what offset and BS on wheels for H3 alpha
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 24
what offset and BS on wheels for H3 alpha
I am wanting to go to 315 75R16 tires, but I dont want to run OEM wheels anymore. What offset and backspacing and size should I be looking for for that OEM fitment?
I will crank the torsion bars but I dont want to really do any major mods to my 09 h3 alpha in that sense.
I am open to 17" wheels also but would still need to know what BS and offset to look for. basically wanting to run 34.5-35" tires on my H3 with some nice wheels.
any help guys
I will crank the torsion bars but I dont want to really do any major mods to my 09 h3 alpha in that sense.
I am open to 17" wheels also but would still need to know what BS and offset to look for. basically wanting to run 34.5-35" tires on my H3 with some nice wheels.
any help guys
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,090
From: Boat Town USA MI
A quote from one of the bazillion threads on this topic, from our man Bunger!
"Stock OEM 16" diameter wheel is 7.5" wide, 6x5.5"(6x139.7mm) lug pattern, 101 mm center bore, offset is 30mm, and back spacing is 5.5".
When choosing new wheels you need:
1) 6x5.5" lug pattern
2) 101 mm minimum center bore. (H3's are HUB centric, meaning that the wheels locate on the hub center, which is 100 mm, so you can't go too large on the center bore either)
3) 5.5" MAX backspace, less backspace will make tires stick out more as will wider wheels.
IGNORE offset, as it changes with wheel width. It's not an important number."
I am deleting your tire/wheel section post, nobody goes there, more interest here. Good luck.
"Stock OEM 16" diameter wheel is 7.5" wide, 6x5.5"(6x139.7mm) lug pattern, 101 mm center bore, offset is 30mm, and back spacing is 5.5".
When choosing new wheels you need:
1) 6x5.5" lug pattern
2) 101 mm minimum center bore. (H3's are HUB centric, meaning that the wheels locate on the hub center, which is 100 mm, so you can't go too large on the center bore either)
3) 5.5" MAX backspace, less backspace will make tires stick out more as will wider wheels.
IGNORE offset, as it changes with wheel width. It's not an important number."
I am deleting your tire/wheel section post, nobody goes there, more interest here. Good luck.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,090
From: Boat Town USA MI
1) you will need a rim with at least the diameter of the center bore so it will clear the hub (if too small it cannot be tightened over the hub flange); and,
2) That is why there are wheel rings to adapt over-sized aftermarket lug centric rims to hub centric hubs, the lug nuts are used just to hold the wheel on the hub.
You drastically increase metal fatigue to the lugs, and the wheel lug holes by skipping the hub flange as the weight bearing mechanism. If you want to wing it, have at it, but I won't be carting my butt around like that. Sure it "will work", but it is just a failure waiting to happen. As soon as/if a lug nut comes loose, failure is just around the corner.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 138
From: CA
So now you agree, having a center bore large enough to fit over the hub has absolutely nothing to do with being hub centric. The lug nuts center the rim NOT the hub. Read my earlier post. any aftermarket rim with a 4" center bore will work. The tapered lug nuts center the rim on the hub not the center bore.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,090
From: Boat Town USA MI
So now you agree, having a center bore large enough to fit over the hub has absolutely nothing to do with being hub centric. The lug nuts center the rim NOT the hub. Read my earlier post. any aftermarket rim with a 4" center bore will work. The tapered lug nuts center the rim on the hub not the center bore.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 795
From: SoCal
I was actually leaning towards rascole's opinion on this, till I did a bit more research. Here's a good explanation that I found that agrees with Doc, although I question how much "weight bearing" is actually accomplished with plastic rings:
"Hub-Centric:
Nearly all OEM Wheels are designed to be hub-centric. The automaker designs an OEM wheel to fit on a certain car or range of cars. The center bore of the wheel is sized to fit perfectly onto the axle of that car. This is a hub-centric connection, as the wheel is centered by it's connection to the axle hub. The lugnuts hold the wheel firmly to the mounting plate, but it is the wheel-to-axle connection that actually holds the weight of the car.
This is quite an important distinction, as the lugnuts are designed to handle lateral forces that push the wheel away from the mounting plate. The forces that the hub and center bore connection are designed to withstand – the weight of the car forcing downward and impacts forcing upward – are at right angles to the forces that the lugnuts are designed for.
Lug-Centric:
Hub diameter is therefore an extremely important consideration when fitting new wheels, whether OEM or aftermarket. If the hub diameter is smaller that the axle, the wheel will simply not fit. Most aftermarket wheels are therefore made with larger hub diameters to ensure that they will fit on a wide range of cars. This means that when the wheel is installed, there will most likely be a space between the axle and the hub instead of a firm contact. The wheel is therefore lug-centric, as the wheel is centered by the lugs rather than by the hub. There are some people who will say that driving on lug-centric wheels doesn't really matter as long as the lugnuts are the self-centering cone type, as they will adequately center the wheel. These people are wrong. Driving on lug-centric wheels means that any impact will apply shear force to the lug studs, forces at 90 degrees to those the studs are designed to handle. This can cause the lug studs to bend, leading to a vibration in the car as the wheel slips around on the mounting plate, and possibly damaging the wheel's center bore if it has enough play to contact the axle. To prevent this kind of thing, aftermarket wheels will usually need hub-centric spacers, small rings of metal or plastic made with various inside and outside diameters so as to fit inside the wheel hub and then fit over the axle, making a lug-centric fitment into a hub-centric one. Some aftermarket wheel makers advertise that all of their wheels are in fact hub-centric – what this means is that they provide the proper spacers for the customer's car, not that they custom-make their wheels for the many hub diameters out there. Most good wheel retailers, online or otherwise, will provide the correct spacers as part of the fitment package. If you do need to shop for a set, try one of the better online stores. In Real Life, most tire retailers will also either carry spacers or will know who does. Do not make the mistake of thinking that spacers are optional equipment, or that a retailer is trying to upsell you on some useless accessories. Hub-centric spacers are actually about as necessary for aftermarket wheels as lugnuts are. Keep the proper fitment for your wheels and you'll be driving happy for a good long time."
"Hub-Centric:
Nearly all OEM Wheels are designed to be hub-centric. The automaker designs an OEM wheel to fit on a certain car or range of cars. The center bore of the wheel is sized to fit perfectly onto the axle of that car. This is a hub-centric connection, as the wheel is centered by it's connection to the axle hub. The lugnuts hold the wheel firmly to the mounting plate, but it is the wheel-to-axle connection that actually holds the weight of the car.
This is quite an important distinction, as the lugnuts are designed to handle lateral forces that push the wheel away from the mounting plate. The forces that the hub and center bore connection are designed to withstand – the weight of the car forcing downward and impacts forcing upward – are at right angles to the forces that the lugnuts are designed for.
Lug-Centric:
Hub diameter is therefore an extremely important consideration when fitting new wheels, whether OEM or aftermarket. If the hub diameter is smaller that the axle, the wheel will simply not fit. Most aftermarket wheels are therefore made with larger hub diameters to ensure that they will fit on a wide range of cars. This means that when the wheel is installed, there will most likely be a space between the axle and the hub instead of a firm contact. The wheel is therefore lug-centric, as the wheel is centered by the lugs rather than by the hub. There are some people who will say that driving on lug-centric wheels doesn't really matter as long as the lugnuts are the self-centering cone type, as they will adequately center the wheel. These people are wrong. Driving on lug-centric wheels means that any impact will apply shear force to the lug studs, forces at 90 degrees to those the studs are designed to handle. This can cause the lug studs to bend, leading to a vibration in the car as the wheel slips around on the mounting plate, and possibly damaging the wheel's center bore if it has enough play to contact the axle. To prevent this kind of thing, aftermarket wheels will usually need hub-centric spacers, small rings of metal or plastic made with various inside and outside diameters so as to fit inside the wheel hub and then fit over the axle, making a lug-centric fitment into a hub-centric one. Some aftermarket wheel makers advertise that all of their wheels are in fact hub-centric – what this means is that they provide the proper spacers for the customer's car, not that they custom-make their wheels for the many hub diameters out there. Most good wheel retailers, online or otherwise, will provide the correct spacers as part of the fitment package. If you do need to shop for a set, try one of the better online stores. In Real Life, most tire retailers will also either carry spacers or will know who does. Do not make the mistake of thinking that spacers are optional equipment, or that a retailer is trying to upsell you on some useless accessories. Hub-centric spacers are actually about as necessary for aftermarket wheels as lugnuts are. Keep the proper fitment for your wheels and you'll be driving happy for a good long time."
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 795
From: SoCal
No one said it "won't" work...but it is not recommended and WILL put added stress on the lugs...with the weight of our H3s and the loads that our wheels see off-roading, it's not a good thing.
BTW, rascole, your rims are nice looking; I would contact the manufacturer and see if you can get the rings to make them hub-centric. What's the downside?
BTW, rascole, your rims are nice looking; I would contact the manufacturer and see if you can get the rings to make them hub-centric. What's the downside?
Last edited by 650Hawk; May 26, 2016 at 11:09 AM.