Ive searched all the threads and solved some of my issues but i still have a few questions. I have a clarion nx409 h/u and I am trying to install some rockford tweeters, my question is how do i get them wired up to my h/u, because i read on here where someone said not to use the speaker wire that is already there. I did not do an entire component set so I have no crossover. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Oh btw I have a 2006 H3.

 

I responded to the post you left on my profile, but you didn't get back to me.

If you read this post thoroughly it should have all the information you need.

https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/a...15/#post248473

If you didn't buy a component set, and your tweeters didn't come with crossovers, you may be out of luck. If the speaker is 4 Ohm's, and so is the tweeter, and you wire them together without a crossover it will drop your Ohm's down to 2, which can cause issues.

Are you still using the factory amp? If your stereo system is working, then I assume you have some kind of aftermarket wiring harness behind your head unit.

If you're not going to use the factory amp, you'll need to add RCA's on to the end of the speaker wire and go straight to the head unit, otherwise just stick with your wiring harness.

To wire in the tweeters correctly here is what I would do, IF you're still using the factory amp and are using a wiring harness.

Disclaimer: I have not tried this, this is theory based off of my (at this point extensive) knowledge of the stereo system in our vehicles.

Check you're Ohm's with a volt meter first, and note them. Check it at the tweeter, and at the door speaker, they both should read 4 Ohm.

Remove the old tweeters, cut out the white plastic mounting, and hot glue the new ones in place. It's kind of weird, but the tweeters and door speakers run all the way back to the factory amp separately, and the crossover's are at (in) the amp.

Once you have the new tweeters mounted, cut the plug off of the old tweeter wire, and wire them up to the new tweeters. Don't listen to anyone telling you not to use the factory speaker wire. In fact, unless you want to remove your front doors, drill holes, and seal them to run your own speaker wire, then you're stuck using the factory wire. The reason for this being that the boot, or at least what looks like a boot, going into the front doors, is not a boot, but a solid plug with a rubber sleeve and zero room to run anything else into the doors.

Granted, the only place I'm using factory wire, is in the front doors and even then not the full length of it. I ran my own wire up to the drivers side kick panel, and ran my own wire down from the tweeters, and then spliced into the factory wire in order to get the front door's wired up. The back doors are normal boots and it was easy to run wire for them. I'm pushing 125W rms to each door and I've had absolutely zero problems with the factory wire I'm using. You should have less than zero problems considering you're only using the factory amp and it's a 200W amp, 100 to the sub, and 25 to each door.

So after you get the plug cut off, and the new tweeter wired up, check your Ohm's and they SHOULD read the same. Fire everything up and see if it works, and how it sounds, but it should be fine, and you should be able to get away with using the factory wire and relying on the factory crossovers at the amp.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Regarding the bit about the crossover for the factory system being located in the amp...that doesn't match what I'm seeing in my '07 Monsoon-equipped vehicle. I will be replacing the factory speakers, but so far I've just replaced the amp, head unit and sub. I tapped into the factory speaker wires at the location of the old amp, and my front speakers sound fine. There's no way my front speakers would be working correctly if this were true. Perhaps that is only for non-Monsoon vehicles?

 

Well, from what I'm able to tell, the tweeter wire runs to the rear totally separate form the front speakers, I'm not 100% sure if it merges eventually or stays separate until the plug that goes into the amp, maybe you can shed some light on this. I know for sure the crossovers are not anywhere up front, because I traced the tweeter wire all the way back as far as I could without pulling the rear panel since I have about 300lbs of equipment to remove if I wanted to get to it.

The crossovers are also not anywhere in the dash between the A pillar and kick panel, I traced it there too, just wire....

I dunno man, our trucks are wired so damn weird, I found that my front drivers door speaker wire runs down both sides of the vehicle too. I was able to pop test both sides and had the driver side doors pop both times.

Whoever designed this must have been smoking something, there so many easier ways to do this even with a factory amp.

Did the tweeter wire merge eventually or did you have to twist them together at the rear amp? I guess the only way to tell where the crossovers are, or if you even still have them is to check your Ohm, because without a proper crossover it should be reading 2 Ohm, and would probably still work without one if you're not pushing a crapload of power to the speakers.

I could never track down the crossovers with absolute certainty but what I can tell you is they are definitely not anywhere from the rear seats forward because my tweeters sound amazing, and Ohm out just fine. In my mind it made sense to have the crossovers at the amp because it tends to go with GM's mentality of:

"Shove as many functions into one component so if something goes bad you just chuck the whole thing and replace it this way our vehicles are easy to diagnose and the retarded dealership wrench monkeys and can actually fix things instead of playing guessing games all day"

 

Damn, you are right! THat explains why I had to turn up the treble when I installed my amp! I was hearing highs, just a bit muted, so I assumed they were coming from the tweeters, but with no crossover in play now, the mids are getting a full range signal. Interesting, because my speaker wiring info contained nothing about the L and R tweeter wires. Dammit I'm going to have to pull that rear panel again :-(

 

Don't do that, just get some crossovers, bypass the factory tweeter wire with your own speaker wire, run it down from the top of the dash to the bottom, and wire it into the front doors. No need to over complicate things.

 

Well, my amp is already tied into the speaker wires in the harness at the Monsoon amp connector, so I need to break that connection and attach it to the crossover anyway. That is probably as good a location for the crossovers as any (my amp is under the driver's seat, fwiw).

 

Why would you need to do that? The way I'm wired is my amp straight to my speaker, and then the crossover mounted in the pillar is spliced into the front speaker wire before it actually gets to the front speaker. Am I missing something because you shouldn't have to go to all that work if you don't want to. Doesn't really matter where the crossover is wired in at as long as the door speaker has a direct wire to the amp without going through the crossover.

 

I'm all about saving effort ha ha....I thought it would be easiest. I would cheerfully mount the crossover somewhere else I'd need to tie into the speaker wire harness somewhere, right? How did you find the right speaker wire before it enters the door? Also...how did you fit the crossover into the pillar area? I wouldn't think it would fit.