild kits from sent me a master rebuild kit for a full floating 14 bolt rear instead of one for the semi-floating rear in the H2.

If the shop has the reputation you've said they do then I wouldn't have an issue trusting them with their diagnosis of what happened and that they repaired it correctly.

Unfortunately it will be in the back of your mind until you drive it for a little while and get some confidence in the repairs or at least it would for me.

Neal,

 

I spoke with the shop yesterday afternoon and was informed the replacement gears have not been shipped out yet. Not exactly what I was wanting to hear.

Is anyone familiar with the break-in procedure for our full time four wheel drive front ends? I know the procedure for a standard 4x4 where the front axle lives 99% of its life disengaged. 15-20min of light driving to reach operating temps, let cool, repeat 3 times, drain oil and inspect. However I'm unfamiliar how the front of our trucks should be treated since they're full time engaged and pointing in the opposite direction. The pinion bearing and race seem to be in a hard place for the oil to reach and soak, ESPECIALLY when brand new and "dry". I was told it needs to be driven hard right out of the gate to get the oil where it needs to be for the front pinion. A statement that 100% contradicts everything I know about gear break-in procedures.

CaboDave

 

Check with them for they put it together to see if they coat the pinion bearing with assembly lube to avoid a dry start.

Then I would say just drive it normal, and change the gear oil at say..... 500 miles. Then I would change it again at 2,000 miles. But that's me, I like my stuff to last. Lol, many many people drive off with their brand new vehicle and don't even think about the differential fluid till 140,000 miles when the bearings go out.

 

And no, I absolutely would not drive it hard right out the gate. I'd even wait a couple hundred miles before hammering on the throttle.

 

for mine the gear manufacture had the break in process in a document with the gears which didn't change from the normal break in for most trucks that I've seen

Neal

 

I absolutely agree with this 100%