mfish: "it's minor but I wouldnt mind something a little stiffer, but not to stiff."

I bet that's what all the gals say! [sm=lol.gif] I am sorry doood, just couldn't let that one by [sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif][sm=lol.gif]

Seriously, a good question, by I just couldn't.

I restored two vettes (70 and a 71) and used Bilsteins, they were some sweet shocks. Top quality. Gunner_45 please give us the ride scoop.

 

I've been running them for quite a while now and really like 'em. I put 'em on a week after the dealer did my T-Bar crank and alignment.

Night and day difference between them and the stock shocks.

They are firm but not at all unpleasant, body roll and nose dive has been decreased somewhat and lateral stability seems a little better.

However, some of the LS is due in partto the 12.50" wide tires and increased rim width (9" with a 5" backspace).

All in all, it was a great mod and improved the overall drivability of the truck. (In my humble opinion)

 

I just keep seeing this subject come up and just want to point out a few things. This is not a complete explanation just a short version, well shorter than others.It is also just my opinon. Please correct me if I have overlooked something. A shock alone will not raise the front end. A coil over might. I keep seeing these advertised as front end lift shocksbut without cranking the bars or adding keys they just compress to ride height. They will however help eliminate the problem of the stock shock trying to overextend its downward limit too soon with cranked t-bars.
The stock shock is "about" 15 1/4 measured from the bottom of the bottom upper washer to center of lower mounting hole. Some people measure from the top of the rubber above that but for reference that has to be compressed on the vehicle so can change.
It is a little short of max suspension drop which is when the upper a-arm hits the metal stop. That means it is helping support the suspension. The sway bar also is also helping to limit drop. I have lots and lots of time measuring all this. I posted elsewhere some of this but feel like I want to help any misunderstanding because I like this forum.
If you jack up the H3 and let the suspension drop until the metal bump stop for the upper arm hits, that is it, NO more drop. So a spacer on top of the stock shock will move the center of travel down rather than an extender on the bottom simply compressing the shock more and limiting its range of shock absorbing ability. The longer shocks will have to be compressed to fit thus loosing all but "about" 1 1/4 inch of its longer length. However it might also then still be in its operating range instead of overextending like the stock shock when the torsions are cranked as high as 8 turns like mine. Is that clear as mud on a H3 or am I total out of touch??
The first picture shows stock shock disconnected and the suspension hanging.
The next one shows the results by adding a loose nut at the top to lengthen the shock. That solved the overextending of the stock shock and hitting its full travel, and feels like it!
So a longer maybe better shock like the Bilstein/Cognito my improve ride quality but can only use part of the extended length. I still seeconflicting measurments as to the unloaded length and fully compressed length of that shock.
Im working on limit strap length now and it has been tough because of several measurements and suspension geometry. It now seems about 14 3/4 length isthe shortestyou can use because of the limit of how far you can jack up the suspension to get it mounted on the lower bolt. This still allows the upper a-arm to come to the metal stop because of minor stretch and varying geometry but just barely. Thismeans you are getting all the downward travel available. Hopefully when I get that worked out and the new tie rods I can publish better findings. If I use the longer shock I want the strap to prevent the upper a-arm from leveraging on the metal stop and possibly causing failure.
Sorry I could not be more brief. This is something we all need to get right.
I hope I helped some people understand at least my research on this. I post on several sites and have brain fade at times but can tell by the current posts some of this got missed. I feel like there is a lot to gain by checking around for different opinions.
Ok hit me..........


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I put these on a year ago,, http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products...ProductId=1345 There alittle softer than stock. I have my T-bars cranked allmost 3 turns. No problems. Just another idea tossed into the mix. See ya,,

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I remember when you got those. What was the part number for the ones for the front that indicates the clevis at bottom? I want to read the measurments on them. If Im right Tenneco the makers of the stock ones also make Monroe, Rancho, and Comp and others to their specifications. I too looked into those. So far Im still on stock until I do some other things which will affect the length.
If you don't hang a wheel in the air alot offroad the metal bump stop does not come into play. You should check the stop and see if it looks like it has been rubbing. Its black but gets shiny where it does.
You need some of my rear skids to protect those rear ones before you take one off!

While searching I found this also as an option but have not tried them.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_..._chart-2.shtml

 

So you say the 9000's are still softer than stock? I got my Pro Comp 3000's from 4 wheel parts because they told me the 9000's would be stiffer than stock. I really want the MX 6 adjustable so I could just dial in the ride but they dont make them for the t-bar lift. The Cognito's sound like they may be a good choice, I want to replace my 3000's soon.

 

Avoid Rancho 9000s at all cost. You think you have front end issues with cranked TBs and stock shocks? Wait until you install the 9000s that have less travel. On top of that, they bend and even break on H3s.

They last about 90 days on my H2 and is not worth the trouble of their decent warranty change out program. More headache than it's worth.

The 9000s do provide a nice ride at first, but that does not last long once you heat them up on a few bumps or pot holes in road.

Now this year Rancho claims improvements have been made to the 9000 line. Well, the increased the bosy size on some of the rear shocks, changed the color but on the inside they reverted to a cheaper gas charged over versus the previous 9000s in which were hydraulic.

As you can tell, I have been round and round with these cheap shocks and regret wasting time and money on them. They won't even hold up 90 days in summer just driving to work and back.

 

I am not sure if anyone covered this, but does the cognito's come with the boots? Are the shock boots required? I didn't order any boots with mine so i'm worried I may need to? [&:]

 

Shock boots are not required, I dont have them on my Pro Comp's. I do think they are a good idea though, I'll put some on next time I get a chance.

 

Check out Fox shocks. I'm thinking about getting a set but they are expensive! http://www.samcofabrication.com/prod...products_id=48