07 Hummer H2 starter issue
when I turn the key it feels like the starter is barely trying to turn as if the battery was almost dead it's not batterys at 12.5VDC, I'm H2 has 240K miles. battery terminals appear clean from outside view.



w/ pass. wheeI still on (H2 is in backyard) was able to clip multimeter to the starters constant 12VDC terminal an am getting 12VDC, wasn't able to reach or even see the 12VDC trigger terminal.
before I order a remaned starter,
if I remove the wheel well will I be able to reach the starters trigger to see if it gets 12VDC when turning the ignition key?
can I swap park lamps relay w starter relay an expect starter to turn engine over?



can the starter be removed from the wheel well?
or do I have to go in from the bottom to swap the starter?

I'm thinking the bar rear skid plate must be removed to remove an replace starter?

I watched a 2500 truck video an he removed an replaced the starter from the pass. side wheel well. so is this R&R possiable w/ the H2s?I'd like to do the least amount of crawling under the H2 from the pass side the stepbar is in the way.I do have 6ton jack stands but nothing right now to place them on.

no clicks at starter, no security lock light on dash all spade fuses have continuity
I cleaned the 2 grounds on driverside front bumper.



the starter has been working fine however I rarely drive this H2
I have read these starters sometime stick maybe
should I try to bypass the silinoids 12VDC trigger w/ a screwdriver in hope of unsticking it's internals? like this



please advice an thanks

 

Because the battery is showing voltage on the meter does not necessarily reflect under load of starter. If you have check with a battery tester or check voltage under start load. I will tell you this, on my H2 I leave on a trickle charger because I no longer drive it daily... if it sits for days/week it WILL affect the start as yours is doing. I would rule the battery out 100% before going further.

My 2 cents

 

I actuely remove the battery from the H2 an keep it on a 10watt solar trickle charger, as I do w/ other rarely used batterys example yacht engine, lawn mower, spare van, house battery for RV van ect. the battery is fine, I even tryed the spare vans battery same just barely trying to turn over. but will have it checked.

I'm in the process of removing the pass front wheel and its wheel well an check if voltage is getting to trigger. which I assume is bc the starter is trying to turn.
I'm hoping the terminals at the starter are dirty.
I'm considering jumping /bypassing the siliniod w/ screwdriver like maybe the starter hit a weak spot. will report back
thanks Chrmer3

 

did you clean the battery main ground that is bolted to the engine next to the drivers side motor mount beneath the engine temp sensor?

 

no I haven't cleaned it yet. I assume the front skid plate must be removed (which I've yet to remove) to access this ground?
can I just add another ground from the frame to neg of battery?
thanks bronxteck

 

you can get to it from above but the ECU cover and the power terminal are kind of in the way abit. you can see it if you look really good. you might want to also check how the power junction is looking like while in that area. but i quick test to see if it is ground related is to use a jumper cable from you battery negative to a good metal point on the engine block and see if it improves your issue.

 

battery pos spilt to alt an starter before cleaning an after clean the small alternater was about the same cleaned both





negative jumper cable to firewall ground


initially I cleaned the alternater bracket an clipped the temp ground there an neg battery.
I'll remove the nut off stud an clean firewall. still exact same barely trying to start for a split second.

I do now see where the batterys neg ground goes to middle of engine not very accessable to clean.please suggest where I can add another to the block. thanks bronxteck

 

there is a bolt hole higher up on the engine from where the battery negative is bolted that is free around where the power steering pump pressure line is so about 6" up from the factory ground. uses the same bolt and thread

 

OK excellent on adding another ground thanks bronxteck when I get her up an running I intend on doing the big 3 please suggest spots for connecting. the firewall looks good to add a ground from battery to body. add positive out of alternater to positive of battery. and alternater case to frame.

update: I kindof knew it was time for a new siliniod when I attempted to unscrew the triggers terminals nut the stud post snapped same w/ the 12VDC constant terminal. gonna be a pita to remove the snapped post inside the power cables lug.
broken off terminals


starter testing procedure I used plus testing for the constant 12VDC.will document for my notebook.


additionaley I didn't see a need to remove the oil capcity sensor at block,either skid protector as a ytuber mentioned removing this stuff. I do know it's always easier to remove than replace hopefully it's doable to replace same as removing.

I'll move starter forward out it's hole then downward an lay on frame while reconnecting the 2 terminals then diagnally up an back in it's hole.

I am a true backyard shade treeer


I have the 6ton jackstand just behind the recovery hook. place on 1/4" thick aluminum plate 2x4s under 3ton jack wheels.

I assume since both terminals are snapped off the silinoid this starter has no core value so I'm forced to replace w/ new.
maybe this or could it be overpriced



maybe I could get by w/ this el cheapo $66. it has much better reviews. I bet there selling this a autozone.




thanks for any tips.

 

They will accept the old starter as a core, I would head to the closest local parts store and buy a reman starter. Or if you have any local starter/alternator shop in your area is even a better choice, but they are a rare thing thanks to Chinese imports.