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Radiator leak 2006 H3 automatic

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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
wpduffey's Avatar
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Default Radiator leak 2006 H3 automatic

We have now owned this H3 for 4 months and as cool as it may be, I see why they are no longer in business. Not meant to step on any toes but I am getting tired of working on this damn thing. It only has 80k miles on it.

Radiator is leaking, of course I see it wet on the bottom drivers side of the radiator.
I can see a slight mist of it on the bottom of the hood and the chirp of the belt can be heard. Doesn't look like a hose or water pump leaking to me.

Looks wet around the top where the aluminum and plastic are jointed but this could just be over spray.

Is this another typical H3 problem?
It a new radiator the only fix?
I can do the work myself but I am sure getting tired of working on it.
I assume all recall bets are off since its 8 years old and Hummer no longer exists!
I wonder if this is another DexCool problem. I drained that crap out of my Duramax before 50k miles. I have owned it 11 years with 210k miles and I have spent more time on this H3 in 4 months than its whole life.

Before I start tearing it down does anyone have wisdom for me?
Anything crazy to look for? What not to do?
 
Old Nov 10, 2014 | 01:51 PM
  #2  
norinco3264's Avatar
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Posts: 293
From: Ohio
Default 2006

Originally Posted by wpduffey
We have now owned this H3 for 4 months and as cool as it may be, I see why they are no longer in business. Not meant to step on any toes but I am getting tired of working on this damn thing. It only has 80k miles on it.

Radiator is leaking, of course I see it wet on the bottom drivers side of the radiator.
I can see a slight mist of it on the bottom of the hood and the chirp of the belt can be heard. Doesn't look like a hose or water pump leaking to me.

Looks wet around the top where the aluminum and plastic are jointed but this could just be over spray.

Is this another typical H3 problem?
Very common. The crack appears near the front drivers side usually. I spent under $200 for an aftermarket replacement, and followed the HOW-TO writeup on this forum. Very simple even without being a mechanic
It a new radiator the only fix?
Yes, if it's cracked, replacement is necessary
I can do the work myself but I am sure getting tired of working on it.
My 2006 hummer H3 has become a major hassle this year, and I treat mine like a baby. Barely ever off road
I assume all recall bets are off since its 8 years old and Hummer no longer exists!
I took mine in this year for the hood louver recall, got it fixed free of charge obivously. BUT the glue separated so it still rattles in the wind!


Before I start tearing it down does anyone have wisdom for me?
Anything crazy to look for? What not to do?
Front CV seals often leak.
The OEM battery terminals will cause many issues, replace them ASAP. I bought Stinger terminals, as many others on this forum have.
If you have a moonroof, be sure to clean the drains. Search the forums for a how-to.
2006 hummer H3 also has a slightly common cylinder head issue. Mine currently has a reoccuring cylinder 5 misfire.
Your TPM sensors will probably need replaced, as they are now 8 years old.
Did you get a car fax?? 2006 H3's can be very troublesome
Best of luck to you! Give an update when you can.
 
Old Nov 10, 2014 | 04:12 PM
  #3  
K0PIR's Avatar
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From: Pierre, SD
Default Expect Some Expense

I can understand your frustration. When I bought my 2006 H3 a few years ago the first thing that needed fixed was the blower. Then I realized that the shift fork was bad because it was jumping out of 4hi into 4hi lock and wouldn't go back easily. Fortunately the place I bought it from had that fixed for me. Oh, I had to buy new tires for it too. The old ones were mismatched terribly and causing problems or may have caused problems in the long run. Then I think it was the drivers window control that went out next. Not too bad to replace. I had a speaker problem in the beginning too, but that got resolved. My ignition caused me some problems (security light coming on) in the beginning too, but it hasn't in a long time. I know how to fix it if it does act up again. I had a rear pinion seal leak, but ATP AT-205 fixed that (knock on wood). Recently I had to replace the thermostat and O2 sensor. Not hard or expensive.

Overall I love driving it. Taking it off road is great and in the winter I don't think it can be beat. I drove from JH Wyoming all the way back to SD in a blizzard without a hiccup and I have driven in bad snow storms on the hwy hundreds of miles a number of times without incident. It's awesome

When I bought it I expected some expense and work though. It was a used vehicle after all and mine had around 130,000 miles on it when I got it. It's close to 153,000 miles now. I was driving today in the first snow of the year and loving it.

I hope you get yours fixed and you don't see any more problems. After I took care of the first few things mine had been very dependable.
 
Old Nov 10, 2014 | 11:08 PM
  #4  
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From: Ohio
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K0PIR , did yours ever have the cylinder misfire problem?
 
Old Nov 11, 2014 | 09:32 AM
  #5  
K0PIR's Avatar
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Posts: 120
From: Pierre, SD
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No I haven't. If you're getting a misfire code it could be an easy fix. Having this H3 has taught me not to assume the worst when a code pops up :-) The last one I had was a P0030 and just turned out to be the O2 sensor.
 
Old Nov 14, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #6  
wpduffey's Avatar
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Default New Radiator for H3 2006

Alrighty then she is cracked at the seam just like you said, all the way across the front-top of the tank and yes on the drivers side. I am not sure about putting a factory replacement back in if they had this issue but I am not going to put a cheap one in it either.
Rock Auto has one for $230 plus or minus. I notice another one that's more expensive called a PRO for $268. Any thoughts about that?
Any recommendations for the best one that maybe has the issue fixed?

How about changing out the Dex Cool the the good old green stuff?
I changed my Duramax over and had rather keep only one kind in stock! Does that make since to anyone besides me? has anyone else swapped over.
Are there any special bleeding instructions I need to follow on this engine or do I just filler up, let her run till the thermostat opens and top it off?

As always thanks for your input,
 
Old Nov 14, 2014 | 05:36 PM
  #7  
skeeter's Avatar
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Posts: 645
From: Oklahoma
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You must use dex cool. Every radiator that has a plastic tank is gonna have the same issue. I just fill mine up and run it for a while and then check it.
 
Old Nov 14, 2014 | 11:25 PM
  #8  
whylee's Avatar
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I have changed out the anti freeze many times from Dex Cool to prestone to whatever was available. Not a big deal either way, just either buy the premixed stuff, or use distilled water and mix your own. Nothing wrong using the Dex Cool. I worked at a radiator shop for years and have seen it all.
Never seen any adverse effects from using any of the brands, or from mixing them. Its all in what the manufacture recommends, its not going to make any difference in performance in what you use.
 
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