Nope. H3s have an H3 pan (also 4x4 Colby/Canyon) with a cut out for the right side front output shaft from the T case.

 

HumbleAg,
I've heard arguments both ways. Some say it can hurt it, some say it don't. Supposedly new AT fluid can clean out old gunk and it will clog up passageways. I'm not real sure. The manual says to change the transmission fluid at 100k. I'm just over 107k, so I figured why not.

 

I am a big fan of changing the trans fluid the same way Doc mentioned (every 50,000). I will never flush.
Filter and 5 to 6 quarts added. Add drain to pan. Drive a bit of miles, drain, add 5 more, drive & drain again.
Fluid is bright red after the last drive and drain.

While you are down there do both of your Diffs and Tcase.

Tcase fluid should be changed a lot more frequently! @ I change it out every 20,000 miles (5 oil changes) and it's DARK.
I do wheel a lot, but it is still spinning all the time weather you are in 4HI or 4LOW.

 

I changed out differentials, tcase, oil, spark plugs, and now going to do transmission filter tonight. Not looking forward to dropping the drive shaft, but ill see how it goes

 

Drain plug pic anyone?? Took the pick before the Undercarriage Protection Cage went back on.... and since sold that truck. Kept the Fumoto for the Alpha so I can do the same thing next Trans Fluid change.

 

Pls whatever you do put blocks on the wheels to stop the H3 from rolling. It has no way of staying put once you drain the fluid.

 

????? How does draining the fluid "disconnect" the driveline?????

 

IDK? There is a way to do that:

 

Not sure where you got this mis-information. Draining the fluid does nothing, but jacking either end or removing the front prop shaft will.
ALWAYS USE WHEEL CHALKS when working on any vehicle, especially your H3/H3T.

 

I do both and alternate at every 30K. First was a drop and drain, at 60K did the flush etc....I'm at 140K now with no problems. Maybe too much maint. but I'm getting the Best/Worst of both schools of thought.