Hummer H2 For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.

07 H2 lost all power to drivers seat

  #21  
Old 11-26-2018, 05:46 PM
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 53
Default

I just had this issue in my 04 it was the connection block drivers seat rear connection mine looked burnt.
 
  #22  
Old 12-29-2018, 01:36 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 1
Default H2 heated seat power seat compass not working - Fix video

Found this H2 heated seat power seat and compass fix video
It worked with me.
 
  #23  
Old 02-09-2019, 10:49 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 3
Default Seat power solution

I too have had issues with my driver's seat on my '07 H2. It started out intermittent, then stopped working all together. No seat movement in any axis, no heat on either driver's or passenger's side, yet the door memory buttons still continued to operate the mirrors. All of these functions are controlled by the memory control module which is located underneath the driver's seat. Power for your seat movement functions, and seat heater functions, are provided by a main circuit and branch circuit. The main circuit provides power thru a 50 amp canister type fuse located in your engine compartment fuse box. This fuse is red, and is marked MBEC (Mid Bussed Electrical Center). Consult your owner's manual for a diagram of your engine compartment fuse box to assist in locating this fuse. It should be obvious if this fuse is toast. If not, remove it and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity thru the fuse. If this fuse is blown, you will have no power to any function of your driver's seat, and your passenger door functions will also be dead. Seat heat power is delivered via a branch circuit downstream of the MBEC fuse, and this circuit contains a circuit breaker with thermal reset. If the seat heat circuit draws too much amperage, this breaker will open and allow the circuit wiring to cool to a point at which the breaker will automatically re-energize and restore operation of the heat circuit. This circuit breaker is located adjacent to the driver's left foot, behind a removeable protective plastic cover. This is referred to in your owner's manual as the center instrument panel fuse block. There are metal-cased breakers at the lower left of this fuse block,, marked 25 and 30 (amp). The 25 amp breaker protects the seat heat circuit.
If you have lost heat and seat movement control, yet your door memory buttons will still move your mirrors to their preset position, you don't have any problem with either of these power circuits described above, and you don't have a dead memory module (located underneath your driver's seat.) Mirror movement proves your memory module is ok.
The first item you want to check if you have lost seat control is the connector that feeds all circuits to your driver seat. This connector is located on the floor, under your driver seat, at the left rear corner of the seat. There is a black protective cover over the connector which can be removed for access. This connector is anchored to a bracket and you will need a body plug removal tool or screwdriver to lift it from the bracket. Once you have access, and can see the connector, you should notice this one has two locking mechanisms. One is purple, and was added as additional protection against accidental release. Once this lock is pressed and removed, then you will release the second, traditional style lock. At this point, try and pull the connector apart..... If the connector does not come apart with normal force, you have found your problem. The reason it will not separate is because it is melted together internally due to the heat generated by the ground wire that passes thru this plug. This ground wire passes all current thru the connector, and is subject to failure due to the great amount of heat generated in this wire. The ground is the 14 gauge black wire, located at the corner of the connector. I found that mine had actually generated enough heat that it opened the ground circuit, causing complete failure of the seat operation.
An easy fix is to just snip the black ground wire at both sides of the connector, and splice in a length of wire that bypasses the connector. Use wire that is equal to or greater than original. I recommend 10 to 12 gauge for this jumper.

After implementing this fix, my seat has been operating flawlessly.
 
  #24  
Old 02-09-2019, 10:54 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 3
Default Seat power solution

Correction....

The seat heat circuit breaker is the 30 amp, not 25 as originally posted.....
 
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