Ooopps sorry!!!!

Mistaken!!!

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I had them do the front exhaust manifold which has the cat attached. I still have the rattle in the second one, but another question is, is this a cat or a resonator? It's the pipe under the passenger seat whatever that "can" is under there in that mid section, that's what's doing the rattling. I'm assuming it is another cat and that's what the dealer said, but when researching online all the pipes I see with that "can" on it say catalytic convertor (direct fit) and all I find say not legal/for sale in California, so is it a second cat or is it a resonator? I'm a bit confused now. (still leaning toward its a cat). Anyway other than finagling it in there seems pretty easy to replace, however ill probably have a shop do it as I live in an apartment and no real room to work on it sad to say. As for the thermostat I'm not too worried about it as I live in California and the coldest it ever gets is like in the 20's or so (bay area). but will replace when possible. The codes they say they found were P0420, P0106 and P0128 which they say is "coolant temp below regulating" the other codes I believe are related to the exhaust problem. Also they said that there were 11 extracted broken exhaust bolts (not sure how it has that many unless the "11" is some kind of code for their computer system and they just meant that there were broken bolts)and then they say there was two broken Manifold bolts that needed to be replaced which they wanted to charge me for with $104 just for the labor. (that engine is from the factory no one has touched it since the car was built, so why should I be changed for that?) so anyway I'm not sure what to tell shops when asking about that other part to be replaced is it a second cat or is it a resonator? as usual any replies are welcome and thanks in advanced. Just want to get my baby back to good running order.


p.s. Oh also when I got my car back my heater was on full blast, they didn't mention anything in their $150 inspection (that was supposedly was not charged for) about my right DRL/turn signal being out or that the cross member bushings need to be replaced due to the clunk when shifting gear selector and then service guy/mechanic didn't even come talk to me when I picked it up. It was just the cashier and the person who gives you your car back no one else was around. Then when I got home I had to tighten up all the bolts to the skid plate as they were snug but not tightened still had to turn them like 2 full turns or so and then I had to go buy a gallon of coolant because my overflow where is says fill "to cold" was bone dry. Never will I go to that shop/dealer again. Never Ever!

 

Find a good local mechanic and stick with them, and not a dealer!! I try and do things myself that I can manage in my garage. Anything requiring a lift or too complex for me to do I have a local guy I'm loyal to that takes care of me. He fixes what needs fixing, tells me about things to keep an eye on, and also doesn't bother me about stupid things like hood pistons and open thermostats.

 

Wait, so you take your vehicle to a place that you term a 'stealership' expecting they are going rip you off and they give you a ridiculous quote which you were obviously expecting them to do, then tell them how much is in your pocketbook which of course they are going to take 99.9% of now that they know you have a certain number in mind, then only have them do half the work expecting it to be fixed and then complain.........

If I take my truck into a dealer and tell them I have 5k to work with I guarantee they are going to find 6k worth of work that it just 'has' to have.

 

No I did not find out they were going to be dishonest until the car was already there and they already had me stuck for a $150 diagnostic fee. I had good service with them about 10 years ago but guess things changed. Forgive me for hoping people would be honest no matter how much they knew I had to spend. Silly me. Oh and by the way I took it to a non dealer for the second cat and he welded in another one in for only $290 which was more than $300 less than dealer was going to charge. So now all is fixed except for thermostat which seems to be intermittent as code came on about a week after reset and then went off just yesterday. Called a different dealer just for fun and they tried to tell me they wanted $600+ just to change the thermostat! The guy even tried to tell me he had to remove the water pump to do it. When I called him on that and said no ya don't he promptly hung up on me. Anyway I got a guy now who is good so I'm going to stick with him. I want to thank you all for your replies. I know some things but not a lot and you guys always help out! I always learn a lot from these forums no matter how old the thread might be.