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New Engine After All....lots of info

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  #21  
Old 05-02-2018, 01:53 PM
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The quick disconnect fittings were not present with the the new transmission. Could have used old ones on prior transmission....chose to buy frwah ones from O’Reilley’s.
These are the trans cooler lines. The “beginning of a HUGE PIA” trying to get them to fit properly again.
 
  #22  
Old 05-02-2018, 01:55 PM
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  #23  
Old 05-02-2018, 02:05 PM
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The above 3 pics of the trans bell housing pertain to spacing between the torque converter base feet/pegs and the flywheel.

There is a small range for the amount of space you can have between the flywheel and the feet on the torque converter. The closer the torque converter is to the flywheel, the far it is from the base of the transmission shaft. Apparently, if the spacing is not within tolerance, the torque converter will move back and forth too much of a distance and screw up your transmission pump. Or, at least that’s what the install instructions say and of course “the internet”...lol

My spacing was waaaaaay off!!! I rotated the torque converter probably 20 times trying to confirm it was seated properly to ensure I wasn’t screwing up the spacing myself.

After confirming the torque converter was properly seated I began to measure the space in between each of the foot pegs and tc.

A few disclosures: the tc had some amount of trans fluid......whatever amount the re manufacturer put in. At this point, I had not added any additional trans fluid to the trans. Trans was not bone dry, but far from full.
Also, I was very frustrated to discover I need to do “one more thing” and that frustration was compounded by learning I didn’t have the proper tool to measure the space.

More to come......
 

Last edited by RoH2; 05-02-2018 at 02:43 PM. Reason: More info
  #24  
Old 05-03-2018, 06:55 AM
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You need to pull the trans out and measure the converter hub diameter (button looking part of the torq converter) and compare to the end of the crank. Any debris / burrs or misalignment here will cause your issues.

Tim
 
  #25  
Old 05-03-2018, 08:57 AM
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The gap between the torque converter and the flex plate is not hugely uncommon but must be spaced correctly. The torque converter drives the front pump in the trans and if not seated far enough into the pump will cause damage to the pump or may pull out and cause catastrophic damage to the trans. Typically the manufactures recommend 1/16 to 3/16" from seated.

Drill bits can be used to measure the distance between the flex plate and the converter feet.

Does the converter slide freely up to the flex plate and back into the trans?

Neal
 
  #26  
Old 05-03-2018, 09:50 PM
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I would be interested to know how much money you save by doing it yourself. I just had mine rebuilt by Patriot Engine in Austin, and even though they took longer than expected, they still did an amazing job. They ship it to City Motor in Dallas and ship it back and re-install. They replaced water pumps, engine mounts, knock sensors, and a few other things in addition to the complete long block rebuild. All 'motion' parts were brand new, but my original block all for $4871
 
  #27  
Old 05-05-2018, 10:38 AM
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Great work you put into this.
Couple things.
You said the oil pressure is constantly at 80. I don't think that's correct., usually that happens due a bad oil pressure sending unit

How was to remove the exhaust bolts from the oem engine

Keep pics and info coming. Nice work
 
  #28  
Old 05-14-2018, 07:58 AM
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Also might be the wrong flex plate. Did you reuse your old one or use what was sent to you?

Tim
 
  #29  
Old 05-25-2018, 10:49 PM
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All for the low price of......? 😁
 
  #30  
Old 06-11-2018, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by tharber
Good work.

Now put the old engine for sale over on LS1.com and get some of your $$$$ back.

Tim
I paid a $625 core charge....so, I returned the old engine to get that money back. Thanks for the suggestion though
 


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