Power Locks and Driver Side Window not working
#131
yeah,relax, I posted a couple times on this thread because someone kept it alive and others and you pitched in. im always looking for final answers or better ones. this doesn't seem to be finished.
not a big deal, keeping the forum alive with input huh.
when someone says move the sw far away enuf.... it makes no sense. no use misleading someone. if you unplug it that's far enuf.
it is a mystery but I don't think it relearns anything. it may get reset.
not a big deal, keeping the forum alive with input huh.
when someone says move the sw far away enuf.... it makes no sense. no use misleading someone. if you unplug it that's far enuf.
it is a mystery but I don't think it relearns anything. it may get reset.
I know for a fact that there is a relearn procedure, and it worked for me!
No need to, buy a new master switch, disconnect battery terminals and touch them together, remove fuses, remove relays, stand on your head, do the hokey pokey, etc... NONE OF THAT WORKS.
I posted a procedure that worked for me, and many others too. This is what this forum is all about: helping others, not being an ***!
BTW, most of your posts are full of bullshlt, filled with misleading information.
#132
wow, you can get nasty over someones differing opinion. I refuse to do that.
I just think there is something missing in our understanding of this issue and you may not have te last word although you seem to want to. so I will stay out of this area and see how it developes.
in see a lot of various errors here and either ignore or refrain from criticizing others on a personal basis.
we may disagree on the terms reset and relearn but I see nothing in the door module that indicates it has learning ability. it is not called a controller and has no data lines going to it.
it does look like pulling the fuse would accomplish the same as pulling the sw and much ezr.
I just think there is something missing in our understanding of this issue and you may not have te last word although you seem to want to. so I will stay out of this area and see how it developes.
in see a lot of various errors here and either ignore or refrain from criticizing others on a personal basis.
we may disagree on the terms reset and relearn but I see nothing in the door module that indicates it has learning ability. it is not called a controller and has no data lines going to it.
it does look like pulling the fuse would accomplish the same as pulling the sw and much ezr.
#133
wow, you can get nasty over someones differing opinion. I refuse to do that.
I just think there is something missing in our understanding of this issue and you may not have te last word although you seem to want to. so I will stay out of this area and see how it developes.
in see a lot of various errors here and either ignore or refrain from criticizing others on a personal basis.
we may disagree on the terms reset and relearn but I see nothing in the door module that indicates it has learning ability. it is not called a controller and has no data lines going to it.
it does look like pulling the fuse would accomplish the same as pulling the sw and much ezr.
I just think there is something missing in our understanding of this issue and you may not have te last word although you seem to want to. so I will stay out of this area and see how it developes.
in see a lot of various errors here and either ignore or refrain from criticizing others on a personal basis.
we may disagree on the terms reset and relearn but I see nothing in the door module that indicates it has learning ability. it is not called a controller and has no data lines going to it.
it does look like pulling the fuse would accomplish the same as pulling the sw and much ezr.
As for me, I have spent 30+years in my life, repairing vehicles! I repair vehicles and I help others, by keeping them in those vehicles for a long time. I have motor oil running through my veins. Get yourself a life, and stay off the drugs!
#134
Hey now guys, not the place for fighting. Ppl need help here......some more than others!!! :-) but I have had this issue more than enough times. It almost seems to happen when the battery has little power. I am unsure why it does it but, when the locks and drivers window doesn't work I just pop out the switch and bring it in the house for a half hour or so and pop it back in again. Just like magic it works again. But on the other hand I also removed it once when I was on the ferry here where I was crossing and put on the dash with the heat going on it for a half hour and voila. So I guess the whole take a walk so far away is out, and I have put them back with it running as well as not any key in it and still worked. And the weirdest thing was a 3 hour drive when I left it didn't work and before I got back it worked and I didn't remove it at all.... none of the other tricks worked for me either.
So I am guessing the power level has most if not all responsibility with this issue. In any case it sucks. I have evened to back my rear door almost up against a post in a parking lot while christmas shopping just to be able to sorta have it locked up.....
So I am guessing the power level has most if not all responsibility with this issue. In any case it sucks. I have evened to back my rear door almost up against a post in a parking lot while christmas shopping just to be able to sorta have it locked up.....
Last edited by BERULAKIDE; 02-13-2014 at 07:03 PM.
#135
H3 Drivers Side Power Door Locks and Power Window Broken
I recently replaced my 2007 Hummer H3 battery, after replacing battery the driver's side power window and door locks stopped working. The other three power windows worked normally. I fixed the problem in the following manner;
1) remove key from ignition, turn off all lights, accessories and close all doors.
2) remove negative battery cable from battery
3) short negative battery cable to the positive battery cable, I used one side of a set of jumper cables to make the short. Make sure the negative battery cable can not touch or contact negative battery terminal ( otherwise you will be arc welding)
4) leave the the short in place for at least two hours.
5) after two hours, remove jumper cable (short) and reconnect negative battery cable to battery.
I can't believe this fixed the problem , but it did. Good luck.
1) remove key from ignition, turn off all lights, accessories and close all doors.
2) remove negative battery cable from battery
3) short negative battery cable to the positive battery cable, I used one side of a set of jumper cables to make the short. Make sure the negative battery cable can not touch or contact negative battery terminal ( otherwise you will be arc welding)
4) leave the the short in place for at least two hours.
5) after two hours, remove jumper cable (short) and reconnect negative battery cable to battery.
I can't believe this fixed the problem , but it did. Good luck.
#136
Hey Guys, Gals,
Either way- it worked. Hate to see arguing on a great, helpfull board such as this.
Many intelligent people, many ideas on hiw to fix stuff. Stick together! It's a help for newbies like me.
To all, thanks again.
John
Either way- it worked. Hate to see arguing on a great, helpfull board such as this.
Many intelligent people, many ideas on hiw to fix stuff. Stick together! It's a help for newbies like me.
To all, thanks again.
John
#137
Try your original master switch or the new 1,
1-hit-> key fob unlock, open door
2-unplug both master switch connectors, remove master switch
3-close door, hit-> key fob lock
4-take master switch away from the vehicle(far enough where your key fob won't work)
5-go back to vehicle
6-hit->key fob unlock, open door
7-plug in both master switch connectors
8-start vehicle
9-now check switches & fob
GL
1-hit-> key fob unlock, open door
2-unplug both master switch connectors, remove master switch
3-close door, hit-> key fob lock
4-take master switch away from the vehicle(far enough where your key fob won't work)
5-go back to vehicle
6-hit->key fob unlock, open door
7-plug in both master switch connectors
8-start vehicle
9-now check switches & fob
GL
Thanks again, your help prompted me to register at this helpful site!!!
#138
Just want to say thanks! Had this same problem yesterday, but it popped up when I picked my '06 H3 up from an alingment/rotation. Driver window was down and would not go up. Needless to say, I was upset and a bit confrontational with the garage. Followed your steps and - bingo! - everything functions normal!! I wonder if my voltage is slightly low. One of the posts here says it should read 12.6 volts at rest, mine is 12.02??
Thanks again, your help prompted me to register at this helpful site!!!
Thanks again, your help prompted me to register at this helpful site!!!
Last edited by hummerz; 02-16-2014 at 10:17 AM.
#139
I recently replaced my 2007 Hummer H3 battery, after replacing battery the driver's side power window and door locks stopped working. The other three power windows worked normally. I fixed the problem in the following manner;
1) remove key from ignition, turn off all lights, accessories and close all doors.
2) remove negative battery cable from battery
3) short negative battery cable to the positive battery cable, I used one side of a set of jumper cables to make the short. Make sure the negative battery cable can not touch or contact negative battery terminal ( otherwise you will be arc welding)
4) leave the the short in place for at least two hours.
5) after two hours, remove jumper cable (short) and reconnect negative battery cable to battery.
I can't believe this fixed the problem , but it did. Good luck.
1) remove key from ignition, turn off all lights, accessories and close all doors.
2) remove negative battery cable from battery
3) short negative battery cable to the positive battery cable, I used one side of a set of jumper cables to make the short. Make sure the negative battery cable can not touch or contact negative battery terminal ( otherwise you will be arc welding)
4) leave the the short in place for at least two hours.
5) after two hours, remove jumper cable (short) and reconnect negative battery cable to battery.
I can't believe this fixed the problem , but it did. Good luck.
I think this guy has it. number 3+4 should do it without pulling the sw..
you can see that the bcm has just 2 wires going to the dr door module.
the lock wire is simply connected in with the dr door sw and the pass door sw. all in parallel. the bcm wire is even labeled "pass door lock sw control so this is only a logic line pulling to ground like the other two switches.
the bcm "door unlock wire" is more interesting. it goes ONLY to the dr door unlock on the door module. it would appear that only the dr door could be unlocked by the bcm. look at the wiring.
remember it takes 2 pushes on the fob to unlock all doors. that 2x pulse goes into the dr unlock wire and that's where the module logic takes over, within 3 seconds, 2 hits opens all doors. that logic is self contained in the door module and the fob signal goes to the bcm only, so pulling the sw and moving it would be like moving your key away! the key and the mofule never get a signal from the fob.
so it needs to be reset if it for whatever reason it upchucks. theres no relearning as the chip on the module board,along with a pile of transistors is programmed to do its thing and has no "smart" data lines going to it.
shorting,(or pulling it) resets it when the capacitors on the board get discharged.
the 3 relays are soldered so you cant swap them
more later
Last edited by happythree; 02-16-2014 at 01:30 PM.
#140
There you go again with that gibberish. Shorting a circuit can cause an immediate problem or problems down the road. I do NOT recommend! Disconnecting the switch works, and will NEVER cause any damage. Many others have verified that. You can go ahead and short circuit, although it appears you already have. nuff said!
Last edited by hummerz; 02-16-2014 at 01:53 PM.