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Winter Uh Oh! Fob Window Locks.

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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 09:11 PM
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Default Winter Uh Oh! Fob Window Locks.

My drivers window, door locks and key fob stopped working at the same time! Here is the Story. It's been cold and a little snowy in my area. A few inches of snow, 15°F. Decided to bring the '06 H3 into a warm garage to get the crude off of it. Rinsed the truck with pretty warm water from a garden hose. Cleaned the interior a little. Lubed the window rubbers with some silicon grease to prevent freezing. Checked to see if my key worked in the drivers door lock. It hasn't work with the new key I got last year and it worked! Happy about that. Tried it several times just to make sure. Let the H3 dry for about an hour. Came home and after a few hours went to get some groceries. Tried the driver window and nothing not even a click. All the other windows work. I'm thinking $#@*! The window motor is done. Went to lock the truck and no lights flash. Open the door tried the lock switch and nothing. Unlock? Nothing.
Did I fry something, did something in the door freeze, did messing around with the door lock confuse a module or was this all a coincident and something screw up? Some HELP would be appreciated.
 
Old Dec 14, 2017 | 11:32 PM
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door lock key assm is not connected to electrical system. the h3 thinks you broke in if you use the key. do you get horn beep using the key?. i do.
 
Old Dec 15, 2017 | 06:33 AM
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Check the grey connector between the door and door jam. It may have become dislodged when you were wiping that area down. There is a handle that needs to be pushed down to lock it to the door.
 
Old Dec 15, 2017 | 04:48 PM
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This has happened numerous times with both the 06 & 07 H3's.

Each time we've had frozen door sensor switches. You know the ones that there the lights out when door is closed. Door jamb switches I believe that is the name.

On rarer occasions I've had to remove the drivers side switch assembly and bring it in overnight to thaw out. I usually open it up completely and clean the contacts and connections then reinstall next morning.
 
Old Dec 16, 2017 | 09:17 AM
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Well isn't that interesting. I even have spare door switches in the glove box. This also causes problems with the drivers window? I looked into my problem yesterday. The H3 had been sitting in a warm garage, 70°F, for several hours before I got to it. Got electrical diagrams for the power windows and door locks. Very basic systems with only the master power window switch and fuse box as anything common. I was expecting to find a module in the driver door. Checked for power at the door lock fuse, good. Pulled the relay for the windows, 88, and swapped it for the HVAC relay, 87, because there was a little green on one terminal. Heater fan still works still nothing on the driver door. Removed the master switch pulled the 2 plugs. Dry and clean. Check for power at the yellow and the orange wires. Both good. I was eyeing the handle Tainter was talking about at the same time as my next step if there was no power. Connected the master switch again. Tried the window down again and nothing. Went to check for out power at the brown wire for the window and the window went down. Back to normal operations. What the heck? Now is the master switch screwing around or the door switch thaw out at that time? Would it be the driver door switch acting up or one of the others? If it happens again I'm swapping out the driver door switch first. I did a search in the forum for this problem and came up with no results. Now I'm looking down at related topics and there it is.
 
Old Dec 19, 2017 | 11:41 AM
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Not to sound like the dummies on tech support lines, but have you tried disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it? I have a bad terminal connector on mine and it got so bad that when I would try and start the truck, the amps would cause it to slip lose and lose all power to the truck. I had to hold the cable and use remote start to get it going. But a couple of times, it knocked out the power locks and drivers side window. I would have to disconnect the battery and let the system reset itself. I read somewhere on here that they are on a circuit of their own and that's why they are the only things to go out. Not 100% sure it'll work but there's no harm in trying!
 
Old Dec 19, 2017 | 07:53 PM
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I did check the battery terminals because I checked for codes and there was a low voltage code in a couple of the modules. One of them was the body control module which controls the relay #88. Did a voltage drop test at the terminals, as well as a battery load test. Battery was a little weak and will be replaced soon. Disconnected the battery to see if that would work. Cleaned the terminals at the same time. Shortly after that I started checking for power. Sometimes a battery disconnect will work, but not always and not this time.
 
Old Dec 19, 2017 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc Olds
Bad battery cable connection resulting in a voltage drop. It has happened to a bunch of people.

The driver side window is on its own circuit, as is the door locks. Check that you have good and tight positive and negative battery cable connection to the battery posts. Wiggle the cables a bit. If it still does not work, pull out and put back fuse #8 and circuit breaker/relay #68. Sometimes wiggling # 68 is all you need to do.

Pulling the fuse or breaker cuts the power and resets the circuit.

Keep in mind when you look at the fuse block key (map layout) in the manual, if you are looking at the fuse block under the hood from the front, you have to flip the manual around so the numbers are upside down to correspond to the correct fuse/breaker location on the truck.
This is from "https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=198878"
I also checked my Diagnostic website but couldn't find anything. Keep us posted! I am eager to figure out what causes this and possibly why mine kept resting itself
 
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