So, I've read several links on the T-bar adjustment with the cognito suspension.

- for the guys that did this mod, did you just turn the t-bars until it was level with the rears or is there an actualy measurement the fronts should be set at? I'm talking about from fender to center of wheel hub.

- i see that they offer the cognitos for the fronts, but do they offer rear shocks as well? I'd hate to get the cognitos for fronts and leave the rears stock?

Thanks,
Mark

 

there's no real measurement other than a "before and after" between the tire and fender. the cognito's, i think, are shock extenders for the front. there's no need to change the rear shocks other than getting rid of the stock shock. if you're going to do that, i'd go for something better than cognito. personally, i don't think the shock extenders are necessary. i've had my t-bars cranked for over 2 years and have no extenders up front.maybe the H2 is different than the H3, but i think it's just a reason to get people to spend money for the extenders - i still don't know why they're supposedly required. . . . . .

 

but i heard, on the H3's if you crank them too high, you start getting the bouncing effect because your front shocks are extended.

I've already cranked my t-bars but only 2.5 turns. Still not level as other H3's i've seen on this board.

 

Your maximum ride height should be approx 24.25". Your ride height is calculated from the center of your hub to your inner fender lip of your wheel well.

Did you really...? read all of these:Front Leveling/Shocks & 35" Tire/Wheel FAQ; RE: How much can I lift the H3 without...;
RE: Asking advice on H3 leveling kit (Please); RE: Leveling kit VS. Torsion bar adjustment; Leveling Kits - Can Anyone Explain Their Value?;
RE: Readylift or Truxxx Lift Leveling Kit? Ready to buy
; RE: Front End Lift Followup; RE: Shocks

Just kiddin. Look at the last one for info on the cognitos. I don't know of anyone with all 4 Bilstein Cognitos, and nobody has been complaining about not having them on the rear??? Personally, I leveled mine across the front, went a wee tad further, but intentionally left the front a liffle lower than the rear fo when you load the back so you don't get a nose bleed ride.
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I actually saw this link. I must have missed it. It was late last night that i was reading it.

Anyways, thanks for posting. I'll keep that setting in mind. I might order the cognitos and give them a try. I too will probably keep the front a little lower then the rears for loading purposes.

 

i'll bring my tools later this month, we can crank them babies to full stop and see how the ride is on your way home . . . . .

 

[sm=imsmilin.gif]

LOL

 

Here's what you need for the rear... A friend of mine did it to his H3 and has had no issues. This is my next upgrade.... also, sorry if it kind of jumps around I did a cut and paste from another site..

The shackles give lift and a little bit more flex. The amount of lift equals half the difference in the shackle lengths. So a 2.5" longer shackle = approximately 1.25" of lift. The swaybar disconnects allow for more flex.

Shocks – Bilstein 5125, part #BE56248H5 - http://www.bilstein.com/offroad_5125.php

There's two shocks with the same length/travel, but with different valving. These match the valving of the Cognito ones.

Shackles – Warrior YJ rear 1.25� lift, part #WAR123 – http://www.warriorproducts.com

These are 6" hole-hole, about 2.5" longer than stock. You can see how much beefier these are than the stockers.





Bar Pin Eliminators – Rocky Road Outfitters - http://www.rocky-road.com/zjbarpin.html

The Bar Pin Eliminators allowsthe rear shocks to matchthe front Bilsteins. Since Bilstein doesn’t make the 5125 with a barpin. The BPE also moves the mounting point down about 1� to compensate for the shackle lift.






bpe.jpg (14.47 KB) Viewed 701 times [/align]

Swaybar Disconnects – JKS Quicker Disconnects, WJ 0� lift front, part #3100 - http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=QRDISC&Store_Code=JKS01&am p;Category_Code=Swaybar_Disconnects

You can adjust the length on these and at their shortest are around 1� longer than the OEM endlinks.





p_3100_3104_4100.jpg (48.55 KB) Viewed 702 times [/align]

Shocks – Bilstein 5125, part #BE56248H5 - http://www.bilstein.com/offroad_5125.php

These have 10� of travel and are valved the same as the Cognito/Bilstein front shocks.[/align]
Some pictures of the install.



The bar pin eliminator


With the quick disconnect removed.


A couple “after� measurements.

Bottom of front hanger = 13.5�
Hub to fender lip = 25�
To top of bumper = 35.5�[/align][/align]

 

Mark, I did the TB crank on my H3 also. Haven't changed any shocks or added extenders. Have had no problems, and the ride isn't any worse then it was from the factory. I too cranked them up to level then took them back down 1/4". Can't remember exactly but it is somewhere in the park of 24.75"
Mine also took alot more than 2 turns on the TB's. I got yelled at for it, but 2 cranks didn't hardly do anything. Ended up around 7 turns each. I know, here it comes. Whatever, had it checked out and all is fine.


THINK PINK WHEN YOU VOTE FOR ROTMTIME IS RUNNING OUT![sm=smiley20.gif]
https://www.hummerforums.com/m_121425/mpage_7/tm.htm

 

what would cause the vast differance in turn numbers?