Side Vent Fabrication idea for battery tender/float charger
I was thinking of asking someone handy with metal to potentially fabricate me up something where they basically sink a marine waterproof external socket to a battery tender..
i.e. basically something like this -
http://www.navigatorschoice.com/imag...0638_large.gif
fitting into this -
Side Air Vents Billet Black for Hummer H2
to give me something comparable to this:
Predator Inc: Hummer H1 Battery Maintainer kit
Any thoughts ? I've struggled with extreme cold recently, and the battery could do with a top up. Am thinking of something useable and readily accessible.
i.e. basically something like this -
http://www.navigatorschoice.com/imag...0638_large.gif
fitting into this -
Side Air Vents Billet Black for Hummer H2
to give me something comparable to this:
Predator Inc: Hummer H1 Battery Maintainer kit
Any thoughts ? I've struggled with extreme cold recently, and the battery could do with a top up. Am thinking of something useable and readily accessible.
That seems like a lot of work, I would just buy a battery tender pigtail and let it stick out by the front bumper and plug it in that way. I do that on my Harley. I really like the battery tenders and use them a lot.
Wowza! Predator is KILLING it on the markup for a small custom metal mounting plate, a few screws, and a cheapo grade shoreline connector. The 5A Tender they show has an msrp of $125.95 (you can find that particular one for $79 to $89 all day online) and the same model 24v version has the exact same cost yet Predator charges $50 more for the 24v version???
I was planning on something similar for the H2 I just got but I'm going to be installing an inverter/charger so I'll also be looking to add a reasonably decent power inlet. There are tons out there, just search for 120v weatherproof inlet. They vary in quality and very much in cost. I work on ambulances a lot - the most common on those are the Kussmaul auto-eject ones but those are very expensive and overkill for this use.
Another thing I plan on doing is adding a custom set of jumper cables. Going to get a 20' 2 ga set of good quality jumper cables. Then a set of 350 Anderson connectors - mount one to the truck (maybe under the driver side by the front tire or somewhere close) and permanently attach it to the truck and 12v positive and ground. Then cut one end of the jumper cables and attach the other Anderson connector. Voila - custom jumper cable set that you don't even need to open the hood to use and you can use them to jump or get jumped.
I was planning on something similar for the H2 I just got but I'm going to be installing an inverter/charger so I'll also be looking to add a reasonably decent power inlet. There are tons out there, just search for 120v weatherproof inlet. They vary in quality and very much in cost. I work on ambulances a lot - the most common on those are the Kussmaul auto-eject ones but those are very expensive and overkill for this use.
Another thing I plan on doing is adding a custom set of jumper cables. Going to get a 20' 2 ga set of good quality jumper cables. Then a set of 350 Anderson connectors - mount one to the truck (maybe under the driver side by the front tire or somewhere close) and permanently attach it to the truck and 12v positive and ground. Then cut one end of the jumper cables and attach the other Anderson connector. Voila - custom jumper cable set that you don't even need to open the hood to use and you can use them to jump or get jumped.
Wowza! Predator is KILLING it on the markup for a small custom metal mounting plate, a few screws, and a cheapo grade shoreline connector. The 5A Tender they show has an msrp of $125.95 (you can find that particular one for $79 to $89 all day online) and the same model 24v version has the exact same cost yet Predator charges $50 more for the 24v version???
I'll look into the options you mentioned.
This is the 5A one they show in that kit....
https://www.google.com/search?q=batt...battery+tender
Some RV site has it for the $79. $89 on Amazon with free shipping too.
Here is the power inlet on Amazon for $16.41... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZB1DYXI?psc=1
and the Tender for $88.25
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende.../dp/B002DU3S9A
So there you go - just have to figure a place to mount the tender and a place to install the inlet. Then cut the plug off the tender and wire it to the inlet. The tender is already setup to be hard mounted and even has screw slots. I'm betting we could find a spot under the hood to mount it. Maybe on the firewall up high on the drivers side... Could also even skip the inlet and just leave the plug end hanging in the lower from grille area. That how most block heaters are setup... I think an inlet is nicer though.
https://www.google.com/search?q=batt...battery+tender
Some RV site has it for the $79. $89 on Amazon with free shipping too.
Here is the power inlet on Amazon for $16.41... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZB1DYXI?psc=1
and the Tender for $88.25
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende.../dp/B002DU3S9A
So there you go - just have to figure a place to mount the tender and a place to install the inlet. Then cut the plug off the tender and wire it to the inlet. The tender is already setup to be hard mounted and even has screw slots. I'm betting we could find a spot under the hood to mount it. Maybe on the firewall up high on the drivers side... Could also even skip the inlet and just leave the plug end hanging in the lower from grille area. That how most block heaters are setup... I think an inlet is nicer though.
Pff I bought a $20 one from Walmart and been using it for over a year without issue. I just let the wires hang out though nothing extremely clean like you're mentioning.
Honestly I think it would be easier to just use a hole saw and punch a hole through the fiberglass fender as opposed to trying to go through billet aluminum.
Honestly I think it would be easier to just use a hole saw and punch a hole through the fiberglass fender as opposed to trying to go through billet aluminum.
Pff I bought a $20 one from Walmart and been using it for over a year without issue. I just let the wires hang out though nothing extremely clean like you're mentioning.
Honestly I think it would be easier to just use a hole saw and punch a hole through the fiberglass fender as opposed to trying to go through billet aluminum.
Honestly I think it would be easier to just use a hole saw and punch a hole through the fiberglass fender as opposed to trying to go through billet aluminum.
I totally hear ya. Since mine has been garaged I'm constantly wanting to do things to it!
A friend of mine here has an H2 Sut (he got me into my one), and he's just bought a 2016 Jeep Wrangler. I'm amazed at how much customisable stuff is out there for them. I mean so many suppliers, parts, ideas... it makes the h2's look almost boring by comparison. I understand car sales figures and economics etc, but i'm quietly envious at the parts he's looking to buy to customise his jeep!


